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SVT Performance (2002-2004) The place to chat about any 2.0L SVT DOHC Zetec engine performance, tuning and exhaust related upgrades.

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Old 04-04-2013, 11:32 AM   #11
1turbofocus
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Yes the Harmonic balancer bolt can be reused it is not stretch to yield

Tom
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Old 04-04-2013, 01:18 PM   #12
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any way to see the timing belt with out taking every thing apart?
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Old 04-04-2013, 03:06 PM   #13
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Yes just remove the black plastic timing cover off the cam gears 4 bolts 8mm and you can see the belt over the gears

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Old 04-05-2013, 07:36 AM   #14
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^^ Without breaking the plastic, he may have to remove one of the bolts holding down the passenger side motor mount too.

I remember fighting that a cracking the bottom left of the black plastic.

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Old 04-05-2013, 09:53 PM   #15
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I know with mine I just pulled the motor mount completely out marking the position of it first made it a lot easier to get at the cover bolts
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Old 04-08-2013, 04:04 PM   #16
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I just had my engine carted off to the machine shop. We'll see what they say in a couple of days.
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Old 04-08-2013, 05:31 PM   #17
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I seem to have gotten pretty lucky. I disassembled the head and checked the valves and guides. The damage is 4 exhaust valves and 2 intake valves are bent. There was no excessive play in the guides-in fact they all felt about the same with the wiggle test and had that "smooth" feeling to them.
After thoroughly cleaning the head, I took a set of intake and exhaust valves (don't worry, I numbered them so they will go back in the correct hole) and hydro tested the valve seats and not a single drop of water seeped through the valve seats in an hour.
I'm going to re&re the valves, check the cam clearances and see where we stand.

I'll call Tousley tomorrow with my grocery list and hit up Summit for the head studs.
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Old 04-08-2013, 09:35 PM   #18
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Working on a rebuild from an 02 with 100k miles that snapped the belt also.
With your mileage this almost sems like a time/mileage - whichever is 9 yrs or 80k....
The other thread, right below this one at the moment asks when you changed the belt. It would be good to know from those unfortunate SVTers as to when it broke...
Changing the belt is cheap compared to the aftermath.

So far I am into the rebuild for $400 into the head work (2 valve guides were cracked), $300 valves, $125 gaskets, $25 bolts and something else I am sure to be missing...
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Old 05-16-2013, 01:47 AM   #19
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Yes Silver_SVT, you got very lucky. When i bought a 02 CD Silver SVT from craigslist for $1,500 last year, it had holes in 3 pistons and 6 out of 8 intake valves broken off.
I never took that head to any machine shop because it's scrap, just the cams are good, but yes, you got lucky.

I always tell even to Zetec owners, take a peak at the timing belt once a year or whenever you hear unusual sounds coming from there.

So get the stock head gasket and set of ARP head bolts, they cost more but are reuseable unlike the regular TTY head bolts and good luck.
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Old 05-22-2013, 01:28 PM   #20
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Finally got the car back together over the weekend.
The first thing that I recommend for anyone trying this at home is to make sure you have all the oddball tools for the job: T55 Torx socket for the head bolts, exhaust cam sprocket and blanking plug, inside torx sockets for the cam tower bolts, E18 inside torx socket for the Intake cam sprocket. I also needed either a T50 or T45 for one of the timing cover bolts that I didn't have as well. The E18 and the T55 usually have to be bought separately as they don't come in the typical sets. Also, you should have an adjustable wrench-a larger one to hold the cams as there is a fair bit of torque on the cams and it was not easy to get a non adjustable open end wrench to stay on the cam while breaking the torque on the cam bolts.

Other advice would be when setting the cam timing, make sure to check to make sure that the motor has not rotated off of TDC as I had to loosen everything up and try again as the motor rotated back a bit one time. The other piece of advice is to tighten up both cam sprocket bolts a bit before torquing either down. I wasn't thinking and torqued down the exhaust cam before tightening the intake sprocket and it came out of alignment.
I did get it set properly and was happy to see the cam tool slide into the slots after two engine rotations. Make sure to follow the Ford instructions as I've seen too many threads about throwing codes for the timing.

Other than that, I got rid of the exhaust heat shield as I could not find a way to keep it out of the way or remove it. I took the tin snips to it and got rid of it. With the header unbolted from the head, this is going to be your best chance for replacing the front O2 sensor without having to disassemble the rest of the exhaust to do it. it is a bit tight but can be done-I snipped the wiring clip off of the old sensor so that I could get a box-end wrench on the sensor to get it loose.

While I was waiting on parts, I ported the head-just because. I did most of my work on the exhaust bowls and both the intake and exhaust throats and some unshrouding in the combustion chamber.
I gave all the valves a fresh grind as some of the exhaust valves were pitted. I then did a leak test and everything was sealed. I elected not to change the valve seals, although it would have been cheap insurance and all the valve guides passed the wiggle test.
valve lash (or cam clearance) was right in the middle of the range on the intake side but the exhaust valves were all too tight and required some bucket swapping and some grinding on the valve stems. I had to take as much as 0.18mm off of two of the stems to get them in spec as the buckets I needed to get them in spec are not available in Canada.

My parts list:
4 exhaust valves
2 intake valves
head gasket
exhaust gasket
valve cover gasket
Gates timing belt Kit
new serpentine belt
serpentine belt tensioner
idler pulley
water pump
ARP head studs-torqued to 30-45-60
new motorcraft plugs
Taylor 8.2 mm wires
motorcraft fuel filter
motorcraft front O2 sensor

The car runs much stronger than before-much to do with the regular tune-up parts as anything and a timing belt that isn't stretching but it felt good to feel it start on the first twist of the key and settle into a smooth idle. I'll have to finally get a tune for this thing!
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