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Old 05-14-2013, 01:20 PM   #31
AllenR
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Well, I just torqued the sensor to the adapter, and then the engine. Warmed it up, and drove it around. Put a piece of pasteboard under the car, no leaks.
Thanks for the help, guys! I guess the straight sensor is made to cut into the tapered housing. Probably a one time deal. If the sensor goes bad, you have to replace the housing, too.
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Old 05-16-2013, 05:49 AM   #32
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Thinking there's some misunderstanding here. Despite all this talk of varied tapered or non-tapered threads the fact remains that car has either one or the other, the replacement fitting should have been the same type.
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Old 05-16-2013, 08:27 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
Thinking there's some misunderstanding here. Despite all this talk of varied tapered or non-tapered threads the fact remains that car has either one or the other, the replacement fitting should have been the same type.
Seems like an odd way to design the parts, but the fact is that it seals with the correct torque applied. The part numbers from the Ford parts site for my vin number, matched the parts I received, and it worked. May be why the adapter is made out of soft metal, while the sensor is made of hard steel. It allows the sensor to dig in to the adapter to seal it.
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Old 05-16-2013, 10:05 PM   #34
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So why did the first one not, do ya think?
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Old 05-16-2013, 11:22 PM   #35
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So why did the first one not, do ya think?
I don't know.
Best guess?
The adapter expands and contracts with the heating and cooling of the engine. Could be after thousands of times, it just failed to contract enough to seal the sensor, and began leaking. When I tried installing the new sensor, it had to go further in the tapered socket than the original depth to seal, which was not possible, since the soft metal of the adapter cracked, before it could reach that point.
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