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Old 04-18-2014, 12:54 PM   #1
Danfocusman
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Cutting out under load when warm

Hi Guys,

I've searched through the threads here and tried a bunch of stuff but still no luck. Here is where I'm at:

2003 ZX5 Zetec 5 spd with 95000k

Out of the blue it started cutting out/missing on the highway, at times loses power, runs great cold, idles rough when warmed up. Engine light off when cold, comes on in flashes and eventually stays on as it comes to temperature.

At first I thought it was starving for fuel but that is definitely not the problem. I changed the fuel filter and pulled the fuel line off the engine. LOTS of fuel :)

This lead me to think it was an air/vacuum problem. Cleaned the MAF sensor, no change. When I unplug the MAF while idling the engine dies right out.

PCV valve is good as well as the elbow hose going to it.

The vacuum hose on the back of the motor is good.

The air filter is clean.

I pulled the hose off the top of the EGR and blocked it - no change which I'm told means the DPFE is ok.

Everything is closed today so I can't change the coil or plugs or wires although all have less than 15000k on them.

It is also consuming A LOT more fuel.

Any help is GREATLY appreciated!


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Old 04-18-2014, 01:34 PM   #2
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Does it get better when you let it sit for a little while (10-15mins) after bogging down?

Next time it starts bogging down when its warmed up, fill up the fuel tank and see if that makes it better for a while longer. I just had this issue and it turned out to be the fuel pump. It would eventually heat the gas, the unit would overheat and then the fun would begin.

By adding more gas, I guess it cooled it down enough for it to function properly a little longer.

Replaced the pump and it has been smooth sailing since.
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Old 04-18-2014, 01:36 PM   #3
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Thanks, I'll try that, but it's hard to believe the pump could heat the gas up that quickly. Worth a shot though.
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Old 04-18-2014, 01:45 PM   #4
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Can't check codes when everything is closed, can you check the plugs to see if it's getting too much fuel?

Engine temp sensor problem could cause this, but would show by the gauge not coming up to normal.

I can think of other possibilities, but not how to test easily. Would want to confirm running too rich warm first.
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Old 04-18-2014, 02:04 PM   #5
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Engine temp is completely normal.
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Old 04-18-2014, 03:10 PM   #6
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insureable gremlin

Quote:
Originally Posted by Danfocusman View Post
Engine temp is completely normal.
I have same problem.I have changed all sensors ect and the coilpak & wires.
So, that said is a step you might go backwards on. Bill

I just went thru my emmisions - no notta. You are not alone!
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Old 04-19-2014, 11:29 PM   #7
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So still haven't solved it but I have noticed the temp gauge fluctuates between normal and cold. Could it be the ECT sensor?
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Old 04-20-2014, 07:38 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danfocusman View Post
So still haven't solved it but I have noticed the temp gauge fluctuates between normal and cold. Could it be the ECT sensor?
Check your coolant level, then use the electronic odometer trick to observe your engine temp readout while driving. In an engine where everything is working correctly, the temp doesn't fluctuate quickly. If you see rapid jumps or drops, that indicates a problem with the sensor. However, you might want to check the wiring to the sensor itself because in the past bad sensor problems have always shown extreme jumps to high temps- not down to cold. That would tell me that perhaps you have a problem with the wiring to the sensor.
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Old 04-20-2014, 07:53 AM   #9
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Stumble 2014
2000 green ford focus SE DOHC Automatic Zetec I been throwing parts, testing after each one. Nodda!
Fuel pressure must be 39 lbs.
I went to my pic-n-pull and got a used fuel pressue regulator, its on passenger side of fuel rail. I have a block off plate on the driver side and after capping the vacuum nipple (My fuel rail end does not have the schrader valve capped on the driver end)
I bolted it on with a 5/16" id 7' long clear tube from home depot and attached. I had 24 lbs
at idle and went for a drive with the zip tied on gauge in my handand where my car usually died, it did die again as my pressure went to almost nothing. It limped me home, after it did restart, but again ran poorly. I have an 8" x 8" access panel under the rear passenger seat seat, centered on the rubber floor grommet, so I plan on getting a new fuel module, air chucking the supply. I don't know why my pump passed the electrical pressure test on the dealer & my buddy's scan tools, but somehow it did, mis-leading us all. Now I think this 2000 ford focus engine stalling after warm will be solved!
I believe my failed fuel delivery system failure caused the PCM false DTC codes with and without turning on the CEL/MIL.
Now I have an ingenious way of checking my next fuel pump's pressure manually, after installation.
Happy Easter!

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Old 04-20-2014, 09:13 AM   #10
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Glad you found your problem. :)
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