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Old 05-13-2013, 05:24 PM   #271
Mrlandy
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You will need a lockpick, or a mft with the backup cam enabled. Lockpick 2 is $300 and lets you add 3cameras. Heres my full writeup:http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/s....php?p=4723640
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Old 05-15-2013, 01:16 AM   #272
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still looking to sell my retrofits:

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Old 05-15-2013, 02:20 AM   #273
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thejordan View Post
still looking to sell my retrofits:

How much you looking to get for them?

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Old 05-23-2013, 01:01 PM   #274
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So where did this land on the best method for opening them. Oven vs cutting the black housing.
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Old 05-30-2013, 01:16 PM   #275
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How did you bypass the " dipped beam fault" ?
Resistors or relays or something ?
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Old 05-30-2013, 01:42 PM   #276
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I did the heat gun trick and spent nearly 4 hours opening my headlights. On my second set, I used a dremel to cut off the top housing lip and pried the front right off. Dremel was better for me, it took 20 minutes. Hot knife took way too long even with a 60 watt iron.
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Old 09-08-2013, 06:03 AM   #277
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Why not "cook" the headlights? is a good idea?
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Old 09-08-2013, 02:28 PM   #278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrlandy View Post
I did the heat gun trick and spent nearly 4 hours opening my headlights. On my second set, I used a dremel to cut off the top housing lip and pried the front right off. Dremel was better for me, it took 20 minutes. Hot knife took way too long even with a 60 watt iron.
I cut mine too, and painted more than just the Ti ones have..
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Old 10-03-2013, 07:42 PM   #279
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Hey guys. Started my retrofit this afternoon, first headlight came apart with little effort compared to the lens on my truck.

I've hit a snag though, I ground out enough material from the locking part of the bulb socket to get the projector through the bulb hole, but not nearly enough of the projector's thread pokes through to get the silicone thing, lock ring, washer and bulb holder in place. I can only thread the main nut enough to hold it in place. Anyone have any suggestions on how I can get the projector far enough back in the housing to get it secured?



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Old 01-14-2014, 05:20 PM   #280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craigsfocus View Post
Finally got the projectors installed! This is a very time consuming thing especially if you live in a apartment without a garage.

Here is my write up.


Disclaimer: I am no way responsible for any damages to your car or headlights due to your decision to tackle this project. If you feel this project is too challenging for you, hire a professional to do this modification.

Things you will need:

1) BI-XENON MORIMOTO MINI STAGE III KIT (H1) with Mini Gatling Gun Shrouds & H11 Wire Harness & 35w Bulbs/Ballasts- $270.00
2) Morimoto H11 Stand Alone Can Bus Harness- $30.00
3) Lots of Time
4) Lots of Patience

Step One: Very carefully get the headlights out of the car by removing the two screws and sliding them forward to remove them off the car. Then remove the headlight plugs.

Step Two: Now pre heat your oven to 275 degrees. While you are waiting for the oven to heat up, take a sharp hobby knife around the gap of the headlight to score the adhesive, as you are doing that remove the access adhesive that is sticking out from the factory. Once the oven is heated up, place one of the headlights in the oven for 7-8 minutes. Once 7-8 minutes have passed remove from the oven (BE CAREFUL ITS HOT SO USE OVEN MITTS) and start going at the headlight adhesive with sharp razor and scoring the adhesive, try to remove as much as possible. I also used a small flat head screw driver to pry up on the black plastic. BE CAREFUL TO WITH THE PLASTIC BECAUSE ITS HOT AND SOFT, IF YOU PRESS TOO HARD ON THE PLASTIC WITH THE FLAT HEAD YOU WILL PUNCTURE IT OR TEAR IT. Repeat this process until you have the headlight separated. Once you have the headlight separated, you need to remove the reflector from the black plastic piece. It just pops off with a some pulling. Firmly but carefully. If you wanna remove the crome inner-ring of the lens, you need to remove the screws by the turn signal housing with a T-10 screw driver. The it will require some wiggling around and it will come out easily.

All apart


Step Three: Next remove the little head light bulb end cap. Its a single screw (T-20) on the base of the reflector. Once you get that out, take a dremel and sand some material out of the bulb socket, go a little at a time until you are able to fit the projector in the hole snugly. Now. Where the bulb end cap was, grind out a little material so you can get the projector solenoid wire through it. Once you are done with that. Clean up all the dust. Install the silicon washer on the projector and install the projector by feeding the threads through the hole. If you look on the back of the projector (the shiny side) on the lip you will see "TOP" make sure that it is upright and on the top and as level as possible. Once you get the projector in place, you will need to wire the solenoid wire into the high beam harness. I pushed the blade tips into the backside of the pin connector on the black housing. Once you get that done, you will need to slice the rubber access covers that go on the backside of the black housing to make way for the the factory wire and the bulb wiring. The bulb wiring from Morimoto has a rubber grommet on it so I just pulled that through. Now reattach the reflector housing to the black housing by aligning the holes to the silver poles, done this firmly but carefully.

This is where I did the grinding to the slot where the little bulb end cap was.


This picture shows where the wire went through the slot and how the silicon grommet has to go on the projector.


The projector installed


The projector installed with the Min Gatling Gun Shroud.


How I fed the wires through the rubber plugs



Step Four: Reassemble the entire headlight assembly. Make sure you have removed most of the factory adhesive if not all. Now lay down your butle adhesive that you got from TRS. This stuff is very reactive so as soon as you start pushing the lens back on, it will start sticking so make sure you have the two plastic pins lined up as you are placing the lens back on. Then start pushing the lens on firmly. Once you have the headlights together place them in the oven at 275 degrees for 7-8 minutes. Once they come out the oven you may have to press some places of the headlight together again. Let the headlights cool off.

Step 5: Install the headlights into the car and wire the bulbs and ballasts. Everything in the kit connects together with 9006 plugs. I tried using the Stand alone Can-Bus Harness by itself as TRS advertises but it doesn't work, well it works part of the time. I think the harness overheats. So you have to use the regular harness that TRS normally packs in their kits.

Very Awesome, Good job, your car is very nice looking!
I absolutely want retrofit projector as I think HID in stock housing are somehow dangerous....

I have a question about what you bought,
"BI-XENON MORIMOTO MINI STAGE III KIT (H1) with Mini Gatling Gun Shrouds"
they are Bi-Xenon? once they are installed, you can put single beam HID in them and keep your High beam on the other bulb? (halogen bulb).
I already have my HID kit and all that working perfectly on low beams only, so i'm wondering what I need to buy exactly...

Thanks for your help guyz,
and again Craig, very well done ! looks pretty !
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