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Old 07-22-2013, 07:59 PM   #11
rent
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I didn't take either loose when I did mine and had no issue with over/under advancement. Of course after the tensioner failed, the head was rebuilt and we had to.

If you take them loose, I believe the torque spec is 80 ft/lbs for the intake cam and 50 for the exhaust. You'll need someone else unless you're a body builder to tighten them.
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Old 07-22-2013, 08:47 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1turbofocus View Post
I don NOT agree on loosening the intake cam bolt , no reason to take it loose , I never do and hit the SVT in spec 9 out of 10 times by NOT taking the Intake gear loose from the cam

Tom

Well by my math that's a 10% error ratio ... which is about the average of who posts here asking for timing help I'd guess.

Take 'em all loose and you now have 0% error ratio.
Like I've said in the past, yes it can be done W/O taking anything loose. But that's all based on experience and understanding. I give advice as if someone has never worked on the car and in a manner where no mistakes can be made. (or that is the goal I strive for)


80ft/lbs, bodybuilder ... I must be the Hulk then being I can twist off most any bolt on a car.
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Old 07-23-2013, 06:15 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iminhell View Post
Well by my math that's a 10% error ratio ... which is about the average of who posts here asking for timing help I'd guess.

Take 'em all loose and you now have 0% error ratio.
Like I've said in the past, yes it can be done W/O taking anything loose. But that's all based on experience and understanding. I give advice as if someone has never worked on the car and in a manner where no mistakes can be made. (or that is the goal I strive for)


80ft/lbs, bodybuilder ... I must be the Hulk then being I can twist off most any bolt on a car.
Its not about taking them off, I was able to do that. Its about tightening them again and keeping the accuracy of the timing. I haven't done this nearly as much as others though, so I will defer to anyone with more experience.
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Old 07-27-2013, 11:31 AM   #14
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It can be done correctly without loosening the cam pulleys. However, IF you are in a hurry or are not fastidiously accurate with your work it won't happen. You MUST use the cam and crank locks and make sure the crank does not turn when you put on the belt.

Here's the trick: When you have the old belt off you must do either 1. leave it overnight so as much oil as possible drains from the VVT unit or 2. remove the oil valve/solenoid then gently jog the VVT back and forth without moving the intake cam (for the same purpose) I did the second and had zero problems with static alignment and no CEL.

Remember: the factory manual comes from engineers, not mechanics and is sometimes written with quick service time in mind - the dealer makes more $ and the customer gets the car back sooner. The risk of a come-back for a CEL or letting it sit overnight is not helpful in either case.
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