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Old 06-10-2013, 06:20 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sapperstang View Post
About to do this. Have a question: do I need just the bearings? On RockAuto I see where they sell the bearing but there is no mention if the ring or anything else comes with it. Amazon sells a kit that includes the hub which I don't believe I need to change. Thanks.
You might get lucky, but some folks struggle to get the race separated from the old hub. Some hubs are molded fatter than other's, making it impossible to grab the race lip with a puller. This leads to cutting and grinding headaches. If the hub is bent or the spline is damaged or worn, new is obviously better. The kit with hub costs $20 more but it simplifies the job, reducing uncertainty and manhrs in all cases. I'd rather not find out I need a hub after teardown then have to pay top dollar for one at a dealer. If you are in the rust belt with 5+yo Focus, good luck removing the strut pinch bolts and figure on a dealer visit to buy new ones.
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Old 06-10-2013, 06:42 PM   #22
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Great info & pics! I'm subscribing... mine are due soon! Rep'd!
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Old 06-12-2013, 12:42 AM   #23
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Timken part number for the whole kit which includes the flange is HA590263K. I ordered them from rock auto for just under $50/ea. Over here, a bearing by itself would have cost me $60-70. The Timken kit is high quality as one would expect. I did a lot of internet research before I finally confirmed that Euro- and US-spec cars use the same bearings.
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Old 06-28-2013, 10:24 PM   #24
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can anyone recommend a cheap drift of the proper diameter to press against the outer race of the new bearing to press it in the hub? I noticed the biggest metric socket in my 3/4" drive socket set is a bit too small.

The bearing outer race surface is quite thin, so the OD of this drift must about 2.7 to 2.8 inches. If you use the old bearing outer race as the drift to press the new bearing in, it may get stuck in the hub. I guess you could get it out with some fiddling, since it'd only go in as deep as the circlip groove. Maybe I'll just grind the OD of the old bearing down a bit with grinding wheel so it doesn't have interference fit.
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Old 06-28-2013, 10:28 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Giraffe View Post
Timken part number for the whole kit which includes the flange is HA590263K. I ordered them from rock auto for just under $50/ea. Over here, a bearing by itself would have cost me $60-70. The Timken kit is high quality as one would expect. I did a lot of internet research before I finally confirmed that Euro- and US-spec cars use the same bearings.
I tried to provide the mfr name for the bearing sold by Timken, but the forum thinks it's a slur. It is the german bearing mfr F-A-G who supplies BMW with all their wheel bearings. The are good quality, but I must say BMW wheel bearings are nothing to brag about. They always seem to go bad in under 100K mi , but maybe that's to be expected when you're turning higher G corners all the time.

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Old 06-30-2013, 10:12 AM   #26
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Lscman - go ahead & use the old bearing shell as a drift, it's a common procedure to get exactly the right size.

Wouldn't grind it down any, since you want that outside area to do most of the work.

Not hard to remove when 'stuck" after pressing, so little is in the "hole" that a light sideways tap is all that's needed to release it.

Luck!
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Old 07-05-2013, 09:13 AM   #27
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will do, thanks
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Old 07-06-2013, 02:45 PM   #28
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Cool write up! I remember doing this to a customers Focus a while ago at work. You're right about that rust belt thing. I had to get a couple grade 8 bolts to replace the BJ pinch bolts on the LCA. :/ I'm gonna send a link of this over to my buddy, who's struggling with is but refuses to let me help... lol.
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Old 07-08-2013, 11:37 PM   #29
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I used the original bearing as a drift to press the new bearing OD shell into the spindle. The hole in the spindle is not press fit sized on the inboard side of the retaining circlip. It is larger than necessary so the drift does not get stuck at all.

Also I'd like to state that my 2007 bearing and hub were easily pressed out with my $120 10 ton hydraulic press. I'm sure some folks with 10yr old rusted cars may need a 15 or 20 ton press, but mine was not the least bit rusty on the od or id of the bearing shell. This, despite running the car every winter on salted roads.
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Old 07-10-2013, 01:29 PM   #30
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I noticed that aftermarket bearings for '00-'07 Ford Focus come with end seals in varying colors. Also I noticed that Ford sells two front bearings, one for ABS cars and one for no ABS. Aftermarket bearings don't specify ABS or not, so I am guessing they are all ABS-ready. However that might not be true!

The Timken bearings come with a red seal on one side and black on the other side. TCZX3's fine write-up for an ABS car shows black seal inward toward the circlip. This worked for him so the orientation was obviously correct, but unfortunately, there is no mention of the bearing manufacturer used.

I sure hope the rule of thumb that "the black seal points inward, toward the transmission halfshaft, circlip and ABS sensor" is true for Timken!! The bearing manufacturers don't seem to provide this information, so it's a bit of a potshoot.
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