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Old 03-05-2013, 05:40 AM   #11
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always wondered if it will get tree sap off. In fact I need to clay bar my truck before even trying to buff it. its ok to use soap and water misted as a lube, right? or does it destroy the clay?
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Old 03-05-2013, 11:14 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikebontoft View Post
always wondered if it will get tree sap off. In fact I need to clay bar my truck before even trying to buff it. its ok to use soap and water misted as a lube, right? or does it destroy the clay?
Depending on the soap (tons of options there), it can degrade the clay. A bottle of clay lube or quick detailer isn't that expensive so that you should risk it. Clay lube gives you the right amount of lubricity, soapy water may be too slick and take away some effectiveness of the clay.

As for the amount of pressure while claying ... start with hardly any pressure at all. You'll feel a slight drag when the clay is picking up debris, and you'll see it on the clay when you turn it over to look. If you have stubborn tree sap, you can add pressure to see if it improves your results. In the end, if clay won't take it off, like in the case of some tree sap, you will need plan two (alchohol, paint thinner, compound polish, ...).
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Old 03-05-2013, 11:56 AM   #13
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HC, I see your sig says you're a professional swirl remover. Would you think using Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and then Meguiar's Ultimate Polish after a clay job will clean up my swirls?
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Old 03-06-2013, 06:50 AM   #14
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ripto, I've read many great reviews about Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish. Personally I've not used them as I buy Meguiar's Profesional line for bulk reasons. I will say this, use them in the order you've listed, compound first, then polish. If you have areas that don't have swirls, or they are very faint, use only the polish. Then follow up with your favorite sealant/wax.

Take your time. Maybe even doing sections at a time, then taking a days break. Come back another day to do a few more sections. Working by hand is TOUGH!

Use a halogen spotlight/worklight in a garage if possible. It'll show you ALL the flaws.
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Old 03-06-2013, 08:41 AM   #15
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Would I skip the compound just to save on unnecessary work, or another reason?
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Old 03-06-2013, 12:44 PM   #16
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Compounding removes clear coat (your paint). If you don't have severe swirls or scratches, you may be able to remove minor defects with a mild polish, thereby saving your clear coat. One round with compound isn't going to effect your life of the paint significantly, but it's always best to use the least aggressive method possible to acheive your desired results.
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Old 03-06-2013, 07:18 PM   #17
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The UC does say clear coat safe on it. Maybe this one will not remove any.
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Old 03-22-2013, 03:46 PM   #18
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All compounds remove some clear coat. That is what you are doing when "polishing", you are removing and then basically filling in the finer scratches at the end.

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Old 03-24-2013, 08:06 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ripto View Post
The UC does say clear coat safe on it. Maybe this one will not remove any.
Hard to know exactly what is meant by "clear coat safe". It certainly is safe in the regard that it will not damage your clear coat when use correctly. But as with a lot of products, if used incorrectly, they can cause damage.

Because I'm in the middle of remodelling a house, I'll use this analogy ... a heat gun used to remove old paint from wood work could be labeled as "wood safe". If, however, you use it incorrectly, damage can surely be done! You'll burn the house down.

Quote:
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All compounds remove some clear coat. That is what you are doing when "polishing", you are removing and then basically filling in the finer scratches at the end.
Agreed ... the filling of finer scratches is done with your wax or sealant, I might add.
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Old 03-24-2013, 08:29 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by popwarhomie View Post
Use 0000 steel wool for glass.
^This. Be sure to blow any wool shavings off the car before moving on to any other areas as you don't want to grind them into the paint.
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