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Old 08-25-2014, 01:29 PM   #21
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Epoxy --> http://www.densona.com/SeaShield/Spl...-UW-Epoxy.aspx
That is what the big guys are running. Apparently it stands up to Methanol just fine --> http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...ht=splash+zone
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Old 08-25-2014, 03:57 PM   #22
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Pre and post heat aluminum tig is how I roll these days. I have only ever used the Devcon Ti Putty when it comes to epoxy mixes. Way too expensive compared to welding it. Time and ease of use goes to the epoxy though!

I have heard about the splash-zone stuff but never used it. Not sure that I would trust it under higher heat and chemical stress. Devcon Ti Putty is made for heat and chemical stress and I have not had any issues. Aluminum welding no issues at all, just hard to find a good welder to do it for you.
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Old 08-28-2014, 09:10 AM   #23
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The hardest part I found with the 01-03 ZETEC heads that I have recently been working on. After you open th3e throat for an 90% valve to throat ratio the back side radius into the bowl is also really poor and requires some filling as well.

I have had to basically raise the port floor and roof equally, then i ended up finding that the top of the bowl required some filling in order to level out the flow. It was almost a 90* angle from the factory. That might be OK for slower flowing econo heads. To make any power out of any 2.0L engine that is revving to 7500 RPM, a bit less of an angle would be better. The less valve angle that you can achieve by changing the ports geometry without hitting the water jackets, the better!
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Old 08-28-2014, 10:27 PM   #24
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Use the right Zetec head and you can raise the Intake port by .700 and not hit water , I cannot believe no one has found these heads yet and no I wont give the part # of it there to rare to find , I have a head I never used thats ported I will post a picture one day , its what I made the 723 HP to the wheels with

I may even sell it ported and I have the custom valves , springs , retainers and custom larger buckets from a nissan , this head will require custom cams

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Old 08-29-2014, 11:59 AM   #25
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0.7" that is impressive. I am assuming you went with a custom intake manifold. Having to move the intake ports of the manifold 0.7" would be a task with the plastic manifolds. I am still trying to tackle the issue myself..... the SVT intake is plastic and the amount that I have moved the ports is making aligning the intake ports to the head ports a wee bit of an issue. The mounting points must have to be changed.......

Can you post up any insight?

Maybe we should continue this discussion in the Zetec performance thread? or maybe start a new one on porting Zetec heads?????

Could you PM me the part number, I promise that I will not post it.... I just want to know if I can go any further with ether of the heads that I have. Not that keen on finding out the hard way.......lol I'm also not looking to steel any business or start a head porting shop. I do this for myself and am not planning on going out and buying any more 2.0L heads just to get 0.25" more port....lol
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Old 08-29-2014, 11:14 PM   #26
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I used the FR intake manifold and modified it a good bit , lots of welding and angle changing

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Old 08-30-2014, 12:08 AM   #27
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Couldn't you slot the holes on the intake and reuse the bolt hole thingy's that keep it from crushing the plastic and just put them in the newer slotted holes?


Never mind the question the angle still wouldn't be ideal and I'm not sure you can plane the mating surface of the other manifolds.
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Old 08-30-2014, 10:58 AM   #28
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Thinking they are molded into the intake plastic, destroy them to remove them??

As to the epoxy to fill holes in heads, the fuel is not the issue, we ran methanol back in the '80s on the pro stocker. The issue is shrinkage and letting go from the constant temperature cycling, the plastic and metal do not expand or contract the same at all. We used some sort of block filler to fill block to within one inch of the deck, it cost about $200 to do it back then IIRC. And that stuff showed up long term issues too, but what the funny car guys were using. It would eventually separate from the block iron.

We had to stay on top of the AMC stuff as the pushrod wall and port roof were moved quite a bit and had to be patched up with brazing and then final leaks fixed with epoxy. The heads were extremely vulnerable to cracks in the patching but you could put your fist all the way into them. The intakes had as much cross section as a big port BBC after a whopping port job. They were huge for a 360 inch motor.
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Old 08-30-2014, 11:27 AM   #29
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The metal inserts slide right out of the plastic intakes

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Old 08-30-2014, 12:57 PM   #30
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As far as shrinking and issues with heat cycles and cracking in the epoxy goes. That is why I chose to use the Devcon Aluminum or Ti Putty. It's coefficient of expansion is the closest to that of Aluminum. After 100k km I had not noticed any separation or cracking in the small amounts that I used in Honda heads. I'm not so sure about the iron heads. Haven't worked on one of them in quite a while.
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