Radiator fans not working

[FocusRus]

Cyle, do this; take a piece of wire, run from positive post @ battery to one of the female ports @ F2 with the fuse removed....the fans should activate

[cylenotkyle]

Originally Posted by FocusRus

Cyle, do this; take a piece of wire, run from positive post @ battery to one of the female ports @ F2 with the fuse removed....the fans should activate

Ill check back in with results
If the fans don't activate what I do from there?

[FocusRus]

Originally Posted by cylenotkyle

What do you mean?

F2 does not get any voltage until the pcm reads input from CHT that the coolant temp is say 230*....pcm grounds low speed fan relay R16 (I think)
fan activates

[cylenotkyle]

Originally Posted by FocusRus

F2 does not get any voltage until the pcm reads input from CHT that the coolant temp is say 230*....pcm grounds low speed fan relay R16 (I think)
fan activates

In a little less mechanical terms please. I'm more computer savoy and less mechanical.

[FocusRus]

If you run 12 volts from battery to the top of the fuse at location F2, the fan should run. This means that the cooling fan electrical wiring is sound, or good. Did you run the engine until the water temp got to 230 degrees.....only then will the fans engage

[cylenotkyle]

Originally Posted by FocusRus

If you run 12 volts from battery to the top of the fuse at location F2, the fan should run. This means that the cooling fan electrical wiring is sound, or good. Did you run the engine until the water temp got to 230 degrees.....only then will the fans engage

I ran my engine after I replaced the resistor and after about 15 minutes of being idol the temperature gage started to go to the red and the fans didn't kick on.

[FocusRus]

If you disconnect the fan resistor connector, add power to the side that has the green/white wire.....you will have power at fuse 2 (F2).....if you do then the wiring is good

[whynotthinkwhynot]

The accumulator is the place where you bridge the 2 wires. It's located in the passenger fender under the passenger headlight. It looks like a big canister with an electrical connector plugging into the top of it. Unplug that connector, then bridge the 2 points on that connector with some wire, and tape up. That will trick your AC system into thinking you have good pressure. If you don't unplug the compressor, you will KO the compressor.

As far as the test mode, the coolant temp readout is in there. It might not be the exact numbers that I quoted. It will be some number according to the temperature that it is reading at the time. If it was working properly, on a cold engine, it would read very close to the ambient temperature- the temperature of the outside world. If the car is warm when you do this, then it will read whatever the temp is in the engine. When this goes bad it tends to show higher temps than actually exist. Which is why we recommend testing it against readings taken with an infrared thermometer on the upper radiator hose. If you see it jump to a wacky temp like 200 C where your hoses would melt, then you know the sender is bad.

Well... if the temp goes up to red, the fans should be on, so something is wrong between the ECU and the fan wiring.

[cylenotkyle]

Originally Posted by whynotthinkwhynot

The accumulator is the place where you bridge the 2 wires. It's located in the passenger fender under the passenger headlight. It looks like a big canister with an electrical connector plugging into the top of it. Unplug that connector, then bridge the 2 points on that connector with some wire, and tape up. That will trick your AC system into thinking you have good pressure. If you don't unplug the compressor, you will KO the compressor.

As far as the test mode, the coolant temp readout is in there. It might not be the exact numbers that I quoted. It will be some number according to the temperature that it is reading at the time. If it was working properly, on a cold engine, it would read very close to the ambient temperature- the temperature of the outside world. If the car is warm when you do this, then it will read whatever the temp is in the engine. When this goes bad it tends to show higher temps than actually exist. Which is why we recommend testing it against readings taken with an infrared thermometer on the upper radiator hose. If you see it jump to a wacky temp like 200 C where your hoses would melt, then you know the sender is bad.

Well... if the temp goes up to red, the fans should be on, so something is wrong between the ECU and the fan wiring.

So basically I'm unplugging this and putting wire in between it?

[sparkey]

Ok I kinda have the same prob other then both fans only come
On with the ac on OR defrost on any ideas? The cooling fan resistor
And plug to it look ok(not burnt)