New IMRC Actuator Still Get Code P1518 - Page 4 - Focus Fanatics
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Old 05-31-2013, 11:50 AM   #31
bbcobra
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thanks, my cable is fine though.
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Old 05-31-2013, 12:14 PM   #32
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You could run a temporary overlay for the monitor circuit by removing the existing circuit and connecting a jumper wire. This would eliminate any shorts as the cause. Or if you have a good DVOM just check that monitor circuit for resistance to the power, ground, and signal circuit.
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Old 05-31-2013, 02:29 PM   #33
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thanks. that diagram is a big help. I also just ordered a power transistor too. It's cheap and easy to replace.
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Old 06-01-2013, 01:55 PM   #34
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I get this same P1518 code occasionally. It stays on for several days then goes away on it's own. All the while I can tell the IMRC is working because under light throttle at the right RPM you can feel it when the runner is activated. Sometimes I use my scan tool and erase the P1518 code. Seems to pop up every 45-60 or so days.
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Old 06-03-2013, 01:39 PM   #35
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more than likely yours is either a dirty contacter (points like contact) or a broken solder joint on the PCB. either one can give intermittent problems like that.
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Old 06-03-2013, 01:45 PM   #36
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Where is this contacter located, is it inside the IMRC?
I've got the engine semi-disassembled for new pistons so now's the time to take care of other stuff.
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Old 06-03-2013, 01:50 PM   #37
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yes, there are some instructions on here some where on what to do. you can also find a video on youtube to see what it looks like. you take the cover off and desolder the power transistor contats (or just unbolt it). and flip the PC board out of the way to access the IMRC actuator switch. It is simply a set of contactors (like in a relay) use very fine grit sand paper or emory cloth to polish them. then also look for solder cracks that may need repairing .
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Old 06-03-2013, 03:00 PM   #38
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Problem solved...hopefully.
Don't know how but battery acid ate the IMRC cable. Theory is that since the intake manifold wouldn't open correctly it wasn't sending the proper signal to the computer to richen up the fuel under WOT.

So correct me if I'm wrong, nobody makes the correct SVT piston with the correct crown and compression height in a forged configuration, still utilizing the SVT rod?

Anybody have the Zetech vs. SVT compression height?
Zetech vs. SVT rod length?
Zetech vs. SVT ring widths?

I'm looking at Diamond Pistons making me a set. I have to think there is a market for something like this or am I in left field? I'm not looking at this for me to distribute, I'm looking at these pistons being available to WD's such as CFM and others.
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Old 06-14-2013, 10:34 PM   #39
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Two pistons were bad. #3 looks more like a "D" as it torched the firewall side through the rings and ring lands. #2 is cracked 180* between the wrist pin. When I screw up, I don't pull any punches!
Sent a good piston off this week to Diamond. The new pistons will be significantly better than factory with much better rings, lighter, stronger and coated skirts and crowns. Of course they could be made out of diamonds and if the engine doesn't get fuel, it'll happen again.
I've got a source on cams and he's going to put a regrind on both for me, sent them off this week also.
Also have new IMRCM, t-stat housing from CFM with 180* stat, new water pump, ARP rod & head bolts, rod bearings (the factory bearings look perfect with 130,000 miles on them), fuel pump, sock & filter. Also bought 4 valves for the #3 chamber and will sand / polish the dinged up chamber. Changing the valves as a precaution.
I should have the cams shortly and the pistons will be 2-3 weeks.
The. I'll have Tom tune it while I drive it this time
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Old 06-25-2013, 07:43 PM   #40
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ok, I can verify that a IMRC from a cougar (99-02) is the same as the focus. The cable is slightly longer (2 to 3 inches). I just put one on mine and it has fixed my issues. The old IMRC actuated the lever slowly then snapped back to the long runner position after starting and I think this was the whole problem. Probably a timing issue in the activation of the IMRC circuit. The replacement box actuates much quicker and holds there just like it's supposed to. Taking off is so much better with the added touque on the low end now.
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