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Old 05-12-2012, 10:45 PM   #21
HatWobble
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That's something I didn't even think about. I'll definitely get under there this weekend and do something about that sharp metal edge. That would be really nasty if it cut through to the wire.
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Old 05-12-2012, 10:52 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HatWobble View Post
That's something I didn't even think about. I'll definitely get under there this weekend and do something about that sharp metal edge. That would be really nasty if it cut through to the wire.
Totally! My first stereo install I did I ran the wire through a metal hole with no grommet. Never thought about that, until I took the wire out and noticed that the jacket had been completely sliced open and had scorch marks!
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Old 05-12-2012, 11:00 PM   #23
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^^^ Ditto to this on my first install...way back in the day. While cruising along with tunes blaring, bass just stops. I assumed the amp had just overheated and it would come back on, but it didn't. Luckily, I had installed a fuse near the battery (even though I didn't fully understand why it mattered where it was located). Could have been a really bad day.

I haven't taken a look at the firewall (Sony system in mine), but I've seen a couple of people say that they couldn't find a good place to run their power wire. If it is that bad, you can probably locate a nice place to drill a hole and install a grommet from your local parts store. Just ensure you source out your grommet before chucking up your drill...
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Old 05-13-2012, 12:06 PM   #24
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I'm gonna reinforce that power wire today. In the mean time, here is the wiring into the head unit I did on Friday.

You can pull out the wiring harness to make it easier on yourself to sit in the passenger seat while soldering. I cut the wires above the harness (i.e. between the harness and the head unit). I soldered the wires from the head unit into the LOC wires and the speaker wires into the wiring harness, which goes out to the rest of the car. You'll have to strip back some of the black cloth wrap to get at the wires.

Here are the eight wires you need to cut-- it's the four brown and four white ones near my thumb. Note there are other brown and white wires in the harness, but it's those eight together that are the speaker wires. Glad I did my due diligence before I started snipping.



From another thread, here are the wire colors with the pin numbers:

24: LR- brown w/yellow stripe
25: LR+ brown w/green stripe
26: RF- white w/orange stripe
27: RF+ white w/purple stripe

36: LF+ white
37: LF- white w/brown stripe
38: RR+ brown w/white stripe
39: RR- brown w/blue stripe

I soldered the wires together end-to-end. Took me a few hours, but here is the finished product. Looks like a damn mess, but it works. Once I got one of the channels wired up, I turned the car on to test and see if the whole system was working, which, much to my elation, it was. Then I finished the other three channels up.

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Old 05-15-2012, 09:56 AM   #25
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Nice pics, thank you!
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Old 05-15-2012, 10:02 PM   #26
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Last set of photos.

The Rockford amp I purchased comes with a remote subwoofer level knob, which is nice. I ran the cable for this in the car's roof up the left side. Why, you ask, didn't I run it along the floor? Well, my dealership ran a cable for my aftermarket rear sensing system in the same place along the left side of the roof, so I figured I'd just follow their lead. Why reinvent the wheel, right? It's only one small wire.



All I had to do was sneak the wire from the amp behind the same panel I used to conceal my ground wire and from there just tuck it into the rear door molding. I threaded it above the airbag on the side pillar (don't wanna get in the way of that thing) and in the front door molding down to the fuse box. I have the wire coming out of the fuse box and have the sub level knob right under the headlight knob. I mounted the knob with mounting tape, but that's been coming off lately so I may sack up and mount it with the included screws-- just gotta find the time to drill the holes for it.

The final task to complete the install was to install the speakers. I decided to tackle the components first. I won't go into how to remove the doors as there is plenty out there already on this topic.

As Yanner and others have noted, the Polk tweeters fit very well into the stock housing. As pictured below, I pulled one of the plastic tabs off with needle nose pliers (it's the tab that doesn't have a barbed edge) and the Polk tweeter basically snapped into place there. I used a little duct tape to make sure that sucker won't pop out once it's installed. (Don't judge.)





