2008-2011 Projector Retrofit Guide: Morimoto Mini H1 - Page 4 - Focus Fanatics
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Old 03-24-2013, 10:07 AM   #31
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Let me try to answer everything.

Those lights do look awesome, and it would be SICK on my car. I just wanted it basic for less things that could possibly go wrong. My lights look like they could be stock. I guess....





Anyways, I would scuff the plastic and use an etching primer. The etching primer is for metal and probably plastic. When I did the quarter panels of my old car, I sandblasted them back down to redo them. The sand cut right through the clear and the paint but when it got down to the etching primer that stuff was like fused on and took forever to blast off. Good stuff.

http://www.duplicolor.com/products/selfEtchingPrimer/



Morimoto 3five is 35w and 5five is 55w. That's the only difference. To anyone who hasn't ordered yet if you want maximum brightness go 4300k or 5000k. I noticed a huge difference in brightness from the 6000k to the 4300k I got. I also got the upgraded xb bulbs when I got 4300k.

Here is my 6000k bulbs. They were always bluish.

My 4300k bulbs start off blue for about 15 seconds then go to a very nice white.


plus they still give off a wonderful purple and blue color at the top of the beam because I modded the lens fitment a little bit with some washers.




6000k

4300k




4300k is an obvious win!
Ah thanks so much for the insight on the difference between 4300k and 6000k. I wanted to do the 6000k to match my fog lights but I would prefer the better view you get from the 4300k. Maybe I will split the difference and go with 5000k. There shouldn't be too much viewable light sacrificed when you go up 700k from 4300 to 5000.

I think for the Primer on the duplicolor I am just going to use the CP199 Clear Adhesion Promoter Primer with some 600 grit sandpaper to scuff up the chrome. Most of the duplicolor application tips say the CP199 is the way to go.

Other than that, I just need to order the kit from TRS, by the way the H13 is the relay right?

I think I am going to get the 1/4" 3M window weld, there is about a $9 difference between the 1/4 and 3/8", Thanks for the help tho.
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Old 03-24-2013, 10:37 AM   #32
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Idk, I bought my roll of the 3m stuff from AAP for like $22. Wasn't worried about price but I am not sure how the 1/4 will work. The 3/8 fills the channel perfectly and none squeezes out when you press the lens in. The 1/4 might not be enough. You do not want water getting in, so don't let saving $9 cause you to redo the project!


The relay harness is H13 yes, it just plugs into your oem harness and it's good to go. I wouldn't go above 5000k you will love the lights compared to halogens. It's crazy!

Halogen high beam


4300k high beam



Just a slight difference LOL.

A lot of people come into AAP where I work and try to get better lights and bitch about $30-60 for brighter sylvania bulbs. I explain to them how I spent $270 on a projector retrofit and another $275 on two more headlights. That usually shuts them up!
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Old 03-24-2013, 12:10 PM   #33
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ya you're right about the 3/8" window weld, I would hate to have to redo something because I went cheap. Especially when the total cost of the project is going to be ~$500 when you figure new lights, Lamin-X tint, projector kit, and other misc. stuff. Well I am going to order the kit today and the paint supplies. Should be fun putting it all together. I'll keep you updated.
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Old 03-25-2013, 10:05 PM   #34
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Hey A7, are there screws that hold the black trim behind the lens on? I remember there being screws on the piece but I can't remember how they go on.... or does it just sit behind the lens? Also wondering if you really need those plastic tabs that you heat and bend to the side in order to take the lens off? It seems like they would be pretty useless once you get the window weld back in the channel.

Side note still pretty bummed I have to cut the bars out but I think once I have it all together it will look nice.
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Old 03-26-2013, 09:24 AM   #35
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Hey A7, are there screws that hold the black trim behind the lens on? I remember there being screws on the piece but I can't remember how they go on.... or does it just sit behind the lens? Also wondering if you really need those plastic tabs that you heat and bend to the side in order to take the lens off? It seems like they would be pretty useless once you get the window weld back in the channel.

Side note still pretty bummed I have to cut the bars out but I think once I have it all together it will look nice.
There are 2 or 3 torx bits I think that hold that piece on
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Old 03-26-2013, 11:58 AM   #36
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My Halos @ 5000k came today, Can not wait to install
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Old 03-26-2013, 03:24 PM   #37
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There are 2 or 3 torx bits I think that hold that piece on
Ya I think there are two but I just can't seem to remember how they are attached to the housing. There are no threads that come out of the housing for them to attach to, just empty space between the chrome reflector and the black plastic.

Not that I am assembling them just yet but I was trying to figure it out before I get there.

On a different note, I asked duplicolor customer service if I could use their CP199 clear adhesive promoter for Metalcast and Engine Enamel paint. I thought their response was a bit comical:

Mike,

Thank you for contacting Dupli-Color. We appreciate your inquiry.

The Adhesion Promotor can be used prior to the Engine Enamel and the Metalcast Paint, however, I cannot legally recommend painting your headlights. If you do you are doing so on your own accord and we will not offer any product guarantee for this project.

I hope you found this information helpful. Please email me back if you have any additional questions.

Regards,
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Old 03-26-2013, 03:29 PM   #38
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My Halos @ 5000k came today, Can not wait to install
Did you buy those in February when TRS had a 25% off sale?
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Old 03-26-2013, 10:04 PM   #39
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Ya I think there are two but I just can't seem to remember how they are attached to the housing. There are no threads that come out of the housing for them to attach to, just empty space between the chrome reflector and the black plastic.

Not that I am assembling them just yet but I was trying to figure it out before I get there.

On a different note, I asked duplicolor customer service if I could use their CP199 clear adhesive promoter for Metalcast and Engine Enamel paint. I thought their response was a bit comical:

Mike,

Thank you for contacting Dupli-Color. We appreciate your inquiry.

The Adhesion Promotor can be used prior to the Engine Enamel and the Metalcast Paint, however, I cannot legally recommend painting your headlights. If you do you are doing so on your own accord and we will not offer any product guarantee for this project.

I hope you found this information helpful. Please email me back if you have any additional questions.

Regards,

Had you mentioned you were tearing them apart, putting projectors in and painting the reflectors which would no longer be needed I think the response would be different. I think they might think you are painting the outside of the lights LOL

The adhesion promoter can basically be used for anything. By the way, the metalcast paint will only work over chrome or the metalcast base coat.

Are you painting it with metal cast and using engine enamel clear over it or what?
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Old 03-27-2013, 07:21 AM   #40
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By the way, the metalcast paint will only work over chrome or the metalcast base coat.

Are you painting it with metal cast and using engine enamel clear over it or what?
Thier .PDF on application tips for metalcast says:

Over Bare Plastic
- Desgrease
- Scuff
- Degrease
- Apply 1-2 light coats of CP199 Adhesion Promoter

Doesn't mention anything about a chrome or metalcast base coat.


I am painting the Turn Signal and light bulb chrome blue (metalcast), the iris shrouds will be gloss black (enamel). Metalcast doesn't have a black and their smoke color looked a bit like graphite on the net from the pics I saw. That is why I am using the engine enamel paint.

As for duplicolors response, I think you're right, they probably thought I was painting the lenses.
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