HELP! Engine Surging and Dying at Idle. - Page 2 - Focus Fanatics
Ford Focus Forum
HomeContact UsAbout UsGalleryDiscussion ForumsMarketplace


Go Back   Focus Fanatics > Ford Focus Tech Discussions > General Technical Chat

General Technical Chat This section is for technical discussions relating to general maintenance, electrical issues, engine trouble, and recalls.

Search This Forum | Image Search | Advanced Search    
Ford Focus Tire & Wheels FocusFanatics Merchandise

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 01-21-2013, 05:39 AM   #11
mikebontoft
Toxx
 
mikebontoft's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Fan#: 58647
Location: SLC, UT
What I Drive: 5.9L Grand Cherokee ZJ

Posts: 25,875
FF Reputation: 76 mikebontoft Excellent Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (3)
Don't forget it only jumps immediately after a load with the brake lights. shouldn't be much but perhaps enough that when he lets off the pedal, the alternator is still charging more than it should for that split second.
__________________
SR #127 | '02 Focus SE "Foci" (5.0 RWD - parting) | '90 Mazda 626 GT "Greenie" (2.2L turbo T3/T4 rebuild-sold) | '75 BMW 2002 "Carby" (resto-mod racecar) | '75 BMW 2002 (donor -sold) | '98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9L (lifted and fast) | '99 BMW 328is (alt. daily).
Moderating General Chat Lounge, General Technical Chat, Ford Focus & General Car Chat, and Rocky Mountain Fanatics
mikebontoft is online now  
    Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 01-22-2013, 04:21 AM   #12
Z3T3C
Focus Jr. Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Fan#: 107116
Location: Des Moines, IA
What I Drive: 2000 SE Zetec with ATX

Posts: 29
FF Reputation: 1 Z3T3C Good Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)
I will be looking into the alternator concern, because zapping electronic components is the last thing I want to do. Unfortunately, ATM we can't be without the Focus since my wife's daily driver is in the body shop for collision repair for the next week so she is using the focus while I'm back to driving the F-150. I can see why an increase in power would occur when applying brakes due to power demand for the lights, but I don't think it would cause it to jump that high. Also, I'm sorry but I can't seem to wrap my mind on how an alternator that is over-volting due to a bad voltage regulator but still charging the battery would cause hard starts on warmed-up engine. Why would it need help from the gas peddle in order to start as well as drop in RPMs and begin to surge or chug after the brake pedal is released? This wouldn't seem to be caused by an alternator issue as suggested, because starting the car is battery based not alternator based. You can start and run a car without an alternator on a fully charged battery for about an hour before the battery is out of juice, that's if you don't use lights and power devices. I know the coolant sensor if bad can cause hard starts on a warm engine, but would it also make it run poorly like it is?

Last edited by Z3T3C; 01-22-2013 at 09:59 AM.
Z3T3C is offline  
    Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2013, 10:14 AM   #13
Classic6200
Focus Rookie
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Fan#: 108694
Location: Crestview, FL
What I Drive: 2000 Silver SE

Posts: 10
FF Reputation: 1 Classic6200 Good Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)
I also forgot to mention that I changed the DPFE. Sometimes you encounter multiple problems.
Classic6200 is offline  
    Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2013, 05:51 PM   #14
Z3T3C
Focus Jr. Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Fan#: 107116
Location: Des Moines, IA
What I Drive: 2000 SE Zetec with ATX

Posts: 29
FF Reputation: 1 Z3T3C Good Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)
I have a DPFE go out my grandmother's 3.0L Taurus and that seem to make the car consistently run far more sluggish than what my car doing right now. I don't suspect it to be the case since this issue seems more sporadic, but its worth investigating. Classic6200, when your DPFE went out in your focus was it consistently running poorly it would it come and go and was it more so after the engine was warm? Also, after my wife drove it today, she told me the CEL came on. I pulled the code and it was P0303 for a cylinder 3 misfire. I'm still leaning towards a fuel issue since IMHO a spark issue has been ruled out, but I will report back on what I come up with. Thanks everyone for your suggestions thus far.
Z3T3C is offline  
    Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2013, 06:59 AM   #15
Classic6200
Focus Rookie
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Fan#: 108694
Location: Crestview, FL
What I Drive: 2000 Silver SE

Posts: 10
FF Reputation: 1 Classic6200 Good Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)
The DPFE caused me all types or erratic and intermittant issues. I also had a misfire and ended up changeing out the coil pack with an ACCEL and new 'live wire' plug wires and Bosch plugs. Heat can be a culprit that can change voltages as well as destroy plastic sensors and rubber hoses over time, especially as they get hot. I learned that even if it looked good, I should change it out due to the age of the parts. Along with the PCV valve and hose assembly, I changed both Oxygen sensors and cleaned all the connectors. Total cost was under $150 and now she runs like a stripped ape.

I plan on changeing the thermostate and radiator hoses this spring. My MPG's are around 26-28 pending my lead foot compared to 22-24 before the changes. Hopefully I'm good for another 130K til next problem

Don't forget about vacuum leaks. in my case it was several parts that were causing the problem.

Your misfire code is an electrical system error fault and not fuel related as far as I know. I also thought mine might be fuel related but I am glad I didn't go that route.

Last edited by Classic6200; 01-23-2013 at 07:02 AM. Reason: Added more blah blah blah
Classic6200 is offline  
    Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2013, 06:04 AM   #16
Z3T3C
Focus Jr. Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Fan#: 107116
Location: Des Moines, IA
What I Drive: 2000 SE Zetec with ATX

Posts: 29
FF Reputation: 1 Z3T3C Good Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)
My ISSUE has been SOLVED!!! In fact, it was a fuel issue as suspected but left it alone, aside from changing the fuel filter. The issue: Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor, which is kind of like an electronic fuel regulator for returnless fuel systems. It took me $5 from a boneyard and 20 minutes to swap out the part and she has been running purrfect going on 2 days. New part would have been ideal, but I wasn't going to drop a $125 on a hypothesis. Gotta appreciate the boneyards.

LOL, I was just looking at my thermostat housing the other day and thinking the same thing... next thing on the list... flush, thermostat, hoses, and fill. BTW the Alternator is all good, my values actually have dropped a whole volt while driving after changing out the fuel rail pressure sensor, which I thought was weird. Although when it's time for the alternator it'll also be a good time to proactively change the cylinder head temp sensor.

Hope this helps anyone that may come across this with the same issue. Thanks again for everyone who offered help, I appreciate it and take care.
Z3T3C is offline  
    Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks & Social Networks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:28 PM.


Copyright 2002-2014 FocusFanatics.com. All Rights Reserved : Terms of Use : Privacy Policy : Advertise Information : Site Map

Focus Fanatics Ford Focus Forum offers many fun ways for you to engage with other Ford Focus Owners from across the world. Whether it be about the aftermarket performance modifications, technical how-to's, European tuned suspension or awesome fuel economy similar to the Acura TLX or Fiesta ST. You can find all Ford Focus and Focus ST related information here. Join our Ford Focus discussion forums and chat with local Focus enthusiasts in your area.