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Old 02-20-2013, 12:10 PM   #1
OrangePeel
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Question Any info on the Cosworth 2.3 280BHP Engine Swap?

Hey everyone! :)

I wanted to start piecing together information and any problems that might arise from swapping the Cosworth 2.3L 280BHP (20001727) Engine into the 2006 MK1.5 ZX3 SES Focus I have.

This is going to take me quite some time to acquire the funds to do the entire swap and purchase. But, basically I wanted to plan out any modifications I make on the vehicle in the mean time to be transferable to the new engine when done.

Obviously there are a lot of parts I would need to rule out completely as there will be Cosworth parts installed on pretty much the entire engine.

The real question is what is there that I can do that they wont be installing automatically.

Also, I'm assuming an engine like this would be race application only and this would not be streetable. If I am able to retain street compliance then that would be nice in that I can drive it to shows and meets.

If not possible then I'll keep this puppy garaged for race days only and buy me a daily after the wife gets our next vehicle.

They install BOLDED, with everything in Underlined Italics is optional.

______________________________________________

Engine Matrix
-2.3 Forged Pistons (CR 13:1)
-Cosworth Piston Ring Pack
-2.3 Forged Connecting Rod Kit
-2.3 Big End Bearings (VP2)
-2.3 Billet Crankshaft

Fuel System
-High Flow Fuel Injectors
-Large Capacity Fuel Rail

Cylinder Head/Valvetrain
-Cosworth Ultra Race Camshafts
-Cam Friction Washer
-Ultra Race Valve Spring
-Cosworth Extrude Honed Cylinder Head
-Heavy Duty Head Bolts

Lubrication System
-Modine Oil Cooler
-High Flow Oil Pump
-Cosworth Stage 2 Dry Sump

Coolant System
-Cosworth Large Pulley Water Pump
-Thermostat (82* C) & Housing

Induction System
-Cosworth Roller Barrel Throttle Assembly
-Carbon Fiber Airbox and Foam Air Filter
-Throttle Position Sensor

Exhaust System
-Exhaust Gasket

Electrical System
-Starter Motor
-Ignition Coil
-Spark Plugs (Temp 7)
-Loom Kit
-ECU (Flashed with Base Calibration)
-Calibration Interface Kit

Auxiliary Drive
-Lightweight Alternator (40 Amp)
-Lightweight Alternator Brackets
-Alternator Pulley (64mm)
-Accessory Drive Belt (1,310 mm)

Miscellaneous
-Lightweight Flywheel
-Clutch
-Spigot Bearing
-Heavy Duty Flywheel Bolt Set
-Engine Lifting Eyes (Pair)
-Cosworth Carbon Coil Cover including Fitting Kit

Engine Assembly and Test
-Cosworth Assembled
-Engine Hot Test
-Full Engine Break-In & Performance Test
-Dispatch Kit


______________________________________________

My idea is that I should focus (no pun intended) on in this order of preference.

-Agressive Suspension
-Wheels & Brakes
-Lightening the Vehicle with Carbon & Lexan
Lexan Windows
Roof
Hood
Hatch
Fenders
Bumpers
-Exhaust?
-Hose Work?
-Competition Radiator?
-Any modifications you guys can think of.


A pretty hefty project to take up on, but time & money are on my side. :)

I'm also looking to see if this would be best as a naturally aspirated engine application or if its possible to Supercharge or Turbocharge the vehicle. I noticed the 13:1 Compression Rating and I would be afraid to do so.

-Tochi


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Old 02-20-2013, 01:57 PM   #2
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You are going to need race gas just to operate a 13:1 motor, and no you won't be able to go forced induction on that kind of compression.

Race motors are miserable on the street.

It sounds like you want to spend a bunch of money, but have no idea what to buy and are trying to get in over your head.
Honestly, I would suggest you buy a finished race car instead of trying to build one.
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Old 02-20-2013, 03:26 PM   #3
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I know about the fuel changes. And I didn't think I would be able to on that compression.

About spending the money, I will be as cost effective as I can. But in the end when you want to build your dream car for your fun, why wouldn't you if you are able to?

And as far as building against buying an already made race car takes all the fun out of it. By doing most of the build between my team and I, we'll learn so much about the car and its caveats and quirks that we can properly and more effectively eliminate problems that arise.

