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DURATEC Performance (2003-2007) The place to chat about any Duratec 23, 23E, and 20 engine performance, tuning and exhaust related upgrades.

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Old 05-03-2013, 02:17 PM   #31
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haha if i come across one ill pick it up, ive been looking but nothing cheap enough yet ;)
The cost of a "junkyard" 2.3 seems to be about $1k. So you'd gain about 15hp and about 19 trq. It's probably the most cost effective modification for a D20 owner. Even bolt on parts, adding up to $1k probably won't get those gains.

My comparison is unfair, however, as I don't include labor and other expenses.
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Old 05-03-2013, 02:33 PM   #32
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The cost of a "junkyard" 2.3 seems to be about $1k. So you'd gain about 15hp and about 19 trq. It's probably the most cost effective modification for a D20 owner. Even bolt on parts, adding up to $1k probably won't get those gains.

My comparison is unfair, however, as I don't include labor and other expenses.
oh yeah its a great idea, its just doing it when you havent attempted to do a swap or even been around someone who has or seen how its done. i cant have my car down for that long to do that. and to pay someone to do it is probably aound 2000$, so with those prices its almost a turbo kit
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Old 05-03-2013, 05:07 PM   #33
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i just finished a emission analysis on an engine where i ran 87 octane all the way up to 110. tried ethanol (10% blends) and non ethanol blends. using fixed valve and spark timing. the emissions steadily increased. this was done on a low compression 305cc 14tq 1 cyl briggs and straton engine. so take the results with a grain of salt when comparing it to our motors.

i ran a electronic governor and as the octane increased it had to work harder to maintain the rpm limits i set on many pulls it exceeded the limits and took a while to bring them back down. i wasnt measuring power output but that to me means more torque. also as the octane increased the idle quality decreased.
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Old 05-03-2013, 08:21 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by jugglethese View Post
oh yeah its a great idea, its just doing it when you havent attempted to do a swap or even been around someone who has or seen how its done. i cant have my car down for that long to do that. and to pay someone to do it is probably aound 2000$, so with those prices its almost a turbo kit
$2000.00 is 1/2 of the fwerk's turbo kit w/o options. Like said above= A great cost effective upgrade is a 23 on board. Don't forget 'bout shipping, if your having problems finding a 23 in Canada. Can't beat grunt.
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Old 05-27-2013, 04:26 PM   #35
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So basically, no one will feel a difference in the butt dyno when they change their octane rating unless they have a good amount of modifications done to the engine.?
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Old 05-28-2013, 11:37 AM   #36
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So basically, no one will feel a difference in the butt dyno when they change their octane rating unless they have a good amount of modifications done to the engine.?
Unless the ECU has been adjusted to notice the higher octane (a tune), it is a complete waste of money to use anything but 87.
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Old 05-28-2013, 11:51 AM   #37
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I can only imagine what parts I could've bought with that money...
Just doing some dirty math...

Over the span of approx. 3 years you could have saved approx. $200 by using regular fuel. Don't know how much you could buy with that. Maybe some custom floor mats and a skull shift knob? lol.
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Old 05-28-2013, 12:03 PM   #38
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I've already got like 4 skull shift knobs.
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Old 05-28-2013, 12:05 PM   #39
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Yup!

High Octane's purpose is to prevent pre-ignition (detonation, pinging) in high compression engines. High compression results in more efficiency/power whether it's from increased C/R (compression ratio) or from better cylinder fill (boost, flow improvements).

If the existing fuel is adequate to avoid pre-ignition, higher octane REDUCES performance for the same reason it improves it when needed - it doesn't "light off" as easily, so you don't get the well timed clean burn that is optimal for power/economy/emissions.

Best example of this I've ever seen was a motorcycle that was "de-tuned" from the factory for lower octane fuel (lower C/R), which wouldn't start when the owner of the new bike "treated" it to a tank of high octane fuel.

Like any other "performance" modification, everything has to "match" to achieve the result desired.

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Old 05-28-2013, 06:18 PM   #40
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glad I've been getting 87 then especially with gas prices going up again. that makes it harder to save and get a weighted shift knob.
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