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Old 11-04-2013, 10:48 AM   #91
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Originally Posted by drwiggapeterson View Post
How did you guys adjust your needles?!!!! I want to fix mine example. When there is no key in the Ignition everything is fine all of them are where they should be . But once I start to turn on my car. The rpm's are already at 1,000 and I'm just sitting in my driveway, my mph is 4 miles faster then I am actually going my gas gauge is completely messed up. And so is my tempt gauge anyone have any tips on how to get it back to normal !??
Trial and error.

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Originally Posted by bama_focus View Post
Are the red ST needles interchangeable with the non-ST? If so would the installation require recalibration of the gauage needles? Im not a huge fan of the baby blue needles I have now.
Yes and yes.
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Old 11-04-2013, 02:36 PM   #92
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where did you happen to get the colored gauge backgronds
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Old 11-04-2013, 03:14 PM   #93
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I mentioned it in the 9th post.
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Old 11-04-2013, 03:58 PM   #94
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Looks great!

I'd like one with 150mph as the 'top' reading instead of just a line (Like the 2012 Focus's, I think?). Dunno why, I just like that better, instead of 140 and a line following.
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Old 11-04-2013, 05:05 PM   #95
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ya I got it thanks
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Old 11-06-2013, 10:12 AM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drwiggapeterson View Post
How did you guys adjust your needles?!!!! I want to fix mine example. When there is no key in the Ignition everything is fine all of them are where they should be . But once I start to turn on my car. The rpm's are already at 1,000 and I'm just sitting in my driveway, my mph is 4 miles faster then I am actually going my gas gauge is completely messed up. And so is my tempt gauge anyone have any tips on how to get it back to normal !??


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To get it back to normal is going to be very hard. For RPM's you should find what most cars similar to yours idle at and adjust it. For fuel, maybe fill it up all the way and then adjust that the needle to F. For Temp, just wait until your car has been sitting for awhile and move it back to where it should be.

Like a previous poster said, a lot of trail and error.

This is the dangerous part of changing your gauges. I did mine on a previous car I had and used a marker to mark on the glass where the needles were at idle and at a low speed (I used like 20mph I think). I think lifted the needles straight up and when I put them back on put them straight down.

Then I adjusted the ones that needed it accordingly per idle and verified it going the same speed.

Not sure if this is the "right way" to do it, but it worked fine for me. However, the risk of screwing up your gauges is pretty high. A friend of mine had to get a whole new gauge set in his car. It's the reason I won't be doing this again. Just not worth it IMO.

But to each his own. If you have the patience and the time, more power to you friend!
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Old 11-06-2013, 10:27 AM   #97
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Go into the "secret menu" to see your actual RPM and Speed. Adjust them to that. It's easier if you set your cruise to something before hand, like say 40, and then write down what your RPM are at that speed. Then when you go back to adjust them, set the cruise back to 40 and you should know where the RPM should be. You probably need a passenger to help with all this. It's not safe to do yourself.

Coolant you can make a mark, it always goes to the same spot when warm. Fill up your gas tank, and make a mark for that as well.
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Old 11-07-2013, 05:44 AM   #98
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DO NOT fill your tank when adjusting the gas gauge. When the tank is full (full, as in when you fill the tank at the pump until the pump clicks off), the needle goes past the full mark.

Some ways to adjust the needles if you messed up:

To test the speed, set your cruise control (the Mph/KMh) will show) and drive on a flat stretch of road and then you can compare speed to actual indicated.

Fuel gauge - if you know it is off, you can wait until the orange fuel low light comes on (on a level road) and then you will know it is at 1/8th tank.

Coolant - When fully warmed up, the needle should be right in the middle of the gauge.

RPMs ... well that's a bit tricky if you don't have something like a Scangauge. But at idle, when warmed up should be around 750 rpms. That's why I suggest before you remove your gauges for the 1st time, you let the car warm up and take note of the RPM's with the car in park at idle.

Last edited by Pennut; 11-07-2013 at 05:52 AM. Reason: add text
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Old 11-07-2013, 07:48 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pennut View Post
DO NOT fill your tank when adjusting the gas gauge. When the tank is full (full, as in when you fill the tank at the pump until the pump clicks off), the needle goes past the full mark.

Some ways to adjust the needles if you messed up:

To test the speed, set your cruise control (the Mph/KMh) will show) and drive on a flat stretch of road and then you can compare speed to actual indicated.

Fuel gauge - if you know it is off, you can wait until the orange fuel low light comes on (on a level road) and then you will know it is at 1/8th tank.

Coolant - When fully warmed up, the needle should be right in the middle of the gauge.

RPMs ... well that's a bit tricky if you don't have something like a Scangauge. But at idle, when warmed up should be around 750 rpms. That's why I suggest before you remove your gauges for the 1st time, you let the car warm up and take note of the RPM's with the car in park at idle.
I did it this way and had no problem with it. But that's just me. I'm not sure needles really go past F though, at least the ones in my Jeep, Firebird, and Focus don't.

They do however stay at F longer, but that's designed that way and controlled by the car. They stay at F longer so you'll think you get better fuel mileage, then when it gets to a certain point the needles moves quicker.
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Old 12-23-2013, 09:05 PM   #100
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Sweet! Now I can install these-


I like your arrows.
Any pics of them installed?

Also, has anyone installed the ST needles?
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