And since I have time to do it all, I'm in no particular rush to get there tomorrow.
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Old 02-20-2013, 03:38 PM   #4
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As elsolo stated this motor would be horrible to drive on the street. If you are wanting comparable power numbers and have the car still remain streetable, I would advise going the route of turboing your car and building up the motor to support higher horsepower numbers. Also, Lexan windows=bad idea...They are not DOT approved and they haze really bad after a couple of months. At least the ones that I have seen.
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Old 02-20-2013, 03:57 PM   #5
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Well I don't necessarily need it to be street compliant, it was more so a nicety of planning it all out.

I'm going more for all out racing than comforts with this.

I believe I'll be getting a new Focus sooner or later that will be a daily.
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Old 02-20-2013, 04:43 PM   #6
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Will this be a "track only" car or is it going to be like a "race inspired" street car. If the latter is true, I would build your motor, throw some forged internals in it and boost it.

Have your looked up the price for a billet crankshaft? Unless you're a trust fund baby, I wouldn't think you would want to spend that money on a crankshaft.
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Old 02-20-2013, 05:15 PM   #7
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A great motor for a Caterham. A lot of cash just to have the Cosworth name. All my tools aren't snap on's, some are matco, mac, cornwell & craftman. I give you credit for doing a na motor.
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Old 02-20-2013, 05:17 PM   #8
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Exactly what class, division, sanctioning body will you be racing this Focus in?

If you want to go "racing" there are rules, very strict ones, about what can and cannot be done. When you ignore the rules before drawing up plans, you build a car that can't be used where it would be competitive, and gets thrown in an open or unlimited division.

1.) Decide exactly what type of racing you want to do
2.) See what the winners in that class are using to win
3.) Add up the build cost for a car in that class, then see that you can buy a completed race car for 1/4 the price.
4.) Decide if you would rather spend the time and money building a car, or use that time and money to go racing.


I am guessing none of this applies to you. It sounds like you want to build a "race car" to play around with, but not actually race. That's what we used to call "hot rodding", making a fun fast car to play with but not be a competitive race car within any actual racing division. That works OK with drag racing, but not very well elsewhere.
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Old 02-20-2013, 08:25 PM   #9
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I would more than likely be racing in the Prepared or Modified Class under the SCCA rules for the Solo Circuit.

This is definitely for Racing and not just for looks or cred. I'm looking to have fun while still being competitive.

One thing I'll be weighing in on are the cost to Power ratio for doing the Cosworth over a Turbocharged 2.0 or 2.3 if I can find a good one locally. Another reason I want to go this route is to be a little different.

Not every day you see a +280 HP producing NA Focus.
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Old 02-20-2013, 08:44 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OrangePeel View Post
I would more than likely be racing in the Prepared or Modified Class under the SCCA rules for the Solo Circuit.

This is definitely for Racing and not just for looks or cred. I'm looking to have fun while still being competitive.

One thing I'll be weighing in on are the cost to Power ratio for doing the Cosworth over a Turbocharged 2.0 or 2.3 if I can find a good one locally. Another reason I want to go this route is to be a little different.

Not every day you see a +280 HP producing NA Focus.
I don't know what your current involvement in that racing class is, but I would highly recommend finding out what the winners are using before reinventing the wheel. Racing is a lot more fun when you don't have the slowest car. Good luck to you whatever you decide.

Not being super familiar with those racing classes, I gave the rules a quick glance. A Focus is probably not going to be competitive at all, racing against 2500# RWD cars with 6.0 liter motors.

Maximum engine displacement:

Forced induction -
3.0L (OHC engines)
4.0L (pushrod engines)
Normally aspirated -
6.0L

Street Mod (SM)

Up to 3.0L, naturally aspirated, OHC engines
Up to 4.0L, naturally aspirated, pushrod engines
FWD: 1800 pounds
RWD: 2200 pounds
AWD: 2400 pounds
Up to 3.0L, forced induction, OHC engines
Up to 4.0L, forced induction, pushrod engines
FWD: 1900 pounds
RWD: 2400 pounds
AWD: 2600 pounds
Up to 3.01 to 6.0L, naturally aspirated, OHC engines
Up to 4.01 to 6.0L, naturally aspirated, pushrod engines
Up to 1.5L, rotary engines, all
FWD: 2000 pounds
RWD: 2500 pounds
AWD: 2700 pounds
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