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Old 04-10-2013, 07:28 AM   #11
mishka
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my tire does not have as wide of a sidewall as yours. I'll try to take a pic today. But the brand is Continental. It's called Contipro.
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Old 04-10-2013, 07:34 AM   #12
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my tire does not have as wide of a sidewall as yours. I'll try to take a pic today. But the brand is Continental. It's called Contipro.
Cool. If there isn't much bulge then you should be fine. The rub that I got on a similar offset came from pretty extreme maneuver that most likely wouldn't be experienced in 'normal' driving
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Old 04-25-2013, 08:40 AM   #13
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I wouldn't say that I drive like a "normal" person, but I haven't drifting or anything if thats what you mean. But I've taken some turns pretty fast... love to hear the tires squeel haha.

Anyways, everything has arrived and is waiting to be installed. My Eibach Sportlines says avg drop 1.7"-2.3" on the top of the package.
Should I, now, worry about rubbing using the 25/30 spacers? I know you said 1.5" drop would be okay.

(just so you know I plan on taking to a shop to get it installed.)
is it better to take it to Ford dealership or a local bodyshop? thx
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Old 04-25-2013, 08:43 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mishka View Post
I wouldn't say that I drive like a "normal" person, but I haven't drifting or anything if thats what you mean. But I've taken some turns pretty fast... love to hear the tires squeel haha.

Anyways, everything has arrived and is waiting to be installed. My Eibach Sportlines says avg drop 1.7"-2.3" on the top of the package.
Should I, now, worry about rubbing using the 25/30 spacers? I know you said 1.5" drop would be okay.

(just so you know I plan on taking to a shop to get it installed.)
is it better to take it to Ford dealership or a local bodyshop? thx
Whichever you trust and has the best price!
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Old 04-25-2013, 09:41 AM   #15
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Well, I happened across my spare tire yesterday which happens to have the Conti-Pro. It's not the same as yours because mine is on a 16" wheel, but it has quite a wide tread and bulge.

I know you were told that these spacers will fit your car, but that is the technical truth and not the applied truth. I'm pretty confident after seeing my spare that you are going to be rolling your front fender, rubbing, or changing your tires to a narrower width. If you go to a narrower tire then you will be able to dial more of the camber out of the rear, but if not then you will have to live with some (though it won't be too bad).

Use an independent shop that you trust-they will be cheaper than the dealership.

Do your drop first and if you have the spacers installed then, then drive carefully until you can figure out where rub occurs. The maneuver that I was talking about was doing a full-lock turn into my driveway at a relatively high speed. Your wheels will be over 2mm farther out, plus tire bulge.

Just use caution and slowly work up your maneuvers to find out where rub occurs. It will occur, you just need to know where in order to figure out how to avoid it.
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Old 04-25-2013, 10:50 AM   #16
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damn... i'm def not trying to roll any fenders. there must be a way to make this work... I will take pics of my tire bulge to show you .. maybe it's different.
on a side note I rarely have a lot of cargo, usually I have none in the car and drive solo mostly.
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Old 04-25-2013, 11:51 AM   #17
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damn... i'm def not trying to roll any fenders. there must be a way to make this work... I will take pics of my tire bulge to show you .. maybe it's different.
on a side note I rarely have a lot of cargo, usually I have none in the car and drive solo mostly.
The rear of the car actually isn't a problem because the fenders are rolled from the factory and the rear suspension induces negative camber under compression so the top of the wheels come inboard (more clearance).

The front, on the other hand, is not rolled and the tires toe out under compression more than they camber. That means that there is less clearance to start with and the tires do less to get out of the way.

Give me a few minutes to take a wheel off and get my spare out and we will discuss a little more.

My wheels come off so much that they should be on quick-disconnects
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Old 04-25-2013, 12:16 PM   #18
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I just realized that I have enough spacers lying around that I can actually mock up your wheel fitment to within about 2mm, so I'm going to do that. My spare is a 16x6.5 ET50, and with 35mm worth of spacers I will be 1.3mm inboard of where you will be.

The tire is a 215/55 R16, so it's about 2mm shorter than yours but should replicate your fitment very closely. I will have a little bit more bulge in my tire than yours, but we're going to be within a couple millimeters of your overall fitment.

