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Old 04-16-2014, 04:54 PM   #21
Bills86e
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Today I put my tps back in as my ohmmeter read a changes in value. I previous has a DTC P1120, car dieing after warm-up while driving, would restart, but if I waited thirty seconds it started-drove (but not long) symtom returns, small problems, now going ballistic! (getting worse)
I broke a needle to 3/4" inserted into white, key on was idle .95v - full - 4.64v. I was able to twist the tps til it read exactly .90 idle - 4.5v full throttle. Engine running my DVM read a fluxuating .93v - .97v. I let the car idle run ten minutes, took it for drive.
It died exactly same spot as other 8 times when I thru parts at it. Took it home- put another new MAF in, car died only 6 feet from aforesaid above. Back at home TPS read .90v as before, So I do not think the gremlin is TPS.

REPLACED :
ECM & flashed by Ford
Security module
all fuses - relays
wire harness checked
fuel module
FTPS
Timing Belt-roller-tentioner
water pump
starter
alternator
DPFE
CHTS
fuel vapor solenoid
OPS
serpentine belt
PS pump
ac comp
evap canister
fuel filter
* plugs
air filter
MAF
b-cables
headlights
stoplight bulb
cam sensor
crank sensor

Dealer diagnosed - all good (5 times)
Buddies (2) Snap-on Solus scanner, Maxidas 708 scanner all reads good (WTF) I am in Hell

I have these now 4 parts on my shelf:
CoilPac w/wires
another crank sensor
TP185
fuel pressure regulator

I continue with throwing and test after each of my componets on shelf are gone. (sigh)

Last edited by Bills86e; 04-16-2014 at 09:16 PM.
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Old 04-16-2014, 05:57 PM   #22
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It's hard to make guesses without being able to check what isn't working right when it stops running right.

With a coil pack on hand, might try that next since they can give trouble when they warm up.
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Old 04-16-2014, 07:21 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bills86e View Post
I only cut thru the rind of this ford lemon. I took safety seriously before doing the deed.
I seal my removable access plates, secure with ASE screws.

Thousands of us have this engine runs good til warm then Stalling,dying issue.
Quote:
Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
It is death to simply dismiss critiquing your past work, you have already done it with the pump twice you say, so, bit you there. Simply dismissing more will be extremely funny if you later find a nicked wire in harness around your cut. But then some like to do that


With the Solus, watch Fuel Pressure and Fuel Flow.
I'd lay money on both dropping like stones just before the car dies.

You said you replaced the Fuel Pump Module and had to go back to reseal it.
Go back in there again and make sure the sock filter isn't pinched and the bucket the pump sits in can fill with fuel (suction the fuel out and see how long it takes to fill).

I'm betting that the bucket can't fill with fuel fast enough. That causes a fuel starvation situation and the car dies. If it sits overnight I bet it starts right up.
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Old 04-17-2014, 06:25 PM   #24
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Today I replaced 1 by 1 the last four components in post 21, idle 10 min, then drive.
It died at same spot all 4 times. I have no mil, so for giggles I unplugged the MAF and P0102 popped up the check engine light. My bud brought over his SO Solus during lunch and read the Fuel pressure, brake ingear- then brake & gas. His boss said not to drive the car with it plugged in. Bud showed me FP was within spec and had to leave after re-running DPFE.
I took the line off the new FPR and had wife turn key on briefly and held finger over end,
plenty of gas pressure.
I now am out of parts,

iminhell, what would cause this drop in fuel pressure you are talking about?I have both old PCM's, Dealer changed one, I never made it home driving that day.

I just removed the fuel module and bench tested it, but its working very well.

Removed the new DPFE it has a burnt smell, It has a known bad reputation for not lasting long, not throwing a CEL. I'm going back over emissions.

Happy Easter everyone!

Last edited by Bills86e; 04-18-2014 at 04:45 AM.
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Old 04-19-2014, 03:02 PM   #25
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What is the gas tank capacity (its not in my Haynes) as Tank was filled, now at 110 miles,fuel level is 1/4.
This led me to try this, I took my spare fuel regulator and capped the vac tube then bolted it on driver side of fuel rail (no schrader) put a line on it to a pressure gauge.
Running the car was 24 lbs, took it for ride, at usual spot where it previously died, it dies and pressure dropped to8 lbs. (all the way back home. An hour later I started it and back to 24 lbs. My injector pintols may be sticking once engine Hot? This fuel consumption seems excessive? (I don't know how much a 2000 SE holds). The center of my fuel rail looks discolored and its dirty.
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Old 04-19-2014, 03:57 PM   #26
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The fuel MPG seems really low. But considering you've just been putzing around with it, I would expect it to not be good.

I don't think the injectors would be the problem. It would be very strange for them to repetitively fail at the same spot multiple times. But my idea of the fuel module emptying is similarly hard to stomach. You've idle for varying times and it dies at the same spot each time. So it would seem that can't be the problem.

Ingenious method to find fuel pressure.
But this does show there is a problem with fuel pressure. It should read ~39psi at all times.
So your 24 is low. It's still enough to run the car, but not enough to do so well.
What happens is the injectors are held open a variable amount of time to get the correct Air/Fuel mixture. As pressure increases so does flow. So the injectors are held open for a shorter time. Just the converse for lower pressure.

So this puts us back to the fuel pump again. Everything seems to be coming back to it, from what I'm seeing.
Is it possible the feed line is leaking?
There is a blue clip that holds the red push clip in place as well as 2 O-rings on the end of the line (yellow and brown). ... in stock form

If you can't tell, just pack a few dark colored rags around the line and go for a test drive.
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Old 04-20-2014, 11:45 AM   #27
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I don't have the two o-rings, but however it does not leak there. I'll be getting back into the module checking flow rate ect monday after Easter. I hope I help anyone.

A city 22 mph and hwy 28 mph is reported as average.
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Old 04-21-2014, 10:40 PM   #28
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SOLVED

The cause of the problem is the fuel delivery system (low fuel pressure)
The pump itself may be bad or the fuel tubes in the fuel module have deteriorated and sprung leak(s). TRUST ME, I been there. I been both chaseing DTC codes and throwing parts! I had snipped an e-plug from a pump and a short section of the
donor car gas line where it plugs into the module top. A great help when testing in a pail of gas, powering it up, with the gauge attached. My fuel pressure test gauge has a air relief valve and a small line.

The 00 & 01 don't have those two o-rings. The 00 fuel module is twist into tank floor shoe, 01-up are springs or heavily glued to tank bottom.

Fuel modules have a regulator on the top of the lower module. I been to the pic n pull.!!! I replaced the rotted module tubes with 3/8" id Tygon.

Now that I solved this dying after warm up, the car will red line the tacometer, it has great power and FLY's.

Zoom --- zoom --- zoom!!!!!!!!!

Bills86e

Last edited by Bills86e; 04-22-2014 at 03:00 AM.
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Old 04-21-2014, 11:47 PM   #29
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Great to see you up & running again!
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