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Old 10-21-2013, 10:51 PM   #11
iminhell
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I think something got lost in here ...


If the steering wheel isn't straight with the wheels, you adjust the tie rods to center the steering wheel (or wheels depending on your viewpoint).

Everything else talked about has to do after that process has taken place.
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Old 10-21-2013, 10:58 PM   #12
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Yeah, your right about that. I was only commenting on the caster being off and what could cause that. I guess we should read the thread more carefully, I know I speed read them sometimes lol
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Old 10-22-2013, 06:34 AM   #13
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ok so if the steering wheel is cocked but the wheels arent?
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Old 10-22-2013, 06:39 AM   #14
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yeah I have when the car was almost new but from what I remember this didnt happen when i got the car back. This was at a little over 30,000 now I at 100,000 plus
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Old 10-22-2013, 07:53 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badazz2010focus View Post
ok so if the steering wheel is cocked but the wheels arent?

Tie rod adjustment.
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Old 10-22-2013, 04:17 PM   #16
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ok will do :)
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Old 10-22-2013, 04:28 PM   #17
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so what the right tie rod is in to far, but wait how'd it go out of spec?
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Old 10-23-2013, 08:32 AM   #18
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While he's correct saying you adjust tie rods there is more to it than that. If one side tie threads are showing a lot more than other side you have other issues (subframe align or bent parts) that could even be dangerous to you. Not to mention that you seem to be getting lost already in the adjustment process.

You adjust the ties for centering of steering wheel, but NOT for wheels straight ahead per se, rather to be at the center of the caster lock of both sides interfering with each other, or to the novice, the point at which the wheel seems to stay put, it is not fighting you to go either way. That may not necessarily be with the wheels straight ahead and then indicates other issues again. Proper align has the caster lock happening right at wheel straight ahead.

Far better to take car to get it aligned, but the subframe if questionable needs to be aligned first.

You can actually pick up or lose a small amount of caster depending on where you bolt the LCA down at, it can be twisted forward or rearward at the holes for slight change. Any in/out of bolt holes could help/hinder camber as well as how far the strut comes down into knuckle, these limit I think but I used to make slight changes in Tempo camber doing that as well as sliding strut top in/out in the hole slack.

I align my own cars with no machine, after front toe is set by measurement and lineshot from back wheels I then drive on varied surfaces and custom fit the tie rod settings left/right to make steering wheel neutral of load and centered on most surfaces to take into account road crown variance on my most commonly traveled roads. Of course a lot more to it than that but the basic idea.
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Old 10-23-2013, 09:28 AM   #19
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If this doesn't make it crystal clear I'm not sure what else to do.

Stock car, toe is adjusted by tie rods in the front, exciter bolts in the rear forward control arms.
Front camber and caster are adjusted by the top mount of the strut when adjustable parts are installed and rear camber is adjusted by control arms when they are installed.

These cars do not have factory adjustable caster/camber. You will need to buy aftermarket adjustable parts.

If your steering wheel is at full-lock and the wheels are not turned, you're done. The car is broken. Go home.
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Old 10-23-2013, 12:26 PM   #20
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How are you at 100,000 when I met you you were at like 78k and that was only three months ago! Anywho. When my truck had this same issue, an alignment was all I needed. Take it to another shop, your current shop is not doing what it needs to do. And if its that same HORRENDOUS shop you took me to, you should be ashamed of yourself. A bunch of monkeys they were.
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