Front inner fender-


Rear inner fender-


I know those aren't the greatest pics, but if you put your finger on the inner edge of the front and rear fenders you will feel the difference.
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Old 04-25-2013, 12:33 PM   #19
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whoa dude you are the man! This is great you are gineau pigging not only for me but everyone else out there who wants to know about this!
I'm at work right now but i can tell just from looking at the car that the rear fender is rolled more.
i need to find my nice camera when i get home. so many pics to take!

lemme know how how the fitment is. thanks a million again!
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Old 04-25-2013, 04:57 PM   #20
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Ok, I'm going to upload my pics from my phone to avoid photobucket hassle, and then I will edit the post with typed words via computer because it will be a long explanation of what you're looking at. Try and reserve judgment until I put the information in, so as that some questions that you will inevitably have can be answered first.

Ok, here we go-

This is the two tires laying down flat on the ground so that you can get an estimate of the width difference of the wheels that I'm working with. The spare is a 16x6.5 ET 50, so all of my spacer measurements were based off of that to compare.


This is the amount of bulge that comes out past the wheel rim, roughly 15-16mm. You can measure yours to get an idea of how much different your tires are to this spare. They should have less due to the fact that your wheel is 1/2" wider, but I don't know what that is going to equal in real world numbers.


This is a front end shot of the front wheel. It is not perfectly parallel to the car, but should give you a rough estimate of how much tire is sticking out.


This is a 1/4 shot with me sitting on the front end. This should be *roughly* where your car will sit in relation to the tire when on Sportlines.


Same shot, a bit further back-


When I threw my 10mm spacer onto the nuts holding the 15mm adapter, I get 15mm (measured from inner spacer lip to outer spacer lip)-


This is the first of the pics for the rear. This is a 15mm spacer on top of a 20mm adapter-


Rear shot, closer to parallel than a 3/4 shot, with suspension compressed as much as I could get it-


Rear 1/4 shot with compressed rear-


Ok, the math. You have 17x7 ET50 wheels and want a 25/30 spacer setup. This puts you at a ET25/20, which gives you a total of 63.9mm of poke in the front and 68.9 in the rear. I have 16x6.5 ET50 wheels with 15/20mm adapters already installed. The closest that I can get to your total poke measurements with this wheel is to add 15mm of additional spacers. This puts me at a total ET20/15, which gives me a total of 62.6mm of poke in the front and 67.6 in the rear. That means that these pics are mathematically all 1.3mm inboard of what you will ultimately have for wheel fitment.

The numerical poke number is in reference to the outer edge of your lip in relation to your hub. This has nothing to do with the tire, per se, other than the fact that your tire has to mount to it. If you take a measurement of your tire bulge in a similar fashion to what I showed above (lip to outer edge of bulge), then you can remove the 1.3mm difference (stated above) and any additional amount is savings that you would have from your tire to the body. A rough example to illustrate would be to assume that your lip to bulge measurement was 11mm. 16-11+1.3=3.7 That means that you would have an additional 3.7mm of clearance in comparison to my pictures.

To better illustrate the differences that a tire can make, the 16" wheel with 30mm of spacers (as pictured above) is exactly 1mm farther outboard than my 18" wheel with 15mm of spacers. Despite that 1mm difference, the tire bulge you see above in comparison to my 18" pic (further up the thread) is drastically different. Fwiw, the bulge on my 18's measures only a few mm, and that is near the wheel rim. Like I mentioned earlier, the PS3's taper in from there to the tread.

Honestly, I'm curious to see where your wheels end up after the drop and spacers. Honestly though, I don't imagine that the tire fitment will be there. A few mm will save you in the rear if you keep you don't remove the camber induced by the drop, but only a tire change is going to save the front. I think your 17's are better fit with a 20/25mm set and possible fender roll. What I've seen today combined with number-crunching, there is no way that this could be run on the streets without causing some damage to the body. Obviously this doesn't take into account what your tire-bulge number is, but you would have to have a pretty small number to make your tires not hit anything.

I would appreciate if others double-check my math and post any issues found. Ask questions, add input/advice.
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