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Old 04-21-2014, 02:38 PM   #21
takeitapart
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Just did the front control arms, shock/strut, end links, swaybar on my 04 SVT. You need to drop the subframe to get to the sway bar bushings. Can be done while on jackstands with a jack to lower the frame. Dont forget to remove the steering pinch bolt or the subframe will not come down. Also, make sure you slather the poly sway bar bushings with silicone grease or they will make all sorts of noise (learned the hard way when I had to drop the subframe a second time to lube) Good Luck. I am doing the timing belt soon.
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Old 04-21-2014, 07:12 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zxr250cc View Post
What is the preferred toe in and camber setting for a daily driver to keep from wearing out the inside of the rear tires. I am going to change the rear upper and lower links and can choose to have any setting I wish when doing alignment after that. In reading the forums I have gotten the idea that about 1 degree of camber or maybe a little less and ~.02 rear toe in and ~.02 front toe out would be a good compromise. Thoughts? Suggestions?

My original equipment 215/45/17 Continental summer performance tires lasted ~26k miles and the inside was worn out and some tread was left in the rest. I then used some Kumho (311?) summer performance tires and they had the same fate and lasted about the same mileage. My third set of tires were General high performance all weather touring tires and they had the same fate. I have been using the approximate center of the range for recommended settings for camber and toe in as I went along and clearly that setting eats the inside of the rear tires.

.
the problems with your other tires wearing out was likely due to toe and not camber, the ford "spec" is way to loose.

i'm not sure what units your measurements were in, but i usually try to run 1/8" combined maximum toe out in the front, and close to 0 toe in the rear. remember the rear toe's in under load, so you're at 0, you won't over toe in when you put a load of groceries or whatever in the back.
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Old 04-21-2014, 08:01 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by takeitapart View Post
Just did the front control arms, shock/strut, end links, swaybar on my 04 SVT. You need to drop the subframe to get to the sway bar bushings. Can be done while on jackstands with a jack to lower the frame. Dont forget to remove the steering pinch bolt or the subframe will not come down. Also, make sure you slather the poly sway bar bushings with silicone grease or they will make all sorts of noise (learned the hard way when I had to drop the subframe a second time to lube) Good Luck. I am doing the timing belt soon.
I installed my front sway bar bushings without dropping the sub-frame, it just takes the right tools to get in there. It wasn't easy, but not terribly difficult.
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Old 04-22-2014, 12:28 PM   #24
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Thanks for the info about doing the bushings. I need to do them this weekend if the weather is nice. That will finish the front of the car except for the timing belt change job. I have Teflon based silicone grease for the bushings and used it liberally on the rear sway bar bushings when I installed them.

The data for toe in or toe out is in inches and the camber settings I mentioned are in degrees. I am particularly hoping to have the inside of the rear tires NOT wear out as fast as in the past since the current tires I have are about $150 each with freight and install/balancing service. I use Tire Rack as I am sure many of you do since they have a great selection of tires. I also like the surveys and tests they show and my own purchasing experience for tire results has been mostly in line with the data they show for various tires.

I usually run around with from 50 to a 100 pounds of camping gear in the trunk so I am not going to have the same readings as an empty car, I guess. I am not sure that little weight makes much difference but it could affect readings somewhat. Since it is usually there I am ignoring the weight for it and adjusting settings to be as if they are my usual running condition, which it is.

Any well tested rear adjustment settings any of you have used that did not wear out the rear tires real fast? I would like to see a set of tires wear evenly and last more than 40k miles on this car if possible. I rotate tires every 5-6,000 miles and keep the tire pressure settings up to date monthly or so. I usually run 34 in the front and 31 in the rear.

Thanks all for suggestions...
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Old 04-23-2014, 12:39 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zxr250cc View Post
Hi, thanks for the reply about camber.

That brings up the main question: What is the preferred toe in and camber setting for a daily driver to keep from wearing out the inside of the rear tires. I am going to change the rear upper and lower links and can choose to have any setting I wish when doing alignment after that. In reading the forums I have gotten the idea that about 1 degree of camber or maybe a little less and ~.02 rear toe in and ~.02 front toe out would be a good compromise. Thoughts? Suggestions?

My original equipment 215/45/17 Continental summer performance tires lasted ~26k miles and the inside was worn out and some tread was left in the rest. I then used some Kumho (311?) summer performance tires and they had the same fate and lasted about the same mileage. My third set of tires were General high performance all weather touring tires and they had the same fate. I have been using the approximate center of the range for recommended settings for camber and toe in as I went along and clearly that setting eats the inside of the rear tires.

The Conti and Kumho tires rode like round rocks at each wheel. The General tires were great for ride, overall handling and in the rain with one glaring exception: They were easy to kill in potholes since they were polyester and nylon cord based. I went through a set of six (2 killed by potholes) in about 27k miles. I am now at ~86k miles and have changed to Continental tires again and have V rated tires with Kevlar cord this time to have tougher tires for the crap roads in Oklahoma. I also changed the tire aspect ratio and size this time to try to have a better resistance to potholes and bumps. Time will tell if this strategy works. My current tires are about 1/2 taller than the original tire size. I am using stock Ford SVT springs and the stock shock/strut set so the car is basically as new with minor small changes in parts like the urethane bushings in the rear sway bar.

I welcome advice...

cheers.
rotate tires every 3k
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Old 04-27-2014, 08:23 AM   #26
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I have used 3,000 at times in the past but lately had been doing 5-6,000 out of laziness, I guess.

Any hints about the toe in and toe out for front and rear anyone? What settings have helped your tires not be eaten on the inside of the tires on the rear?

What camber settings are most of you using?

cheers..
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Old 04-27-2014, 04:44 PM   #27
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Are you the guy that me and a couple of buddies ran into back in March at one of the shows at Fuddruckers?
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Old 04-28-2014, 04:38 AM   #28
zxr250cc
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Hi,

There is a Fuddruckers in the general Tulsa area? I have not seen one. I have been in Claremore before but not since last fall. As there are only 44 of the Screaming Yellow five doors from 2004, I think, then it is a surprise that another one is in this area.

cheers..
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Old 04-28-2014, 02:15 PM   #29
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Yeah the Fudds is at 71st and Hwy 169. There's a car show there every Tuesday and a bunch of us Focus/Fiesta guys meet up with the Mustang guys there. I'm there every week, but unfortunately not this week.
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Old 05-04-2014, 10:40 AM   #30
zxr250cc
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I have now done almost the all earlier mentioned changes except the timing belt/serpentine belt change. I haven't finished the rear link changes yet, as well. The car rides better and definitely handles better now with the updates.

I have been changing the fluids with a turkey baster over the last month. I used Valvoline Pyroil DOT 3 & 4 brake fluid and changed two bottles through the reservoir in a couple of weeks so that is fresh again. I have changed brake fluid yearly with this method since new to keep it from being old and stale.

I changed the power steering fluid with two quarts of fluid as that was original and nasty looking. I used Castrol Mercon V for that since the Ford site lists their current version of Mercon V as being Transmission and Power Steering Fluid on the label. I have found a local source for the synthetic manual transmission 75w90 fluid from Ford and will buy two quarts of that next week and change the transmission fluid next weekend. After that I am only needing to do the timing belt plus rear links and will be finished for the time being with the SVT updates for its' 10th birthday.

Everyone talks about the performance tune of the ignition system. Are you adding a tuning computer for that or having the EEPROM flashed with a new set of data to do that?

cheers..
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