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Old 04-24-2013, 08:28 PM   #371
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedComet View Post
Oil fanatics (hmm, wouldn't be cool if we actually -had- an oil fanatics subforum?) Have any of you done the catch-can or sample test valve install and have an install thread for it with pics, part #s, etc?
I have all the parts for the bypass but fabing a bracket is driving me crazy, just can't seem to find the time and make a decision on how to support it. It's actually installed but not plumbed, I still have a Motorcraft fill in it and 4.5 gals of Amsoil 5w-20 sitting in the basement. Wifes Saturn Vue has Amsoil oil and filter installed. paid dealership $6.xx to change it.

Looked at the catch can but haven't decided if it's worth the trouble to install it, I'm thinking not but I'll await the high mileage crowd to take pictures of their intake valves. It's a lot of work accessing the PCV system on this buggy.

I love the oil rants, a sub-forum would be my second home.
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Old 04-25-2013, 07:28 AM   #372
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You have to drill a hole through the upper black plastic. Remove one of those "air vents" that allows access to the internal area. On the top left of this picture, you see what looks like an air vent. Remove the vent, hand bend a bracket to contour and work, drill the hole in the right place. etc...

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Old 04-26-2013, 12:31 AM   #373
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UnleashedBeast View Post
You have to drill a hole through the upper black plastic. Remove one of those "air vents" that allows access to the internal area. On the top left of this picture, you see what looks like an air vent. Remove the vent, hand bend a bracket to contour and work, drill the hole in the right place. etc...
Snip picture, I hate it when people quote pictures in replies, pet peeve...

So... You are supporting it from the plastic cover? I assume you removed the felt pad like thing (Sound dampener?) to do this?

(EDIT - I tried to remove the line breaks, even using notepad to strip it of crud but no joy, sorry)
I did look in the air vent (cover removed) but from what I remember, it was right over the front strut tower bracing bar and I was actually considering drilling into that but I hope to have some time this weekend (Three days off ) to really make a decision as to how I should brace it and finish the install. The hoses have one end already assembled and I have drilled and installed a steel (all I could find at work) AN fitting in the adapter to drain the oil from the filter assembly since it sits so high up (engine and hoses really).

One downside, upon tapping the adapter (1/8" Pipe), I hit a void/contamination spot, part of the thread is ruined (Missing) but luckily it is not in a sealing part of the thread, I checked. I also went over the entire unit looking for more of the same and I found nothing visible. It kind of scared me at first, cheap recycled aluminum has much more voids and contamination than virgin stock but virgin is SO much more expensive to get that almost all suppliers use some percentage of recycled material in their supply chain. Still, when I began, I used a smaller size than I wanted with the intention of upgrading later and drilling a bigger hole. I hate pipe threads even when sealed.

I ordered some Loctite 545 before I even got the kit and I was really surprised that it came with some (.5 ml) but not enough (need 1 ml), of the same stuff ($$$). I was impressed with the quality of the kit, the fittings appear to be 3K PSI rated AN fittings but of course the hoses (Parker, Name Brand) would never take that; still, quality stuff (Love the SAE O-Ring face seals, the best that are currently available for this type of application).

I was even more surprised to find that the filters are in parallel so that the only pressure the bypass will ever see is the back pressure from the full flow filter and the bypass has a brass restrictor insert to further limit flow. I guess I was expecting a pressure reducing regulator spring setup but simpler is always better and I expect it to work just fine this way and there is no spring to fade or break. The down side is that the bypass will clog up sooner since it's supply is not being pre-filtered by the full flow (EaO 34) filter which I don't expect to be an issue, the thing is huge for a modern two liter gas engine. The upside is that it will (to some small degree) further reduce total filter back pressure (February cold starts in MA).

Can you tell that I REALLY Love oil threads
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Old 04-26-2013, 07:29 AM   #374
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Thank you for sharing your observations, it's a top tier kit that will last a long time and can be used on car after car.

The bypass filter receives about 10% of the total oil flow at all times. With this much oil in the sump, a 45 minute drive would have cycled it all through the bypass more than once.

Quote:
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Snip picture, I hate it when people quote pictures in replies, pet peeve...

So... You are supporting it from the plastic cover? I assume you removed the felt pad like thing (Sound dampener?) to do this?
I will take a pic and post it here asap.

The felt was left in place, drilled through it neatly.

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Can you tell that I REALLY Love oil threads
as do i!
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Old 04-27-2013, 05:12 PM   #375
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Here are better pictures of how I did it.

I removed the vent cover to drill a hole.


Hand bent this metal material for front support of the bypass filter mount.


another angle


In this picture, you can see that the primary "gold" mount on the rear was attached to a flat area in the back of the engine bay.


It's a very solid mounting point. These pictures were taken today, 11,000 miles after installation with the same oil and filters. I am shooting for 20,000 miles before having to change it.
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Old 04-27-2013, 05:20 PM   #376
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedComet View Post
Oil fanatics (hmm, wouldn't be cool if we actually -had- an oil fanatics subforum?) Have any of you done the catch-can or sample test valve install and have an install thread for it with pics, part #s, etc?
Guess who would be the perfect moderator in that area.

I have a catch can left over from my GT500. Thought about installing it on the Focus. If I do, I will make a thread about it.
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Old 05-01-2013, 10:56 AM   #377
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I just wanted to say thank you for this post. I just purchased a 2013 Focus Hatchback last week and just changed my break in oil at 1160 mi. It saved me a lot of time since I did not know there was a belly pan and armed with this info I was able to acquire the proper tools ahead of time. This forum also enlightened me to the practice of changing the break-in oil, I was very surprised at how dirty the oil was at this mileage. BTW I am loving this site and loving my car!
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Old 05-01-2013, 02:23 PM   #378
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I just wanted to say thank you for this post. I just purchased a 2013 Focus Hatchback last week and just changed my break in oil at 1160 mi. It saved me a lot of time since I did not know there was a belly pan and armed with this info I was able to acquire the proper tools ahead of time. This forum also enlightened me to the practice of changing the break-in oil, I was very surprised at how dirty the oil was at this mileage. BTW I am loving this site and loving my car!
There isn't a special "break-in" oil.
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Old 05-01-2013, 02:49 PM   #379
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There isn't a special "break-in" oil.
Well by break-in oil I meant the oil that came with the car . It's nice to hear from someone though. I've learned so many things about my new car from this foum and l'm looking forward to learning more.
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Old 05-14-2013, 09:55 PM   #380
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Being a past Redline oil dealer using 700 plus hp 4.6 mustang engines......Most people don't realize that with synthetic oil you can get up to the 18k to 22k miles on the oil before you have to replace it.......You just have to change the filter every 3 to 5 k ..........I hate to see people waste money when they don't have to..........
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