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Old 06-17-2013, 07:52 AM   #1
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Changed head gasket now won't start.

I just changed the head gasket on my brothers 2001 focus lx with a 2.0 spi. Got everything put back together but now it won't start. First can someone confirm I have the firing order correct? The coil pack sits at an angle on the side of the motor like a diamond. If looking at it from the driver side fender there is a top, bottom, left and right . I haveit right is cyl 1 left is cyl 2 bottom is cyl 3 and top is cyl 4.

Assuming that's correct I believe is a fuel problem. When turning the key on we do not hear the fuel pump prime. We tried the switch in the passenger kick panel but it still doesn't start.

When we took it apart we were careful not to turn the cam gear at all so it wouldn't be out of time. When it wouldn't start we sprayed a little break cleaner(didnt have any starter fluid) into the throttle body with the peddle fully pressed. We were trying to see if it would fire. Instead of firing it backfired. That had me puzzled because doesn't that mean it was exposed to spark? That would mean the intake valve was open when the plug fired. Right? If that's what's happening then either the plug wires are wrong or the timing is off.

I need some help from people more experienced with this car.


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Old 06-17-2013, 09:30 AM   #2
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Correct...If it backfired it is out of time. I don't have an SPI so I can't check the coil for you. I would check that first, but the timing is probably off.
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Old 06-17-2013, 09:35 AM   #3
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4 1 3 2 ...starting at the top of the diamond and going clockwise according to the pic. in the manual ( if you can trust that . LOL)... hopefully someone with a SPI will chime in to verify.
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Old 06-17-2013, 10:49 AM   #4
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So you didn't put the engine in TDC? and re-verified it was in TDC before and after re-applying the timing belt? You just "Made sure not to move it"???

Okay... if the spark plugs check out, then chances are the engine it's self is out of time... Because it doesn't sound like you did it right...

So take out all of the spark plugs and use a wrench to turn the crack pully. Until the timing marks on the bottom are alined, then verify the timing marks on the cam pulley are alined, if not you'll have to re-time the engine...

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Old 06-17-2013, 02:00 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by viney266 View Post
4 1 3 2 ...starting at the top of the diamond and going clockwise according to the pic. in the manual ( if you can trust that . LOL)... hopefully someone with a SPI will chime in to verify.
That's how I have it.

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So you didn't put the engine in TDC? and re-verified it was in TDC before and after re-applying the timing belt? You just "Made sure not to move it"???

Okay... if the spark plugs check out, then chances are the engine it's self is out of time... Because it doesn't sound like you did it right...

So take out all of the spark plugs and use a wrench to turn the crack pully. Until the timing marks on the bottom are alined, then verify the timing marks on the cam pulley are alined, if not you'll have to re-time the engine...

No I didn't. I forgot to align the pullys during teardown

As long as the pullys are aligned will it be in time? Do I need to make sure #1 is at TDC and both valves are closed? Basically im asking if both pullys are aligned can it be like one rotation out of time or something?

My cheap a** brother refuses to buy a repair manual for some reason
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Old 06-17-2013, 02:08 PM   #6
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Yep. remove your tensioner and belt, align the marks re-install the tensioner, slide the belt on without turning off kelter, recheck the marks, and redo if needed... Wouldn't hurt to check the valves I guess... it's easier with a second pair of hands...

Install the timing belt counter clockwise starting at the crank pully. acrossed the sprocket over the tentioner, ect.

I got all 3 manuals off of ebay for $38 + $14 shipping used it excellent condition, of course I stalked prices for about a month... But still
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Old 06-17-2013, 02:27 PM   #7
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Does the crank have a large nut on the end of it or do I just use a breaker bar or something?
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Old 06-17-2013, 02:39 PM   #8
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Both really, you can use the harmonic balancer bolt with the harmonic balance still on to turn the crank (It's that pully that goes over the crank timing sprocket that goes on the serpentine belt), you'll see what I mean when you get under there.

It's best to remove the passenger side wheel and inner splash guard to get to the crank pullys.

I'd look on youtube for a tutorial, or find someone with experience changing timing belts, it's not hard, it's just not something you want to mess up...

Also, now is a good time to ask, did you re-use the head bolts? If so I'd change them, I've seen a few threads on here where the head gasket started leak from not replacing the head bolts... Also make sure they are at proper tourqe, If I am reading the tourqe chart right then,

1) tighten all bolts to 11 ft-lb
2) tighten all bolts to 30 ft-lb
3) turn all head bolts 90 degrees

Doing the outer ones first... Maybe someone could chime in a verify I read that right?
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Old 06-17-2013, 02:50 PM   #9
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When checking it, remember that even if right there's one position that's 180 deg. off at the cam - another turn & they both match.

Remember, 1 turn at the crank is 2 turns at the cam.

luck!
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Old 06-17-2013, 02:59 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CotyM View Post
Both really, you can use the harmonic balancer bolt with the harmonic balance still on to turn the crank (It's that pully that goes over the crank timing sprocket that goes on the serpentine belt), you'll see what I mean when you get under there.

It's best to remove the passenger side wheel and inner splash guard to get to the crank pullys.

I'd look on youtube for a tutorial, or find someone with experience changing timing belts, it's not hard, it's just not something you want to mess up...

Also, now is a good time to ask, did you re-use the head bolts? If so I'd change them, I've seen a few threads on here where the head gasket started leak from not replacing the head bolts... Also make sure they are at proper tourqe, If I am reading the tourqe chart right then,

1) tighten all bolts to 11 ft-lb
2) tighten all bolts to 30 ft-lb
3) turn all head bolts 90 degrees

Doing the outer ones first... Maybe someone could chime in a verify I read that right?
Changed them but used a different torque sequence found on this site. I torqued to 37 then additional 90degrees than additional 90degrees.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sailor View Post
When checking it, remember that even if right there's one position that's 180 deg. off at the cam - another turn & they both match.

Remember, 1 turn at the crank is 2 turns at the cam.

luck!
So I do need to check that both valves are closed because it can be one turn out of alignment even if the marks are aligned?
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