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Old 02-04-2013, 05:13 PM   #1
zpellicone
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Information on motor mounts

I wanted to post this for those who were in my situation where I was curious as to what mounts effected what and how easy they were to do. So here we go.

First off, and I know I will get scrutinized for this so I will post updates here, all the mounts used were Duralast/ Anchor mounts from autozone. I checked the dates on all the boxes before I bought them to make sure they weren't sitting for long. All 3 were on the shelf within 6 months. I first changed the passenger mount about a month ago. It helped alot with idle while the car was in park, reverse and neutral as well as some acceleration. It was the hardest to change because the bolt connecting the mount and bracket was a PITA!!!

However I was not satisfied with that, 2 weeks later I changed the lower torque mount. This mount was pretty easy to change, I had it up on my ramps and, even with gravity, I was still able to rock the engine forward enough with a 2x4 to slide it in there. This mount however did not effect much in the way of vibrations. My acceleration improved slightly.

So yesterday I decided to cough up 30 more dollars and change the trans mount. I thought I was outta luck with my vibes at idle in drive bcuz I thought there was no way this mount could cause the vibrations. However I was totally wrong, the new mount was a little thicker so i had to raise the trans a lil to get it on snug but I figure that is why my car runs brand new in all gears! Acceleration is like a new car, no engine shudder through the cabin when I hit the pedal.

So as I said I will update in a few months on the condition of these aftermarket mounts, I just wanted to help those in a similar position who couldnt really afford OEM mounts from motorcraft. Hope this helps someone, sorry for the length . BTW, 2001 zetec ZTS auto with 108k miles.


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Old 02-04-2013, 11:18 PM   #2
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I hate Anchor mounts but I too have seen a couple that seemed to work, that is until the top plate blew out in 3-6 months. That happened to me, the free replacement then vibrated even when new. Done with them. Age of mount means nothing, it is how they are assembled.

The Anchor top plate is barely pressed into the aluminum case, whereas the Ford part has that top edge rolled down inwards so that you have to really work on the top plate to get it out and loose. The Anchor plate comes right out by prying on it, uh, you may find out about that soon enough....................

Better hope it doesn't wreck belt drive when and if plate comes out, they commonly run through the belts on Focus cars to cause further damage. That hydro mount works by the top plate getting beat on by hydraulic action, if not pressed in tight enough it can be knocked right out.

You've made you choice, good luck to you with it...........somewhere somebody's gotta get lucky.
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Old 02-05-2013, 01:27 AM   #3
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zpellicone, amc49 is talking about the passenger mount. The Anchor mounts for the dogbone (torque) and transmission are fine - and incidentally the Anchor transmission mount is identical in height and construction to the Ford transmission mount. If yours was not that means your Ford transmission mount was worn out.

The passenger mount is something else, though. After I replaced the mounts in my Focus this weekend I sliced the Ford passenger mount (which was completely shot) in half and I will be posting a writeup with pictures of how it is constructed. amc49 is quite correct in that the Ford part does indeed have the top edge rolled down inwards - it isn't even a question that the top plate on the Ford mount could be worked on to get it loose because after whoever makes the mount gets done with making it, the top hole is smaller than the casting around the top plate. It would take many tons of press to deform the mount casting to get that plate out.

And it is also true that although the top of the Anchor casting does appear on the surface to be also rolled inwards, one of the mounts I saw at OReilly was -leaking- because the top plate was not pressed all the way down into the mount - so I very much suspect that Anchor does NOT roll the top casting down over the top plate.

Anchor may have copied whatever the Ford mount had done pretty closely but pending actually disassembling one, I suspect they did not copy that rollover. As that is an aluminum casting that is rolled over, for it to actually be manufactured the way the Ford mount is manufactured, meant that a tremendous amount of pressure had to be applied to the mount after everything was installed, to deform the casting in that manner. Castings do not take kindly to being bent, the Ford mount manufacture gets away with it because they are compressing the aluminum, but that adds a pretty expensive manufacturing step so it is really no wonder that the Ford mount is more expensive.

When your Anchor mount blows out, I will gladly pay shipping on it for you to ship it to me as I want to take one apart and post pictures. I've made the same offer to amc49 for him to send me one of the broken ones.

