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DURATEC Ti-VCT Performance (2012-Current) The place to chat about any Duratec 2.0L Ti-VCT engine performance, tuning and exhaust related upgrades.

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Old 02-03-2013, 10:40 AM   #171
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When you remove the airbox lid, you lose the negative pressure in the ducting that leads to the radiator support opening. This will cause your intake to be consuming mainly underhood air. Even with a fabricated shield to emulate the big-name companies, you will still acquire a certain amount of heat-soak.

That being said, I don't think that it is overly detrimental. There will be a bit of cool air forced through the ducting due to the pressure difference of the front of the radiator support and the intake box along with some cooler air that enters around the headlight. I inspected the sealing of the Typhoon when it was on my car for testing and found that there was actually a large amount of area for underhood air to bypass the shield. Just looking at pictures of the Steeda intake I would have to assume the same applies to it as well.

All of that being said, my best recommendation is always to experiment. What works for me and my commute does not necessarily apply to anyone elses. I wanted my power to be lower in the rpm range. This allows me better response and fuel mileage. If I drove in a more 'spirited' manner and was willing to spend more money, I would be sporting a name-brand intake...

I have been toying with the idea of wrapping some of the tract though...
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Old 02-03-2013, 01:16 PM   #172
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dyn085 View Post
When you remove the airbox lid, you lose the negative pressure in the ducting that leads to the radiator support opening. This will cause your intake to be consuming mainly underhood air. Even with a fabricated shield to emulate the big-name companies, you will still acquire a certain amount of heat-soak.

That being said, I don't think that it is overly detrimental. There will be a bit of cool air forced through the ducting due to the pressure difference of the front of the radiator support and the intake box along with some cooler air that enters around the headlight. I inspected the sealing of the Typhoon when it was on my car for testing and found that there was actually a large amount of area for underhood air to bypass the shield. Just looking at pictures of the Steeda intake I would have to assume the same applies to it as well.

All of that being said, my best recommendation is always to experiment. What works for me and my commute does not necessarily apply to anyone elses. I wanted my power to be lower in the rpm range. This allows me better response and fuel mileage. If I drove in a more 'spirited' manner and was willing to spend more money, I would be sporting a name-brand intake...

I have been toying with the idea of wrapping some of the tract though...
like this?
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Old 02-03-2013, 01:22 PM   #173
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Quote:
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When you remove the airbox lid, you lose the negative pressure in the ducting that leads to the radiator support opening. This will cause your intake to be consuming mainly underhood air. Even with a fabricated shield to emulate the big-name companies, you will still acquire a certain amount of heat-soak.

That being said, I don't think that it is overly detrimental. There will be a bit of cool air forced through the ducting due to the pressure difference of the front of the radiator support and the intake box along with some cooler air that enters around the headlight. I inspected the sealing of the Typhoon when it was on my car for testing and found that there was actually a large amount of area for underhood air to bypass the shield. Just looking at pictures of the Steeda intake I would have to assume the same applies to it as well.

All of that being said, my best recommendation is always to experiment. What works for me and my commute does not necessarily apply to anyone elses. I wanted my power to be lower in the rpm range. This allows me better response and fuel mileage. If I drove in a more 'spirited' manner and was willing to spend more money, I would be sporting a name-brand intake...

I have been toying with the idea of wrapping some of the tract though...
Where exactly does the air "come from" with aftermarket intakes such as the steeda? I miss the simplicity of my 13 inch air cleaner sitting atop my TB with an open cowl on my Dakota haha. I was never thinking about vacuums and whatnot. The whole "technology" car thing is a bit new to me, but I'm doing my best to research and learn, primarily from the seemingly infinite knowledge that I receive from FF. anyway, back to my actual question, how does the steeda work?


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Old 02-03-2013, 01:26 PM   #174
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Where exactly does the air "come from" with aftermarket intakes such as the steeda? I miss the simplicity of my 13 inch air cleaner sitting atop my TB with an open cowl on my Dakota haha. I was never thinking about vacuums and whatnot. The whole "technology" car thing is a bit new to me, but I'm doing my best to research and learn, primarily from the seemingly infinite knowledge that I receive from FF. anyway, back to my actual question, how does the steeda work?


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They suck under hood air, just like when taking the top off of the airbox. If there is a heatshield that seals to the hood, then they suck from behind the headlight, which is open to the left front triangle area and lower valance/wheelwell. Any that reuse the factory intake tubes get partial air from the whiskers area.


Looking at my modded airbox, the factory tubes get air from the whiskers, the 3" tube gets air from left triangle, the holes get air from behind the drivers headlight.
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Old 02-03-2013, 02:11 PM   #175
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And what about negative pressure?


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Old 02-03-2013, 02:41 PM   #176
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And what about negative pressure?


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Throttle plate controls manifold pressure.

This pic is of my filter/outerwears. The dirt pattern is from directly over the outlet of the 3" tube. It is definitely getting the airflow to that point, so I have all the negative pressure I need.
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Old 02-03-2013, 03:07 PM   #177
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Hmm interesting, thank you. So does your setup run without a lid then? And you're running the newmission right?


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Old 02-03-2013, 03:29 PM   #178
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Hmm interesting, thank you. So does your setup run without a lid then? And you're running the newmission right?


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Full lid, newmission tube, Torquerules holes, OEM++

I'm thinking about the Green filter with open end too. Someday, when we get tuning, I will dyno this setup.
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Old 02-24-2013, 03:24 PM   #179
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Just did this. Whoever said they did it in 10 min should change their member name to Pinocchio.....lol. It takes that long just to get the tools out and pop the hood. I'd say it takes 30-40 minutes for the average person. Anyways, it should be added that I took the two t-25 screws out on both sides for more room. I didn't see that in the description on the first page and I found it to be helpful. We'll see how everything works/sounds with the new Steeda intake.
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Old 02-24-2013, 08:23 PM   #180
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It took me less than 10.


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