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Old 02-18-2013, 07:26 PM   #11
mellephants
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Here's what these cars sound like from a roll to 60, completely stock with K&N drop in and airbox lid off...

YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


Airbox lid is back on now, but it was fun for a quick video clip
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Old 02-18-2013, 07:37 PM   #12
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Also I went down to the scale for some rough weight numbers with my daughter, myself, a full tank of gas, and three or four bags of stuff in the car.

All numbers in pounds, and the scale rounds to 20's.

Overall: 3260

Left: 1640
Right: 1580
Front: 1880
Rear: 1360

Front Left: 980
Front Right: 920
Rear Left: 700
Rear Right: 680

These numbers don't sum correctly, though. *shrug*

L+R = 3220
F + R = 3240
FL+FR+RL+RR=2600
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Old 02-18-2013, 10:22 PM   #13
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Sounds like a little racecar in the video!
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Old 02-19-2013, 02:01 PM   #14
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I've begun audio system upgrades.

The battery-top fuse holder from my old car wouldn't fit nicely on under the battery box on the 2012, so I found a plain black plastic fuse holder on Amazon (coincidentally, Littelfuse is located next door to the building I work in).

Littelfuse 298900 ($12.76 on Amazon)


20130218_30D_IMG_0036 by mellephants, on Flickr


20130218_30D_IMG_0037 by mellephants, on Flickr

After reviewing the photos, I noticed the ring terminal on the left isn't seated nicely, so I went out and fixed it. I didn't re-take the pictures, though, because it was dark by then.


20130218_30D_IMG_0040 by mellephants, on Flickr

I just snuck a ring terminal under the OE battery strap, and tucked the 4 AWG into factory wiring channels.


20130218_30D_IMG_0041 by mellephants, on Flickr


20130218_30D_IMG_0042 by mellephants, on Flickr

I still haven't attached it very well, but it doesn't move around too much. I will probably 3M doublesided tape or velcro it to the fuse box lid, unless I think of some better place to hide it. At least it isn't translucent or bright red or anything.


20130218_30D_IMG_0045 by mellephants, on Flickr


20130218_30D_IMG_0052 by mellephants, on Flickr


To get the wiring into the car, I went through the fender/doorsill, then under the carpet on the driver's side. This is the only place the wire is visible, which I am not totally happy with, but it didn't require any modifications or cutting of anything. Instead of punching a hole in the factory grommet for this hole, I just removed it. I will source a replacement grommet to cut a hole in, so the original can be installed if the wire is removed later on.


20130218_30D_IMG_0044 by mellephants, on Flickr
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Old 02-19-2013, 02:15 PM   #15
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Here's a quick picture of the head unit swap. I'm still not totally done with it, so it is just hanging in there with about 3/8 screws right now, because I don't like to overuse the plastic screw clips, but you get the idea.

Head unit swap parts list:

Metra 99-5827B
Metra XSVI-5524-NAV
Metra ASWC-1
Metra 40-EU10


IMG_20130216_100531_GNEX by mellephants, on Flickr
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Old 02-19-2013, 05:07 PM   #16
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You should put a grommet around that wire in door jam. Don't want it to short out
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Old 02-19-2013, 06:50 PM   #17
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small piece of wire loom will cure that...that 4 gauge? any car audio shop will have loom.
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Old 02-19-2013, 10:02 PM   #18
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please, please run that power wire properly through the firewall with a proper grommet. That is an electrical fire waiting to happen. Car looks great though!
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Old 02-20-2013, 06:23 AM   #19
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yeah tell me about it, I'm sure theres a clutch pedal hole if he's automatic.
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Old 02-20-2013, 08:33 AM   #20
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That doorjamb location is fine. It is inspectable every time I enter the car, the insulation is in great condition, the wire cannot interfere with the hinges, the hole has smooth painted edges, and the wire is properly fused.

I have already stated ITT that I will source a grommet. In my experience, a piece of heater hose works better than plastic loom, if I can't find a grommet I like. I will also look a bit more for a firewall passthrough, just so the wire is hidden, but not for safety reasons. I really like this location for safety. There is no engine heat, no movement, no oil, no dirt, no salt, etc... which are all things a lot of installers will subject a wire to by using a hole low on the firewall - the clutch hole on an auto, for example, is normally a terrible spot for those reasons.

If anyone has found a nice spot which does not require slicing factory wiring looms or grommets or drilling new holes, and is high up on the firewall away from heat and contaminants, let me know.
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