The crossovers fit nicely into that little hole in the door foam. I didn't even use anything to adhere them to the door in there, I just stuck them in. I've already had to reach inside the door and pull them out once to adjust the tweeter level, so I don't think you'll want to mount them unless you end up hearing them start knocking around in there or something.



The two wires that you'll wanna send to the input terminals on the crossovers are both black, which was a big inconvenience, because it makes it impossible to distinguish positive from negative if you lose track (which I did). To figure out which is which again, you'll have to get at the wiring harness you just finished soldering up and use a multimeter to find which pin corresponds to which wire.

The black wires are also too short to reach your crossover if you put it where I put it, so I had to solder on an additional few inches of speaker wire to the black wires to make them reach.

As far as setting the tweeter level, +0dB sounded good to me when testing it out at first, however after driving with it for a while I needed to cut the tweeters to -3dB. As I'm sure you've noticed the rear stock speakers can't reproduce high frequencies for crap so once I got the Polk coaxials in there the whole system brightened up and the tweeter level needed to be cut.

Putting the coaxials in the rear doors was simpler. This time, your wires are colored appropriately so you won't have to figure out your polarity from scratch. However, you will still have the problem of the wire being too short. You could cut the wires inside the door and make them reach, I guess, but I decided to just go the safe route and extend the current wire and route it back into the door.

Oh, PS, the rear left positive wire will be white/green as opposed to the brown/green listed in a previous post.



And, finally, I put the sub in the trunk and hooked it up the amp with a very short speaker cable. Simple.

I guess that's it! The system sounds great, and I haven't noticed any noise or vibration problems yet. If I had to give one word of advice it would be to not underestimate the value of a pair of work gloves when trying to reach into the tricky, tight spots behind panels, under carpets, etc.

Let me know if there's pics of any of the "finished product" you'd like to see.

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Old 05-24-2012, 04:44 PM   #27
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I finally fixed the power wire through the grommet today. And not a day too soon-- the wire was already showing signs of crimping.



Thanks to Pastorius for the tip on making the "X" instead of a simple slit-- it made it WAY easier to thread the wire through.
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Old 02-25-2013, 02:23 AM   #28
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Hi Mr. Wobble...I'm in the process of putting in what looks to be the same Polk components in my front doors, and had a quick question: You mentioned that we want to use the dual black (UGH!!) wires to plug into our crossover's input. I can't seem to get it out of my mind that (to me at least) it seems like we're sending only the signal that our stock mid was receiving, rather than a 'full range' signal. What's your thought on this? I've seen virtually everyone else do this in these forums, so don't feel like we're the only ones who tapped the black duo.

I was thinking that there has to be a place where the tweeter and woofer wires separate from the main speaker wire. That is, unless the headunit is actually powering each of those speakers separately (making it a 6-channel headunit). I kinda think that's doubtful, so I'm just curious if I might be able to somehow tap into the 'daddy wire' and run it into my crossover?
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Old 02-25-2013, 08:32 AM   #29
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Good question. I was worried about this too until I saw how the stock tweeter was wired in-- it had a fixed capacitor wired to it in parallel, with the woofer in series. That capacitor basically functions as the "crossover" in the system, letting only high frequencies in the tweeter and low in the woofer. Once you remove the stock tweeter (and therefore the stock "crossover"), you'll remove any of these filtering effects and should get the full-range signal to your new crossovers. This is barring any filtering that is done at the stock head unit, which may or may not be happening, but there's nothing you can really do about that I suppose.
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Old 03-18-2013, 06:37 PM   #30
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As a professional car audio installer I strongly recommend trying to rerun your power wire down the driver side of your car. You always want to run it down the same side as the batter. You'd also want to go through the grommet not through the outside of it pressing against the metal. there is a plastic cover where the clutch plate would go, i recommend going there to run the wire into the car. Your are much less prone to problems this way. going across the engine you increase the heat against the wire as well as have it rub against the metal between the firewall and grommet.
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