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Old 03-07-2013, 08:12 AM   #21
budpln
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hey felix u should do a right up on how u did ur cams i want to do them im very mechanically inclined but im kinda nervous to try this..
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Old 03-07-2013, 11:08 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badazz2010focus View Post
hey bruce can you post up a video of the idle?
It idle's like the stock ones.
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Originally Posted by jugglethese View Post
i thought you had to buy cam gears when you bought cams?Who gave you that thought? If you dont what happens?Nothing.
The idle is very similar to stock. And no you don't have to buy gears to install the cams.
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Old 03-07-2013, 11:10 AM   #23
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there is a stage 2 right did you notice anything in third gear?.....that's a huge "fall on your face"for our cars.
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Old 03-07-2013, 11:34 AM   #24
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there is a stage 2 right did you notice anything in third gear?.....that's a huge "fall on your face"for our cars.
Whats that mean? Theres no lag or hesatation or fall on your face w/ my car. I can get over 90mph in 3rd & it pulls pretty good.
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Old 03-07-2013, 11:41 AM   #25
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Felix- I agree, you should post a write up for the install. My cams should be in any day now and I am eager to get these badboys in!
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Old 03-07-2013, 06:24 PM   #26
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Cam install= The way I did mine. I racked the car, pulled the rf wheel, serpentine belt, part of the inter fender. pull the coil pks, plugs & cam cover. Get the #1 at tdc. You will find the #1 int & exh lobes pointing at each other. Underneath= in front of the axle theres a plug in the cam cover, pull that & insert a pin that screws in & butts against the crank. Up top on the back side of the cams is a slot that is offset, put your cam timing bar into the slots= resting on the head.There is a plug up top directly behind the pass motor mount, pull that & insert a 3/16 drill bit into the hole. This will keep the tensioner from springing back. This is where I messed up= forgot to install the 3/16 drill to hold the tensioner & had to pull the cam cover. Add 'bout 2 more hrs. back up top, I used a tie wrap to tie the exh cam gear to the chain & then put a open end wrench on the cam flats of the exh cam & another wrench on the cam sprocket bolt, holding both, loosen the cam bolt & then loosen the intake. Back at the exh, pull the bolt out & let the chain & sprocket "tie wrapped" hang. Mark the cam caps so you know which direction they go. Loosen the cam caps & loosen the ones pointing down last= more spring pressure. Set the caps & bolts so you know which way the go back in. Pull the exh cam out & then do the same for the intake leaving the cam gear on, when you remove the int. cam. Undue the gear off the int & install on new int cam using lock tight on bolt, finger tighten, then using cam lube to lube up the lobes, install the intake cam & snug the bolts down.Great time look compare the cam lobes w/ the oem wimpy ones. Lube up the exh. lobes & install the exh. cam & snug down the bolts. Put the cam timing bar on the back of the cams & the int & exh lobes on #1 should be pointing towards each other. Install the chain around the int sprocket & then install the exh. sprocket & bolt to the exh. cam, using locktight. Torque down the cam caps to spec in order. Then torque the cam sprocket bolts using the open wrench on the cam flats & a wrench on the cam bolts tighten. Undue the 3/16 drill & install the plug & do the same below. Take a wrench & turn the motor over & then check the lash. It should be with in the cam spec's. Raise the car pull the oil filter & plug let drain & install your inter fender liner & rf wheel/tire, then pour your new oil over the cams. Install the cam cover & plugs & coil pkgs. Good time to install new plugs. Fire it up & let run at 1500 rpm for a little bit. When I installed my cams, I forgot 'bout the cam tensioner & wham, I had to pull the cover off & that added about 2 more hrs. Using Mobil 1 5/20 since new the inside of the motor looked really, really clean. Looking at the cam spec's, they look wimpy compared to what I'm use to looking at. I like the 224-0012 spec's better, but I kept telling myself, This is a DD. They have a stock idle & it pulls really good for what it is. I'm happy w/ them. I'm punching this up from memory over a yr ago. I hope this helps you guy's out. Felixthecat
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Old 03-07-2013, 07:28 PM   #27
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that should help! I am going to try doing this with jackstands in my garage. We will see how I do.
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Old 03-08-2013, 07:59 AM   #28
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I never have that "fall on face" in third either. Weird. Why do some experienced Focus guys say stage 1 cams are barely noticable and not worth it? Where is the change? Power band shifted higher? Lose your low end torque? Would going stage 2 be bad for a DD? Thanks FelixTheCat and others who have actually done cams.
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Old 03-08-2013, 11:30 AM   #29
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I never have that "fall on face" in third either. Weird. Why do some experienced Focus guys say stage 1 cams are barely noticable and not worth it? Where is the change? Power band shifted higher? Lose your low end torque? Would going stage 2 be bad for a DD? Thanks FelixTheCat and others who have actually done cams.
These Crane cams work great for me. These cams have great mid range power torque, great for a DD. They'll spin up to 7100 rpm & have a stock idle. Crower has a step above the stock set= #62550-2 & then their stage 1 set= 62551-2. You'll notice the difference right off idle= 1000+. One look at the oem & crane's lobes say's a lot, like boobies= 34a vs a perky 34c.
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Old 03-08-2013, 01:52 PM   #30
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So the people who said it was barely a difference are lying? I want to add to my top end without losing anything low down.
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Last edited by streetfocus; 03-08-2013 at 01:54 PM. Reason: Typo
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