manual trans TPS to ATX throttle body-it works - Focus Fanatics
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Old 03-30-2013, 03:54 PM   #1
amc49
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manual trans TPS to ATX throttle body-it works

My 2000 zetec ATX wagon started having idle troubles, kept dying and erratic behavior down around idle. No CEL. New IAC stopped it for a little bit then it came back.

Bought a 2000 manual TPS since everyone states new ATX one not available. Bought a washer and two sheet metal screws too at $.69 and 2X $.19. ground a flat on the washer to clear the bumpout on the TPS and then drilled two screw holes in the outside edge of washer to match mounting holes on TB. Put the washer on top of the TPS flat and screwed them both down to TB using the longer screws after grinding off the screw hole bosses on the TPS. The bosses prevent the TPS from swinging in a circle. Now the TPS is 360 degree adjustable under the washer, I swung it to get .90 volts at idle stop and 4.62 volts at wide open throttle using a voltmeter and the center white wire on TPS connector. Tighten the screws down there, the washer holds the TPS firmly in place. Be cool, over tightening I'm sure could crush the TPS, it only has to be tight enough so that sensor will not budge trying to move it by hand. My washer was 1/8" thick, it did not warp at tightening. No additional connector needed either, the connection is identical.

Pull battery cable off, back on, relearn idle for 10 minutes and now the idle problem is gone. The trans shifts perfectly including kickdowns at proper speeds, and engine power is fine.

Comparing the MTX TPS and the ATX one shows them as having the same total range swing, it's just that one starts and ends up in a slightly different place from the other, thus affecting the whole range, if you make the one part have the same starting point as the other then no difference at all.

As with other things, no way was I buying a new TB, mine was in excellent shape but for the TPS. Easiest $100+ I ever made.

All of you who were doing this incorrectly simply indexed the manual TPS in wrong as it doesn't match the ATX mounting point, the index is maybe 5-10 degrees off, which gets you into the off idle point of the TPS and screws up the rest of the range.



Last edited by amc49; 03-31-2013 at 09:56 PM.
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Old 03-30-2013, 04:48 PM   #2
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Excellent "work around" on this parts unavailable problem for those who are mechanically inclined!

Detail how the test meter was hooked up for the electrically challenged, and this should be a "sticky" since I doubt the 'automatic" TPS will become avail. again....

As a bonus, it details how to test one for proper function if you add "checking for smooth change in voltage between extremes" to the "test" & "adjust" description.

Kudo's!
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Old 03-30-2013, 05:54 PM   #3
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Pictures needed for this. I've got a TPS collecting dust in my shed.
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Old 03-30-2013, 07:58 PM   #4
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Yeah - pics would be great. I got a lower mileage TB in "The Box" also. Swapping stuff out before trouble appears.

OEM parts on the older cars are beginning to show up as NLA. Fuel injectors are 'no longer available' from the dealer on the 2000. Not sure how different 2000's are different from later years.
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Old 03-31-2013, 02:54 AM   #5
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Yellow wire is VREF or 5 volts, white is TPS output, the 3rd brown wire thinking, well it's a ground at PCM. Power runs from yellow to brown or a power loop from the PCM, the TPS output shorts a variable part of that out to be read by PCM also. You read with KOEO, turn key till indicator lights come on. Problem is getting inside the connector to connect up without damaging it. I found some extremely small wire off a cheap radio, it had only one wire strand inside it. Bared about 2 inches and worked it inside the connector so it was trapped and most likely pinched by the middle pin or white wire when connector snapped together. Use red VOM plus lead on the other end of that and a convenient ground for other black VOM lead. THe yellow VREF can be checked for 5 volts with KOEO and connector disconnected, easy to get inside it then. Plus on the yellow wire and grounded black again.

My factory ATX TPS was not spring loaded one way, the manual one is, that affects nothing.

From everything I've seen, you must make the idle point slightly under one volt even. I started at .40, but have seen some postings showing the early models have trouble with 'insufficient TPS volts' codes that low, plus the upper wide open throttle volts are supposedly supposed to be around 4.84, I was at 4.10 or so. Moved it to get max close to one volt, or the .90 figure mentioned and the wide open moved to 4.62, close enough and it worked fine. It does not have to be exactly the same number, just under one volt and the high up past 4.50 I'm thinking, the PCM has an algorithm to refigure the real world volts when you leave the battery cable off to force relearn. As mentioned it must have very smooth voltage increase through the entire swing, the TB was physically off and just lying on intake so easy enough to check that then.

'Bout time too, I was really getting tired of having to manually forcefeed idle speed to that pig of a car.

Last edited by amc49; 03-31-2013 at 09:50 PM.
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Old 03-31-2013, 03:03 AM   #6
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..........................i have not a clue...........................
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Old 03-31-2013, 04:10 AM   #7
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Thanks for the write up AMC. This may come in handy for me soon.
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Old 03-31-2013, 11:58 AM   #8
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Posted to Mod. Forum for "Sticky" consideration....
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Old 04-08-2013, 10:40 PM   #9
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Old 11-08-2013, 02:41 AM   #10
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Go to page two here and a couple pics with what I basically did, the only difference will be the type of screws you use.

http://forums.focaljet.com/mk-i-tech...roblems-2.html
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