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Old 01-28-2013, 11:10 AM   #11
Lscman
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Good Morning,

my boyfriend is having to replace his moms alternator on her focus, i know when we worked on mine it was recommended that we not buy non ford manufactured part when dealing with the O2 sensor, is it the same for the alternator? or in that fact any engine parts?

thanks

Zan
The recommendation to stick with factory original parts generally applies to electronic engine management parts and emissions system parts because they affect engine calibration and fuel economy. The O2 sensors are part of that mix.

The alternator and associated battery charge system is definitely not part of the engine management system. If you buy one rebuilt from Ford it will be same as aftermarket except double the cost. Don't get the cheapest possible aftermarket unit though. Notice the warranty...the one's that are short are often not thoroughly rebuilt. I'd stick with AutoZone or Advance Auto or some popular aftermarket supplier. Some of the cheapest rebuilt alternators sold at chain stores are indeed bad news, since they may only be cleaned up higher mile units with little testing and no parts replaced.

I have had excellent experience with lifetime warranty rebuilt alternators and starters from the aftermarket chain stores, specifically Auto Zone and Advance Auto. I find they last long as new Ford parts, generally 150K mi or so. Most have 100% new bearings and rectifiers and the winiding and other parts are fully tested for impedance to ground etc. The factory ford rectifier block uses crimp connections which tend to slowly carbon up and burn open. This is what generally causes the OEM alternators to fail. The aftermarket units are actually superior in that respect.

I'd stay away from the incredibly cheap "new" lifetime units because they are generally inferior asian aftermarket designs using 2nd rate quality parts. They are so cheap, it's really not surprising. I had those fail within months more than once.
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Old 01-28-2013, 05:08 PM   #12
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I know when I sold them even the top of the line 'lifetime' stuff used the lower class non-heavy duty regulators..............
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Old 01-29-2013, 06:42 AM   #13
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I know when I sold them even the top of the line 'lifetime' stuff used the lower class non-heavy duty regulators..............
Visual inspection of a solid state regulation assmbly on a few models of alternators won't provide much insight into the ability of a particular Focus application alternator to last 10K or 200K mi. Practially every alternator uses a different regulator assembly, there are hundreds of styles. The regulator is a control device that does not see high current. As I mentioned, the Ford rectifiier assemblies use a flawed crimp design that is not shared with the aftermarket modular units. The high power power rectifier that can see 100A peak current is what generally faiils, not the control regulator.
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Old 01-29-2013, 12:31 PM   #14
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^^ visual inspection can easily let you Google the markings and then you can pull up the data sheets. You can also usually tell right off the bat if they are using "name" brand silicon manufactures.
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Old 02-02-2013, 01:51 PM   #15
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^^ visual inspection can easily let you Google the markings and then you can pull up the data sheets. You can also usually tell right off the bat if they are using "name" brand silicon manufactures.
My point was you can't do a random sampling of alternators for various models of cars then conclude that Ford Parts rebuilt alternators are better or worse than aftermarket. In most cases, the rectifier and regulation assembly is buried inside the aluminum case and hidden from view. You would need to compare a particular aftermarket reman alternator for a particular application to the original and to the Ford parts reman unit. I am willing to bet that Ford Parts is selling an alternator unit that is rebuilt by an aftermarket outfit, not by Ford OE manufacturing. Furthermore, the OE alternators are not so impressive from a lifecycle perspective. I've had similar luck with aftermarket rebuilds.
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Old 02-02-2013, 07:51 PM   #16
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I used an Autozone replacement on my focus, of course I didn't own the car then. But it's been over 2 years with no problems whatsoever. It was a pain to change though, I had to loosen the motor mounts and jack the engine up some to get the old one out.
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Old 02-03-2013, 08:51 PM   #17
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It is common to fail regulators on these, the diode fail causes field to get bumped up higher since not enough output, regulator dies from overheating trying to do it. Per several major rebuilders when asked for highest fail parts in their 6G rebuilds. I've had a failed regulator on almost every one I've personally rebuilt too.

You can instantly tell the commonly used Transpo F601 from the F601HD (heavy duty) regulator since they are stamped with part number on them. On Focus you can read which one is in alt by use of a small flashlight and looking up in cooling grille to regulator face. Yes, more than one 6G regulator, color coded.

I rebuild my own and do use that better rectifier assembly and love it..........I doubt seriously if the field or stator windings ever show much trouble, I certainly haven't found any. I mod the plastic backside bearing retaining 'tolerance ring' so alt can be pulled back apart later without tearing it up and I can reuse it.
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Old 02-04-2013, 05:00 AM   #18
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Windings shouldn't go bad. That would be incredibly rare. Brushes, bearings, regulators, and that should be about it. Now if we had permanent magnets like a one-wire alternator, then we'd have no problems with brushes. We'd be prone to GM problems though.

Thanks for the info on the VRs amc49, I'll have to go double checking mine, it would've been nice if you'd told us non-knowing peeps what colors to look for. Now I'll have to search for the part number.
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Old 02-04-2013, 10:02 PM   #19
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Permag charging systems suck, they can only charge at one rate as adjusted by rpm, the excess charge not used simply bled to ground, they overheat parts more. Motorcycles have hell with them since rpm range so wide. Variable field stuff like 6G on Focus simply moves the field current up and down to vary the charge rate, more dependable even though a little more complicated.

Some VR color code stuff here......we use second type listed I think, or white body with black small cover. Ford OEM numbers at top of the page.

http://www.duboismarketing.com/pages/article.asp?id=18

This page seems to infer that there can be a couple of other colors that will work, they are later versions of same part, look at the BOTTOM of the page, the last 3 listings.............note the Dubois #102062 covers them all.

http://www.duboismarketing.com/xref/6GREG_layout.pdf
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