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Old 01-19-2010, 02:12 PM   #11
tczx3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGeak View Post
Breaker Bar and Socket worked, bolt is loose! I still can't get the lower control arm to pop out OR get the rotor to come off (I feel really stupid, but the thing won't BUDGE!)
Do you have the bolt out of the knuckle? The ball joint end that inserts into the knuckle has a groove that the pinch bolt goes through, so the ball joint won't come out unless bolt is out of knucle.

A prybar carefully positioned between the knuckle and LCA will pop the ball joint out of the knuckle. Remember with the LCA bushings it is always tensioned up. Careful to not damage the dust boot on the ball joint.
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Old 01-19-2010, 02:13 PM   #12
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And the rotor is probably rust welded to the flange. A wack with a DB hammer should free it up.
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Old 01-19-2010, 02:40 PM   #13
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I had the bolt out of the knuckle, it was just a bit stuck. I free'd it with a 4lb rubber mallet giving the arm a few taps.

Thanks again SOOO much for this write up, I have the hub assembly sitting on my table out back right now waitin' to be taken to the shop tomorrow to get new bearings pressed in!

As for the Rotor: An hour of whacking it with a hammer and half a can of PB Blaster did the trick!
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Old 01-20-2010, 02:46 PM   #14
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Well now that the job is 95% finished I thought I'd throw some additional info on here! Here are all the torque specs for reassembly!

Strut Tower Pinch Bolt - 66 ft/lbs
Lower Control Arm Pinch- 37 ft/lbs
Tie Rod End - 35 ft/lbs
Sway Bar Links (optional) 37 ft/lbs
Axel Nut - 214 ft/lbs

Hope that helps!
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Old 01-20-2010, 06:13 PM   #15
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Thanks for adding the torque specs! Glad the info helped!
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Old 11-02-2010, 02:34 PM   #16
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Great write up! I'm picking up a new bearing from the dealer after work, $48 with my discount. I have access to all-data (motor on-line) at work and the procedures for the knuckle then bearing is 14 pages and requires 9 special tools! Haha. I knew this was way off so I came here.
Both of my front coil springs broke (just after the 150k warr ran out, I have Oasis as well), I checked alldata and it was showing to be overly complicated as well but turned out to be the easiest struts I've ever replaced.
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Old 11-02-2010, 06:41 PM   #17
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This was a first-rate write-up. Well done and thank you to tczx3!

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGeak View Post
Wow...how did you EVER get your Strut Pinch Bolt loose? Looks like you managed it with a 3/8" ratchet with a 15mm socket...I'm on my way out to Sears to buy a 15mm 1/2 drive socket and a 18" breaker bar! I've tried WD-40, PB Blaster, Heat, hammer, and just wow...it won't budge. I figure we will see how it holds up against the laws of Physics!!...Breaker Bar and Socket worked, bolt is loose!...
A mechanic's trick that sometimes helps loosen badly rusted bolts/nuts when other methods don't seem to be getting anywhere: try tightening the bolt/nut by about 1/8th turn first, then reversing your ratchet to loosen. Repeat a few times. This approach will help break down the corrosive "welding" in the threads. May sound counterintuitive, but it often works.
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Old 06-26-2011, 09:45 PM   #18
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Just finished doing this one today. Thanks for the writeup. In my case, I also found out that a CV joint had gone bad, so I replaced the axle at the same time. Some tips..

Soak the LCA pinch bolt with Kroil or PB blaster and let it sit before removing

Remove the LCA bolt BEFORE the strut pinch bolt. Once the bolt is out, use a prybar to carefully pop the LCA from the knuckle. This took more time than anything.

Put the new wheel bearing in the freezer overnight to shrink it. It just slid into the knuckle in my case.

Check your wheel hub for straightness using a dial indicator before removal. I suspected mine was slightly bent when i noticed that the inboard brake pad wore at an angle and I had developed a pulsing brake pedal. Sure enough, warped rotor and bent wheel hub face.

So, for me, it was

new axle assembly
new wheel hub and bearing
new brake rotor
new brake pads
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Old 03-04-2013, 01:08 PM   #19
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About to do this. Have a question: do I need just the bearings? On RockAuto I see where they sell the bearing but there is no mention if the ring or anything else comes with it. Amazon sells a kit that includes the hub which I don't believe I need to change. Thanks.
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Old 06-10-2013, 06:10 PM   #20
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Your best bet for bearings would be the old reliable, Timken brand. Ford is OK too, but more costly. Either lasts at least 75K to 100K mi. Anything else is a potshoot. Lots of horror stories about Autozone and various reboxed Asian generics that last 3-6 months. Some kits with hubs are cheap as $50/pair but I could care less about the parts warranty or saving more money....don't want to do this job twice a year lol. Ebay has the complete genuine Timken kits with hub and circlip for about $55 or the Timken bearing alone for about $35. A dealer even with 30% discount will be a lot more and it's likely the same OE mfr. For example, I recently bought Timken bearings for my Chrysler minivan and they had the factory pentastar and Chrysler part# on them.
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