It would actually have been far better for Anchor to REDESIGN that mount. I can think of at least 3 diffferent ways that could have been done which would preserve the vibration dampening and be cheaper to manufacture and would last a lot longer than the Ford mount. But I suspect Anchor took the scammers way out of it - make a part that LOOKS the same but manufactured far more cheaply with critical corners cut - knowing that most of their customers aren't going to take the time to do the research and dig into it on a $45 part.
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Old 02-05-2013, 05:46 AM   #4
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Exactly. My bad, I did mean the pass side mount.

I've seen the inside of two types of Ford mounts, I suspect they mod them in a ongoing effort to make same part better or the same but cheaper to manufacture. The early ones started with the center damper plate screwed down with a nut on a threaded stud, later ones had a big solid rivet and cannot be removed like the nut can. Anchor shortchanges there too with a thin wall hollow rivet that comes loose easily to let the damper plate quit damping and begin to rattle. The hollow rivet has top edge rolled over to retain plate but it is weak and loosens up pretty quickly. Ain't no way is that a lifetime quality part, ignore what they tell you, you will be replacing them from time to time.

Anchor seems to imitate the Ford curved edge top but without the real effect of it, i.e, the top plate locked firmly in place, why they blow out the tops so easily. A copy made to fool the casual eye but without the quality to be durable for a long while. And, yeah, I saw leaking mounts right out of the box several times when I worked at the store.

Have seen a couple of other fluid metering methods inside, they change them at the drop of a hat. I'm not running hydro mounts any more on my two Focus cars, I took one Ford and one Anchor and modded them both to take a rubber donut on top of the stock bowl washer to make a full top and bottom rubber mount, they seem to work pretty well. Problem is, I had rubber on hand to do that, have not found a supply of proper size donuts to do more.

I actually at this time have no broken mounts to be able to send to anyone, sorry. I reused the Anchor one as I said. Others were turned in for warranty, until I got sick of it. The brand is garbage. The other two positions work better, but I've already turned in a dogbone too, the rubber was shredded in one year, not bad for a lifetime part.
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Old 02-05-2013, 08:06 AM   #5
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when you guys say the top plate, do you mean the cover that can pop off? Or the top assembly peice?
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Old 02-05-2013, 02:27 PM   #6
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Do they make soild mounts
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Old 02-06-2013, 02:23 AM   #7
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No. Anchor used to list an 'SR' in front of or after their standard hydraulic mount part number, the SR stood for solid rubber, I tried a good while back to order one but was told it had been dropped and NLA.

No to the plastic cover. There is the snap on cover, a diaphragm to hold the silicone fluid in, a plastic or phenolic metering baffle and then the plate, when plate spits out so do all the other parts. After plate there is a rubberized smaller plate that holds the bottom bowl shaped washer in place, the center rivet or stud holds the bowl washer and middle rubberized plate in place. The middle rubberized washer floats slightly up and down to contact the top plate, that movement when out of shape is what knocks the top plate out.
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Old 02-06-2013, 05:09 AM   #8
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If you have one that fails, be sure to use the warranty. Maybe some day Anchor will realize their mistake and either produce the solid rubber mount again, or fix what problem they have with the hydraulic mounts.

I thumbed my nose at all of them, and now I have solid polyurethane mounts. Which run about $450 for a set for my car, and give me a little vibration at idle kinda like a massage chair. It is much less vibration than the car with bad mounts.

We have vendors that sell poly mounts, but all have a warning: "Race ONLY: causes vibrations". Like I said, it's less than the engine with bad mounts, but it is still there. I guess some people tried to return the mounts because the engine wasn't glass smooth at lights. While driving, it is smooth. I like the more instantaneous transfer of power.
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Old 02-07-2013, 08:59 AM   #9
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aleena, in this engine configuration the motor mounts do more than just connect the engine to the car frame. That particular engine does not have a balance shaft and so it vibrates - a lot - and one of the engine mounts has a vibration dampener integrated into the mount. When it works, it works well. But it does not last more than aboout 80K miles. There are a lot of used Focuses still on the road and few of them have this problem fixed.
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Old 02-07-2013, 09:34 PM   #10
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Amen brother.
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