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Old 04-02-2013, 10:17 AM   #91
exploring/carolina
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My 2004 ZX3 2.3L Manual Transmission with 110,000 miles, started getting OBD Code 171, one bank too lean & started hearing a hissing sound while the engine is running and for a few seconds after engine shutdown.

Also have a K&N cold air intake system installed for over 100,000 miles without issues.

Found a collapsed & cracked PCV hose behind the intake manifold. Replaced it with a Gates 18423 Toyota heater hose mentioned earlier in this thread. Over one year and 30,000 miles since hose replacement without any issues.
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:42 PM   #92
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Thanks so much for your pics and step dialog. It really helped me with my 2005 2.0 it seems like this was a horrible design but a good exercise in my mechanical prowess! I was able to complete mine in just under 3 hours.
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Old 05-10-2013, 03:14 PM   #93
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I believe the OEM PCV oval hose (were failure occurred) was acting like a bellows during each crankcase vent cycle. Also believe the cycling led to premature OEM hose failure. That's why I used the slightly smaller ID round Gates hose for replacement. Just my 2 cents!
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Old 06-08-2013, 03:22 AM   #94
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I have the same vehicle just newer. It's a 2008 Ford Focus. Is it possible to access the PCV valve from underneath the vehicle? I have a buddy of mine that is a mechanic and wants to help out. He is wondering if it's possible to get it from underneath the vehicle. Maybe take out the oil filter and starter.

Is it possible?
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Old 06-09-2013, 06:55 AM   #95
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I could not get my hand in the area where the PCV hose connects to the PCV valve while the manifold is installed. It would be difficult to do without removing the manifold.

While the manifold is off, it's a good time to replace thermostat and PCV valve, too. I had already replaced the upper & lower radiator hoses before the PCV hose project, but replacing the lower radiator hose on my 2.3L would be much easier when the intake manifold is removed.

Many times when trying a shortcut on my mechanical projects, I end up spending as much or more time on the project compared to doing the project how recommended, not to mention the extra cuts & bruises on my arms & hands by trying the shortcut.

Good luck on your project!
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Old 06-29-2013, 10:25 PM   #96
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Another 2.3L Duratec PCV hose bites the dust

Hello Fanatics. About 3 months ago I bought a 2004 ZTW 2.3L Duratec PZEV with 140K miles on it. For the past 2 months, I’ve had a unique problem with engine stutter only between 35 to 45 MPH & only when barely applying the gas pedal. The problem started and was barely detectable and as time went on (and as Arizona temps got hotter) the problem became more prevalent. This same symptom was covered in a FF thread but the solution was never clearly communicated or reinforced.

While dealing with this problem and reading what to do about it, something more severe has just come up. My PCV Hose is bad. I know it is bad because of what I learned here at FF. I can hear it purge air right after shutting off the engine. Engine stutter is now worse, and sometimes I have been getting an oil/exhaust smell in the cabin while windows are up and AC running. This Foci has no oil leaks anywhere. Why the smell in the cabin? I hope the smelly problem will go away once I get the PCV and hose replaced. Money is tight, so I am replacing the PCV myself. I am not a car mechanic but I was a helicopter mechanic for 8 years.

I have taken the advice here and will also replace the thermostat and top & bottom radiator hoses.

When I reinstall the IM, do I lube the IM seal/gasket? If yes, could you please recommend a product? Found IM bolt torque value earlier in this thread, thank you-> 156 inch pounds torque.

Also, can anyone recommend a lube to use on the inside of the Intake Air Control (IAC) Valve? I had an idle problem and found a very small piece of debris stuck inside it. I later found out how/why/where the debris came from. Anyway, the valve plunger seems VERY DRY and like it needs a lube. My Foci sometimes has high (when cold) RPM starts and I hope a lube here will allow the valve to respond quicker/better.

