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Old 03-02-2013, 07:57 PM   #11
adam6976
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just weld the mount to the top of the bolt with nice spot weld . An you ever have to take it out agin you'd have to grind ott th spot weld. Good luck on what ever u deside .
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Old 03-02-2013, 08:04 PM   #12
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Well thank for all the advice I'd like to do this but I dont know how to weld nor do I have a welder yet. Which is why I took it to a shop.
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Old 03-02-2013, 08:13 PM   #13
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That's precisely what left handed cobalt drill bits were made for.

The shop you to sounds like the lube monkeys got access to tools while nobody was looking.

Definitely remove the mount to get access, and so it isn't pushing on the remnant and helping hold it in place.

Absolute, worse case scenario:

Grind it flat, have a piece of flat bar stock welded to the mount to make it wider footprint, and it gets a new bolt hole and threadsert into the unibody/frame.
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Old 03-02-2013, 08:23 PM   #14
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Drill will work, but you'll need to get things out of the way for access. Grinding the top flat will let you center punch & drill easier, as well as removing the surface that the welding attempts may have hardened.

It'll take time, but if you work up in sizes to avoid taking out the threads you'll eventually be able to pick out the last half moon shaped piece of bolt that's usually left because the drilling is seldom exactly centered.

If a tap isn't available, a spare bolt of the same size with slots cut lengthwise in the threads makes a good one use thread chaser to clean out the welded in nut.

To avoid rushing it & getting frustrated, remember what you said about this job being worth the whole car! Take breaks with your beverage of choice (grin) and it'll be done before you know it!

Luck!

P.S. - hah! we're all typing at once again...

Last edited by sailor; 03-02-2013 at 08:26 PM. Reason: add
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Old 03-02-2013, 08:26 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adam6976 View Post
just weld the mount to the top of the bolt with nice spot weld . An you ever have to take it out agin you'd have to grind ott th spot weld.
that's not a bad idea. A 13-year old Focus ain't gonna outlive new motor mounts.
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Old 03-02-2013, 08:37 PM   #16
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interesting bit on the stainless welding.

Yeah I don't know how they keep breaking drill bits. You can drill the length of the bolt, and keep opening it up if all else fails. it should collapse in on itself.
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Old 03-03-2013, 12:38 AM   #17
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that was the same bolt that i thought i broke when i did my engine mounts 2 weeks ago. scariest pop ever trying to get that off with a breaker bar. too bad i didn't put any anti seize on it before putting back in ahhah
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Old 03-03-2013, 03:33 AM   #18
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I used to drill holes in a machine shop years ago.

You need the right drill bits and they need to be sharp, and they will get very dull very quick if you don't use cutting oil to lube the bit.

Carbite tip (colbalt will likely NOT work very well) and cutting oil (not motor oil, get cutting oil) and a slow speed to start followed by moderate speed, that will cut through it. Even if the top was hardened by welding. have an assistant continue to drip cutting oil on it while you drill.
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Old 03-03-2013, 03:35 AM   #19
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One other hint - almost always when you drill these it's impossible to get the hole in dead center.

What you do is get the hole started then use a diamond tip bit on a Dremel to widen the hole in the direction it needs to go to center.
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Old 03-03-2013, 08:30 AM   #20
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and why has no one mentioned pulling the fender liner to get at it from the bottom side.
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