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Old 04-22-2013, 06:23 PM   #61
AMMO-Duke
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UPDATE!

If you remember, my turbo oil drain goes directly into a hole in the side of the head that had a large plug from the factory. Of course they could not use something with a common thread size, they just had to come up with some oddball size that you cannot find hardware for. It is a 3/4 inch thread but the threadcount is very fine. So what I did originally is just stick the hose in the hole(it fit tightly). I know this is not very scientific, but it never leaked a drop. The real issue was that the hose was not made for oil and I knew that I would have to deal with it sooner or later. Well...the hose got really soft, so I decided to fix it more permanently.

I used a 3/4 garden hose adapter as seen in the pic below. I added a large o-ring that fits perfectly inside the smooth part of the hole before the threads.



I added a good amount of RTV to the threads and cross-threaded that sucker in. It is very tight and is not going anywhere!



Here is a pic of the oil drain on the bottom of the turbo.



I used an oil rated hose(same as I use on my oil cooler). There is no clamp on the adapter side because the hose is so tight that I could barely get it on to begin with.

Finished....no leaks and no oil drain issues!

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Old 04-22-2013, 06:55 PM   #62
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Its just my opinion here but that doesnt look like a very good idea for a turbo drain , there is no flow for it

Tom
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Old 04-22-2013, 07:12 PM   #63
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Its just my opinion here but that doesnt look like a very good idea for a turbo drain , there is no flow for it

Tom
Agreed. Should never have a hard 90 off the turbo.
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Old 04-22-2013, 09:44 PM   #64
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I agree also. But I believe this was my best option with the turbo in this location. It is hard to tell by the pic, but the turbo is tilted slightly so the bottom of the 90 is not level, giving it a little elevation. Plus, there is no standing oil inside the head in this area, just open space. This all adds up to it working just fine so far.
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Old 04-23-2013, 12:22 AM   #65
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I agree also. But I believe this was my best option with the turbo in this location. It is hard to tell by the pic, but the turbo is tilted slightly so the bottom of the 90 is not level, giving it a little elevation. Plus, there is no standing oil inside the head in this area, just open space. This all adds up to it working just fine so far.
NO the 90 does not add up to it working fine. Need to put a normal flange and run a line all the way down like they (I) do on the K-series sidewinder manifolds. there no point to mess the seals up on the turbo for a 30.00 fix.
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Old 04-23-2013, 02:42 AM   #66
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props for the build AMMO-duke it looks badass :)
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Old 04-23-2013, 08:21 PM   #67
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props for the build AMMO-duke it looks badass :)
Thanks! I am having a ton of fun with it.
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Old 04-23-2013, 08:29 PM   #68
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Dyno results:

Stock Duratec 2.0
Stock Intake Manifold
Ancient T-4 turbo
93 Octane
10.9 AFR
10.5 PSI



Question, why is my power curve so jagged? Only thing I can think of is I had the spark plug gap at .045. I was experimenting with different gaps and could not tell a difference until on the dyno. I now have the gap at .035, but I regret not figuring this out before the dyno. I hope I did not lose power because of this, It will irritate me to know if I could have made more power. Any other ideas???

Daryl
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Old 04-23-2013, 08:41 PM   #69
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Got a datalog and I will help you with the top end rough lines , looks like timing

Tom
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Old 04-23-2013, 11:23 PM   #70
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Thanks! I will get a fresh datalog in the next couple of days. Unfortunately, I did not datalog the dyno runs because I was helping a friend learn how to operate the dyno for the first time at the shop where he works.
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