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Old 11-26-2013, 11:20 PM   #21
FordFocus2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whynotthinkwhynot View Post
Try this with a warmed engine- disconnect negative battery terminal. Wait 5 mins, reconnect, start engine without touching the accelerator. The idle might be slightly high, but that's ok, allow the engine to idle for 5-6 mins without touching the accelerator. If you touch the accelerator, you will reset the test. This is a 5 minute timed test during which you'll see the idle fluctuate slightly. When the test is done, the idle will drop to where it should be which is around 700.
Ok I tried this this arvo tried it twice and all it did was idle as normal revs didn't move stayed at 800/900rpms to be more spot on the last notch under 1000rpm's.

It almost cut out this morning but recovered to 1000+rpm's to warm up.

There's nothing wrong with the way this car idles now with this latest IAC nice and smooth and steady. It's just that cold start issue and as originally stated started the same time I replaced the IAC from the get go.
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Old 11-27-2013, 10:14 AM   #22
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sorry that the new part didn't fix that problem. It is some sort of latching issue that gets resolved on the second start. Do you have a scan tool available to you? If so, you could do a before-and-after scan and then use process of elimination to see what sensor is reading differently on the second start. For example, I can imagine a dirty/failing EGR valve that is stuck open on the first start, and then it closing for the second start.

If you don't have a scan tool, you can use the poor man's version in your LCD odometer. Start the engine with the odometer in test mode and push the odometer button to cycle thru the various modes; I don't recall all of the parameters that it lists. To learn about that, click the "Stickied Threads" link at the top of this forum, and then click the "Complete HOW TO" link. Then, scroll down and click "Focus Test Mode".
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Old 11-28-2013, 02:57 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by my_beautious_ZX3 View Post
sorry that the new part didn't fix that problem. It is some sort of latching issue that gets resolved on the second start. Do you have a scan tool available to you? If so, you could do a before-and-after scan and then use process of elimination to see what sensor is reading differently on the second start. For example, I can imagine a dirty/failing EGR valve that is stuck open on the first start, and then it closing for the second start.

If you don't have a scan tool, you can use the poor man's version in your LCD odometer. Start the engine with the odometer in test mode and push the odometer button to cycle thru the various modes; I don't recall all of the parameters that it lists. To learn about that, click the "Stickied Threads" link at the top of this forum, and then click the "Complete HOW TO" link. Then, scroll down and click "Focus Test Mode".
The EGR is new as well but this issue was present before it was replaced crank case houses have also been replaced.

Started the car today and it wasn't that bad but should be better then that.
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Old 11-29-2013, 12:06 AM   #24
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Video Clip of the start issue.

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Old 11-29-2013, 11:27 AM   #25
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thanks for the video. It's behaving exactly as you described.

have you tried starting it with the A/C on? That always worked for me in diagnosing the IAC.

1. turn key to ACC or On (whatever is the final detente on your car before it engages the starter motor)
2. turn air-conditioning on (verify that LED turns on) and turn fan switch to "1" (low)
3. start engine
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Old 11-29-2013, 08:15 PM   #26
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Just a guess. Makes me wonder if fuel pressure drops on first start causing it to drop out. Would be interesting if you can get a scanner on it to monitor. Also IAT and ECT could be of interest to observe.
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Old 12-02-2013, 05:17 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by my_beautious_ZX3 View Post
thanks for the video. It's behaving exactly as you described.

have you tried starting it with the A/C on? That always worked for me in diagnosing the IAC.

1. turn key to ACC or On (whatever is the final detente on your car before it engages the starter motor)
2. turn air-conditioning on (verify that LED turns on) and turn fan switch to "1" (low)
3. start engine
Ok tried this this morning still started the same and also discovered that my air con no longer works ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by mmurphy View Post
Just a guess. Makes me wonder if fuel pressure drops on first start causing it to drop out. Would be interesting if you can get a scanner on it to monitor. Also IAT and ECT could be of interest to observe.
I don't think it is as it started when I replaced the IAC the first time.

Not able to get a scanning tool and Mechanics around here will ask for labour so sod them for now.
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Old 02-08-2014, 05:19 PM   #28
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Just an update I got my hands on a new Fuel Pressure Regulator bad news is it has made it worse not better. When I start from cold it idles rough till it warms up a little. Before the change the first start would either start the engine and almost stall or would stall the engine but start the second time it would just start and then run as normal.

So from every time I try to change a part on this car with a new part all I am doing is making it worse and not better. Not Happy.
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Old 03-25-2014, 09:53 PM   #29
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New Update.

Problem still there no change the colder the weather the worse it is.

Been to a mechanic fuel pump strong fuel filter replaced found the injectors were faulty so replaced fuel injectors everything else checked out after that drives allot better.

BUT

Still same issue with first cold start of the morning or day.

Going back to the mechanic tomorrow afternoon so he can check it the next morning etc.
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Old 03-31-2014, 04:42 AM   #30
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Last Update.......

Problem has been solved and repaird and car is running like new.

The fault was finally tracked down to the CHT Sensor or Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor first we took the old one out cleaned it up and then polished up like it was new again put it back in and waited till early morning and BANG started straight up just over 1000rpm stayed there for a little and then very slowly came down in rpm's as she warmed up no more running like a pig.

I then ordered a new CHT Sensor and replaced the old with new.

It is located on the Cyclinder Head under the Intake Manifold were the Alternator is a real pain in the butt to get to and repalce.

Here is a Youtube Vid from a guy in the US with the same issue and he shows were it is located and how he replaced his.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zcs2oWiZ07Q

I have also attached and image of the CHT Sensor.

So if yours is doing the same as mine and you have gone through all the other motions this might be you last item to replace it cost me $104.00AU but it was worth it.
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