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Old 05-10-2013, 01:20 PM   #1
loudspl
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Exclamation New YS4E head, need help with codes

Just replaced the head with this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271113243985...84.m1439.l2649

Started getting a P0303 misfire code with old plugs/wires/coil

Changed to a Davis Unified Ignition coil, their plug wires, and E3 3.60 plugs
Put on new cat convertor
Car seemed to run ok but now I am back to the same code again and two others
P0304 and P0316

Is it possible the shop installed the cylinder head wrong? Maybe the crankshaft position sensor is bad? Maybe the VR sensor?

Any help would be much appreciated


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Old 05-10-2013, 07:41 PM   #2
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Those plugs are garbage, I sold them sometimes to perfectly running cars that proceeded to run like crap with them, replaced with proper plug and went back to smooth running. I took back almost every E3 plug we sold, they flat suck.

You'd not be running at all if crank sensor bad.

Probably need to compression check the motor just to see if you are wasting your time.
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Old 05-10-2013, 08:17 PM   #3
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Those plugs are garbage, I sold them sometimes to perfectly running cars that proceeded to run like crap with them, replaced with proper plug and went back to smooth running. I took back almost every E3 plug we sold, they flat suck.

You'd not be running at all if crank sensor bad.

Probably need to compression check the motor just to see if you are wasting your time.

These plugs replaced Autolite Platinum AGSF34FM plugs that ended up with the same misfire code on #3

What plugs would you suggest? Regular gapped Autolite 5144 coppers?
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Old 05-11-2013, 10:09 PM   #4
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Old 05-12-2013, 02:19 AM   #5
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Any normal stock replacement plug but the E3, they are gimmick plugs like splitfire and do nothing at all except run worse in my view. I use any single platinum or doubles if the coils are twin tower waste spark ones. Waste spark coils fire one coil forward and one backward in each pair like motorcycle, the only reason to use double plats.

The misfire may be a cylinder problem getting worse, ignition will seem to fix it at first but then more trouble. Why I said read the compression before you waste a lot of time.
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Old 05-12-2013, 03:22 AM   #6
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loud, WHY did you replace the head? Did your old one drop a valve seat and fragment it in the cylinder and ruin the head?

As had been said before here - amc49 I think has even said it - if you have an SOHC that crunches up a valve seat, you have to assume that you have metal fragments in BOTH the intake and exhaust - and both of those have to be removed and shaken and vacuumed out very carefully. This is of course assuming that your cylinder isn't all scored up.

Sorry to hear about all this. Since you supplied the part I am sure the shop won't stand behind the work they did - never heard of a shop honoring a warranty on customer-supplied parts - so your pretty well screwed if they didn't clean out everything.

It's an expensive lesson to learn but in all liklihood you could have paid the shop to do a Zetec swap instead of trying to repair the SOHC for the same money.
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Old 05-12-2013, 11:46 AM   #7
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Question

Head was replaced to AVOID the SPI head problems in the first place...head was perfectly fine at 95K miles...


Making matters worse...before I could take the E3s out, the car seemed to be running OK when all of a sudden the temp started climbing rapidly to the red. Pulled over and at idle seems to go back to normal operating temp. Turned off ignition then restarted tried to drive again, same thing happens. Shut car off to have it towed at this point. 1/2 hour later, attempted to start again, engine turns over tries to fire very briefly but never runs. Checked codes and the same codes are there, no additional codes..
I will have the shop run a compression test 1st. Hope they don't blame it on me when they see the LiveWires and Davis Unified ignition in there. Non-OEM parts often become the scapegoat unfortunately.

If this reconditioned head is now garbage I think I would rather do a ZETEC swap if it's not too hard. Unless repairing the existing head and a rotating assembly (if needed) would be cheaper??
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Old 05-12-2013, 04:22 PM   #8
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OK well if it didn't grenade then your good. My crystal ball says the shop did something wrong like used the wrong head gasket or didn't toque the bolts properly or something wildly wrong, and it's going to have to be taken apart and put back together again, this time properly. I doubt the head was damaged at all, sounds like you were pretty consciencious about monitoring the temp.

Did you replace the water pump when they had it apart?
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Old 05-15-2013, 10:36 PM   #9
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OK well if it didn't grenade then your good. My crystal ball says the shop did something wrong like used the wrong head gasket or didn't toque the bolts properly or something wildly wrong, and it's going to have to be taken apart and put back together again, this time properly. I doubt the head was damaged at all, sounds like you were pretty consciencious about monitoring the temp.

Did you replace the water pump when they had it apart?
Compression test was 150 on all 4 according to shop

Water pump was replaced when belt was done

Shop replaced plugs with Autolite Iridiums, seemed to run fine for a few days.

Now, startup is rough. Stumbles when started then smooths out.

Tonight, it would not fire at all again. Turns over, but no start.

Maybe I have an injector problem? When the E3s were removed, it looked like they were fouled out

Suggestions??
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Old 05-15-2013, 10:54 PM   #10
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P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
P0316 Misfire Detected On Startup (First 1000 Revolutions)

Either your spark plug wires are not properly seated and were not coated in spark plug boot grease or the plugs are bad... I'd replace the spark plugs with auto light or Motorcraft platinum's, and reset the boots with fresh boot grease if there isn't any (a packet costs only 99 cents at advance auto, and it will do all 4 plugs)
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