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Old 08-17-2013, 01:57 PM   #11
Bonesacked
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A hub puller or a slide hammer is needed to get the drums off, I seriously doubt you could pull them off with hand power alone. You could rent either one of those tools for free from most auto parts stores. I also strongly recommend you adjust the parking brake as loose as it will go to give the cable a lot of slack to make sure the shoes are fully retracted.

One of my drums was completely seized to the spindle and the other caused the bearing to shatter when it was pulled off, but my car is over 13 years old and never had a rear brake job before that. My pads were still in acceptable condition after over 135k miles and 2 owners.

Make sure you use a torque wrench, preferably a metric one, to tighten the spindle nut to the EXACT specification while simultaneously turning the drum in the opposite direction, 235 Nm or 173 lb-ft. DO NOT use an impact gun!!!
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Old 08-17-2013, 02:48 PM   #12
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^^ why metric? 173ft-lbs is 234.56Nm. also you generally cant over tighten if you tighten to 180 or 185 ft-lbs then your not going to have any problems. My TQ wrench only went up to 150 so after clicking on that I use the brake bar and tightened it down some more about 1/8th of a turn or so. figure that's good.
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Old 08-17-2013, 04:02 PM   #13
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I use metric because the car is metric and so are it's specifications, plus I'm a bit eurotrash and think it's a much better and easier system of measurement. I'm probably like the only person in this country who owns metric torque wrenches LOL.
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Old 09-14-2013, 12:39 AM   #14
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Ok i just went through hell just to replace the rear bearings and shoes on my 2006 wagon.

For a 7 year old car things sure were awefully rusty and crusty in there....

ok so first thing...the drum wont come off the hub.

Borrowed puller tool from auto parts store - nearly stripped the threads on the puller. still wont budge.

removed 3 of the 4 spindle retaining bolts. One so rusty it snapped, same on other side. got the whole mess off the car but still had to get the drum off to replace bearing.

I used a 10 ton shop press. got to 5 tons and sprung a leak...tightened all down.

took 7-8 tons of pressure to pop that spindle out of the drum! it was a deafening loud bang.

the bearing had really seized onto the spindle badly - yet i found very little signs of corrosion on the spindle itself. Puzzling.

in the process i ripped the ABS sensor - theres another $60...fffffuuuuuuuuu.

went to replace abs sensor - sensor bolt rusted - head snapped off...ffffuuuuuuuuu

managed to grind 2 flats, torch it then wd-40 got a bite on the shaft and got the sensor bolt off. the other side same thing, snapped but not enough bolt stock to get a bite.

Had to drill out the abs sensor bolt and tap new threads....

Just in case you lost count - that's 4 bolts with snapped heads and a ripped abs sensor so far.

on to re-assembly:

pressed the new bearings in.

had to drill out 1 spindle mount bolt on each spindle and tap threads in a new hole about 1/4 inch offset from the original bolt location, then had to grind slots in everything the spindle goes through in order to make it work.

got everything installed, tightened nuts with a breaker bar.....ruined a wheel bearing in 3 days.

My own fault - did not observe torque spec: 173 ft lbs AND ROTATE DRUMS WHILE TIGHTENING.

I think i must have UNDERTORQUED the hub nuts, cuz when i borrowed a torque wrench and went to 173 ft lbs it was way tighter than i had originally done with my breaker bar - WORD OF WARNING TO ALL - FOLLOW THE TORQUE SPEC OR SUFFER THE CONSEQUENCES.

this has taken up nearly 3 days of my time - that's lost work cuz i'm self employed.

In hindsight, i should have just ordered new spindles & hubs when i saw all that rust. Live and learn. Also i'm in Canada so the parts are a lot more expensive here, even if i order from USA due to brokerage fees.
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Old 09-14-2013, 09:23 AM   #15
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People... Why are you having to change your brakes???? my 2001 with 160k+ miles of heavy and aggressive driving still had 30-40% of pad life left. Why are you changing the shoes?

mickeyaaaa, were you doing it because you need new wheel bearings?
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Old 09-14-2013, 10:30 AM   #16
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Yep, i needed to do the wheel bearings so i figured with 180,000kms on it it might need new shoes...i could have left them for another 30-40,000kms or so but they were so rusty i felt better just replacing them.
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Old 10-01-2013, 03:02 PM   #17
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I think some people are mistaking bad bearings with cheap tires. I almost made the same mistake with my 88 325is. Once I got a good set of tires, the car became much quieter, the wheel bearing noise went away, and my mileage improved slightly

Last summer when my GF and I bought my MIL a 2011 Sonata with a mere 30kms on the odometer, the car sounded like it had a bad rear wheel bearing on the test drive. The following morning I took the car in for a set of tires and the car became so much quieter and nicer to drive.

Tires make the difference between a not-so-good car and a great car!
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Old 10-04-2013, 05:16 AM   #18
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Glad I don't live up north, I have no trouble getting bearings in or out on mine, I never use a big press to do it either.
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