Ford parts diagram of PCV, retainers and Hose is here

I would like to replace the quarter-inch rubber tubing on and around the IM. I was able to read the spec info off of the existing tubing 3M46-9Y446-BA and –AA. Ford wants too much $ for each piece (about $51 for 4 pieces of tubing). Does anyone know how/where to get this stuff in bulk? I would prefer to buy about 10 feet and cut it to the lengths I need. I am unsure of the exact lengths on 2 of them because the tubes sneak out of sight and behind the IM.

I also wanted to share my Amazon parts list that might help a future Fanatic. I will purchase this stuff in a couple days. Thank you for reading and any replies.
Motorad 512-185 Thermostat - Motorad
Thermostat $29.10
Dorman 46034 PCV Hose Kit - Dorman
PCV Hose (from Amazon) $15.45 – I might get this and the OEM hose and return the one not used.
(from my local Ford dealership) Part# 3S4Z-6758-AA Started at $58.33, talked him down to $44.98
(from Lakeland Ford online) $33.74 + 10.95 shipping
Standard Motor Products V390 PCV Valve - Standard Motor Products
PCV $14.59
ACDelco 24612L ACDELCO PROFESSIONAL HOSE,MOLDED (ACDELCO ALL-MAKES ONLY) -
Bottom Radiator Hose $31.18
ACDelco 22592M ACDELCO PROFESSIONAL HOSE,MOLDED (ACDELCO ALL-MAKES ONLY) -
Top Radiator Hose $35.77

Without this and other FF threads, I would not know how to do this work. Thank you everyone.

FYI - I recently replaced the 2 engine mounts & torque dogbone; spark plugs; rear shocks; front suspension sway-bar links. Planning to replace fuel filter and serp belt soon.

Ignore this Edit: Is this EVAP/PZEV/Battery Cable horse dead yet?

Last edited by Marde; 08-28-2013 at 11:25 PM. Reason: fun stuff added at bottom
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Old 09-18-2013, 06:32 AM   #97
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Has anyone tried this hose they say its better then OEM.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/2006-2012-f...6&filterid=g26

About to tackle this job on a fusion.
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Old 10-09-2013, 12:20 PM   #98
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For anyone attempting to replace the PCV valve on a Duratec, do yourself a massive favor and buy a new retaining ring. I got the intake side of the engine totally disassembled, and the last thing I had to do was remove that black plastic retainer from the PCV valve. Very hard to do without breaking it, which is precisely what I did. It's an eight dollar part and will make your life a hell of a lot less frustrating. Part number for the 2.0 is 1S7Z-6A892-AAA.

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Old 10-09-2013, 09:35 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marde View Post

While dealing with this problem and reading what to do about it, something more severe has just come up. My PCV Hose is bad. I know it is bad because of what I learned here at FF. I can hear it purge air right after shutting off the engine. Engine stutter is now worse, and sometimes I have been getting an oil/exhaust smell in the cabin while windows are up and AC running. This Foci has no oil leaks anywhere. Why the smell in the cabin? I hope the smelly problem will go away once I get the PCV and hose replaced. Money is tight, so I am replacing the PCV myself. I am not a car mechanic but I was a helicopter mechanic for 8 years.
Positive Crankcase Ventilation...in other words, air coming into/out of the crankcase, where the hot oil is. It's venting where your cabin air is coming in, hence the oil smell. Functioning PCV and hose=no more smell.

That's the advantage of fixing a car rather than a helicopter...if you get it wrong, you rarely plunge to a fiery death.
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Old 10-14-2013, 01:00 AM   #100
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Wow, I did it!

So, I used the Toyota hose. The guy at the store gave me the business of it not being pvc and oil and such eating away at it over time. I said lets hope this hot water hose last longer than the 30,000 mile that this PVC one lasted.

I was quite worried about taking all that stuff apart because its my girlfriends cart and I'm no mechanic, so I found a way to replace the hose without removing anything and saved myself $500.

It required me to grind down a pair of long needle nose pliers with a diamond bit angle grinder so they could slip through a small sliver to release the clamp underneath. needless to say it was hell to get the hose off and the new one on. I use the type of clamp that you screw to tighten. It was like a game of operation only if you drop a clamp you need to retrieve it with a coat hanger.

this job plus shopping took 3 hour.
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