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Old 11-20-2013, 09:23 AM   #1
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Valve Tolerances on an Interference zetec?

I know the valves and lifters need to be in spec to the cams,
if they are out, you can order lash caps and other things, or drill out your lifters.
The distance between the bottom of your cam lobe, and the valve lifter if i recall is suppose to be-
Exhaust- .27mm -.33mm
Intake- .11mm -.18mm

I just got a valve job done on my head, and my exhaust valves measure a solid .33-.38 all the way across the board, and I know .33 is in spec, but do I SEROUSLY have to worry about .38? Is it going to hit the piston with that extra teeny tiny miniscule not even a hair thick difference? Or is this distance (between lobe and lifter) just effecting how long they are open, and if I have valve tick?
THe real problem is my intake side, the specs are way off. But again I am wondering how big of deal it is. If my car is just going to tick, then I dont really care, but obviously if the valve is going to hit the piston because these are so far off, thennnnn I need to fix it.
my intake valves are all .33-38 as well (between lobe and lifter) when they are suppose to be .11mm - .18mm

How much should I be worrying about it? Are we talking ticking or ruining another engine?


Dont worry about my signature btw-------, thats for a different car, this focus is being resold.


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Old 11-20-2013, 10:11 AM   #2
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Did you measure all of your buckets before re-assembly? If you did, you could play with the numbers and swap buckets between intake and exhaust sides and see whether youd be within spec.

Otherwise its see if people parting out or have done engine rebuilds have spares you could buy or call steve.

Did you replace the valves with this valve job? typically due to the removal of material in the valve seat, the clearances are tighter than you are showing and a quick blast of material off of the valve stem tip would get them within spec. But since this is not your case...hmm

IIRC, you can buy shims, but its better to buy/find the bigger buckets themselves.
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Old 11-20-2013, 02:20 PM   #3
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You need to keep the lash with in the specs called for , to much ticking will set off the knock sensor to pull timing which is bad , beat the tips of the valves / buckets and cause issues
To tight can burn a valve

There are no shims and nothing you can drill or machine

Your best bet is to take the head back apart and move the buckets around and cut the tips of the valve to gets things to work right , if the valve job was dont right all your valves should now be taller so cutting them to set your valve lash is easy and no need to buy any new buckets

Tom
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Old 11-20-2013, 08:38 PM   #4
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So I'm guessing the measurements given up top are the correct ones?
Someone on another forum told me:
Intake .21-.29mm
Exhaust .32-.40mm

Guess I gotta call the machine shop
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Old 11-20-2013, 10:54 PM   #5
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i put in used valves from a different svt, did not reseat, just new seals, guides and retainers.
How can I actually measure the buckets? with a Micrometer?
Do i need a screw type micrometer? Where can I get one?
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Old 11-21-2013, 05:08 PM   #6
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Old 11-21-2013, 10:51 PM   #7
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You cant just take used valves and put them in another head , you need to take it to a machine shop and get them to do a valve job and have them set up the buckets before the assemble the head
If you sat with what you have chances are you will be pulling it back apart and doing the valve job anyway

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Old 11-25-2013, 08:03 AM   #8
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Like he says absolutely you cannot just drop other valves in with no reseating, all valve run in differently from each other. simply swapping out they will NOT seal and engine runs like crap.

Valves hit pistons when they are too TIGHT, too loose they get more clearance. Think it out..................you lose lift with more clearance.
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