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Old 05-24-2013, 02:03 PM   #11
Vanquished
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pig4bill View Post
Halfway decent batteries don't fail in less than 3 or 4 years. Not at the rate these Focus batteries do. The battery that came in my BMW worked great for 10 years.
Yea my walmart battery in my montero was 5+ years old and it was still going strongish, and I have no doubt that that was a crap battery (AAA even said that the walmart books were wrong and that the battery was undersized lol).
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Old 05-24-2013, 02:12 PM   #12
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For the longest time, Motorcraft batteries had a reputation for lasting a ridiculously long time.
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Old 10-09-2013, 07:38 PM   #13
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In my opinion it might not be the battery. Mine went flat yesterday due to an excessive drain from somwhere. It is at the dealer at the moment being diagnosed.
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Old 10-09-2013, 08:55 PM   #14
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Meh...I guess the quality is dropping. My 02 V6 still had the factory battery when I sold it in 08. My 07 Focus still has the factory battery at 110k. My 03 Cobra went out in 2011 but our 04 GT went out in 06...who knows.
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Old 10-09-2013, 09:22 PM   #15
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Here's a video for battery removal and install.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PcMapd-Z3Lg

This guy is very detailed. Has other vids for MK3's.
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Old 10-09-2013, 10:17 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pig4bill View Post
Halfway decent batteries don't fail in less than 3 or 4 years. Not at the rate these Focus batteries do. The battery that came in my BMW worked great for 10 years.
What exactly is the warranty failure rate for MK3 Focus batteries and BMW batteries?
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Old 10-10-2013, 07:25 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TboneZX3 View Post
The battery is easy to pull and replace, but unfortunately it's not covered in the manual.

It goes something like this (going from memory here) :

Disconnect ground at strut tower.
Remove lid
Disconnect positive at post
Pull front "gate" of battery box up, and hinge it down
Remove battery tie-down bracket
Slide battery partially out to disconnect negative at post
Slide out to remove

Reverse for installation
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2013TitaniumHatch View Post
Here's a video for battery removal and install.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PcMapd-Z3Lg

This guy is very detailed. Has other vids for MK3's.
I have been fortunate enough not to have to remove my battery, but I have been curious about removing it since I got my Focus a year ago. The downloaded factory shop manual specifies removal of the air box as a step in battery removal. The moomoo97 video requires you to tilt the battery a lot to clear the air box. I wonder about battery acid sloshing out. Plus, I think he grabs it by a terminal, which is a no-no. I had been taught to keep the battery level under all circumstances. TboneZX3, what is your experience?
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Old 10-10-2013, 08:19 AM   #18
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Couple things;

1) Batteries can fail early. It does happen. My wifes Honda Shadow had a brand new battery from the dealer (I watched them put it in), failed 3 months later. Same brand (Yuasa) is in my Kawasaki and is 7 years old.

2) Batteries will begin to become damaged when they dip below 12.4 volts. That's the point at which sulfation occurs. Your car may still start and run just fine, but below that, sulfate crystals will form on the plates impeding the batteries ability to hold a charge. This could've even happened at the dealer, if the battery was left 'dead' for days and then recharged! This is why some people use 'battery tenders' on things like boats, lawn mowers, motorcycles; etc. Things that may sit for months and not be used; to prevent them from dropping in voltage.

3) The oft quoted '13 or 14 volts' is not always accurate. When the vehicle is RUNNING, yes, it should be between 13.5~14.9 volts. Most run right around 14.1 volts. However, without the vehicle running, above 12.4 is acceptable. Most batteries (I say most because it can vary!) will run about 12.6~12.8 when fully charged. Remember that when you stick a meter on a running car (or use a gauge in the car), it's reading the total voltage of the cars electrical system, not JUST the battery. Also note that those numbers are assumed 'without load'. However, with OR without load, going below 12.4 volts for any extended period of time is harmful to the battery.

If you have a phantom draw you'll know by now, your new battery will be dead! But it's really not all that uncommon for a brand new battery to fail. It's not a precision instrument, it's a bath of chemicals (namely sulfuric acid) and lead plates. Plates can be damaged in shipping, sulfation could occur prematurely, etc. etc.
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Old 10-10-2013, 12:44 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Romans5.8 View Post
Couple things;

1) Batteries can fail early. It does happen.
Yes, of course a battery can fail early. Several examples have already been cited in this thread.

It is the failure rate of the OE battery that is in question.
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Old 10-10-2013, 01:29 PM   #20
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Yes, of course a battery can fail early. Several examples have already been cited in this thread.

It is the failure rate of the OE battery that is in question.
Fair enough!

The issue though; is that there are a lot of variables. A common cause of new-car battery failure has little to do with the reliability of the battery at all; and that's just letting it die in the lot, then waiting to recharge it. Say you've got a car with MyFord Touch that, before you bought it, the dealer liked to show off MFT with. Not on test drives, but just, sit in the car, key on, playing with MFT. Or lights were left on (not a good example with cars that auto shutoff but you get the point). Even just keys being left on. Then the battery dies, but what's worse, is that several days (or even just several hours) go by before it's noticed. Battery is recharged in the shop and it tests ok so it's back out on the lot. Problem is, since it was below 12.4 volts for a long time, the sulphuric acid broke down an crystals formed on the plates. Voltage up; everything is okay; except most of those crystals are still there (some break down back into the acid but most don't).

So all I'm saying is, we don't necessarily need to all carry around a spare battery; because new batteries from new cars in dealers are prone to failure; because of the dealer, not the battery. Next time your at a powersports dealer (boats, motorcycles, ATV's, etc.) take a look. A lot of them have little pigtail leads hanging from under the seats. Those are battery tender leads installed by the dealer so that they can get periodic charging. Those smaller batteries are ESPECIALLY prone to these issues, and the dealer is sick of angry people complaining about batteries only lasting a few months! Dealer keeps the batteries on a tender once a week or so, and no more complaints!
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