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Old 01-27-2013, 02:07 AM   #11
amc49
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What LETTER solenoid did you change? Should be C (or possibly A if manual first not working right).

Solenoids can stick either open or closed and won't show on ohms test.

If band then second would be doing it too. Band is for 2 and 4.
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Old 01-27-2013, 09:05 PM   #12
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I swapped the A & B solenoids (D & E on mazda) no change but i guees its possible theyre both bad since i cant test lockup. Hoping the valve body will fix the issue. I have a pressure tester on order.

Ill keep this thread updated as I trouble shoot the problem.




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What LETTER solenoid did you change? Should be C (or possibly A if manual first not working right).

Solenoids can stick either open or closed and won't show on ohms test.

If band then second would be doing it too. Band is for 2 and 4.
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Old 02-02-2013, 06:05 PM   #13
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Update on the transmission. I installed the new valve body and solenoids and there is no change in fourth gear, it engages but slips as soon as there is a little load added to it. One thing i have also noticed is that the third gear shift is soft and it will slip a little bit before engaging. The two must be related and the only thing they share is the direct clutch housing. I inspected it closly during the rebuild and everything checked out and was within spec. I still dont have a preasure guage so i may give up and take it to a trans shop.

Any ideas?
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Old 02-02-2013, 06:35 PM   #14
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Dang, a junkyard transmission would've been a more cost effective option.
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Old 02-03-2013, 01:02 AM   #15
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Driver side end cover, it supplies the pressure to direct clutch, it wears at the seal ring lands and bushing and leaks off direct and reverse pressure. Common problem on these. Thinking it can be R&Red without yanking trans.............
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Old 02-03-2013, 02:37 PM   #16
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Ill be pulling the rear cover next. I think i can atleast get the cover off without dropping the mounts. If i have to pull the internals ill need to drop the mounts and tilt everything down 4". Ill keep you guys updated.
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Old 02-08-2013, 08:34 PM   #17
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Finally got the rear cover pulled and it is badly worn and definately will be replaced. One tech article says to replace the direct and reverse clutch housings when this failure has occured. The direct housing looks ok to me on the seal surface but its hard to tell without a bore guage and specs. I see no reason why the reverse housing should be replaced.

Any thoughts?
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Old 02-08-2013, 09:17 PM   #18
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Whatever ran against the worn surfaces needs fixing, be it bushing or seal rings. Bushings can look fantastic and be dead, they are softer than steel parts. Generally if you change one surface, the other running against it gets changed too. You can often change bushing only and not housing, but you need to be able to install bushing straight and with no damage.
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Old 02-08-2013, 10:20 PM   #19
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Thanks for your input amc. Ill price out all the parts and see if its worth it. I think im mainly inclined to just replace the direct housing since that is where the wear ocurred. The reverse housing bushing will ride on the new cover but im hoping it will be fine.
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Old 02-19-2013, 04:41 PM   #20
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Final update (hopefully)! Installed the new rear cover and the trans works great.

I did not replace the the direct or reverse housing since there was no play in either when installed on the new cover. Ford wants over $300 for new so I decided I inspect them closely and run them.

Vautotrans on ebay sells the rear cover new with a fitting for the Mazda cooler for $75 + shipping incase anyone else runs across this problem.

Biggest bummer of all of this is that I could have saved alot of time and $$$ and just swapped in a new cover. Thankfully we did not pay a mechanic a few $K for this! All said & done we have about $800 in parts including new motor mounts, fluids etc... I probably have about 40+ hours into it.

Hopefully if anyone else experiences a sudden complete loss of 3rd and 4th gear in their 4f27E of Fn4a-el they can check this before pulling the trans completely and rebuilding it.

Thanks for all of your help!
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