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Old 01-08-2013, 12:33 AM   #1
malim
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SPI struck me as well - Rebuild thread

IT IS NUMBER #4!!!!

Well, being part of this community for awhile, SPI finally decided to crap out on me at 130k. I decided to put my mechanical skills to the test and try to rebuild it and hopefully succeed as some of us have with their rebuilts. Since I am from Canada and Headsonly doesn't ship here and to avoid a headache in case anything goes wrong, I am going with my local machine shop. Also, it is much harder to source parts here because swapping engines is the way to go around here without giving them a second chance at life.

So far, I have taken everything apart to find piston #4 chewed up. Cylinder walls look good without any scratches. Cleaned out my intake and found a few peaces there as well as on top of the cylinder.

HUGE THANK YOU goes to WrenchTurnerDave for helping me out a lot so far with all the questions I have. Also thanks to iminhell for answering my question regarding the injector pintle cap.

Here are some of the pics.






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Old 01-08-2013, 12:42 AM   #2
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Since piston #4 is junk, I must replace it but I am not sure about the rod. It looks good and didn't get bend, however there is some binding when I try to move the connecting rod with the piston attached to it. I've soaked it in oil, which helped a bit but not much.

I also noticed, that the wrist pin moves which is not a good sign. What do you guys think, could I just replace the piston in hopes it's the piston causing the binding or do I have to get a new rod? I've already sourced a piston with 1.2mmx1.5mmx3.0mm grooves with rings,bearings and a wrist pin for a good price.

Check out the pictures.




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Old 01-08-2013, 03:00 AM   #3
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If you are talking about piston side pictures then the pin normally moves side to side in piston like that, it is locked into the rod only. Now, if pin moves in rod, then both are junk.

Hard to say on replacing rod. The flat on sides can be checked with a flat edge and pin out to see if bent sideways........
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Old 01-08-2013, 05:27 AM   #4
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I never understand why people wait until their spi focus blows up before they decide to do anything about it when they know of the problem. I reccomend finding a nice used motor, and replace the seats before all of the damage occurs in the first place.
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Old 01-08-2013, 05:57 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Top-Ace View Post
I never understand why people wait until their spi focus blows up before they decide to do anything about it when they know of the problem. I reccomend finding a nice used motor, and replace the seats before all of the damage occurs in the first place.
I'll tell you why. For some it's a daily driver and people rely on the car so they can't have the downtime without the car. Besides, it happens at different intervals, I've always watched the TEMP on the car so I've dropped the seat on a pretty decent mileage which is somewhat understandable.

Why would I buy a whole motor and rebuild the head if I can do it with mine ? The motors that are still alive go for $1000+ with decent mileage. The only thing that changes in my situation is that I have to change the piston and maybe a rod otherwise rebuild would cost the same with or without the dropped seat. I would take that risk any day.
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Old 01-08-2013, 09:42 PM   #6
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Do you need to replace only 4 intake valve seats or the exhaust seats go as well ?
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Old 01-08-2013, 09:57 PM   #7
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As far as I'm aware it's just the intake. Exhaust seats should be hardened because of the heat if I'm not mistaken.

Piston pins are OK, they're the floating style.
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Old 01-09-2013, 05:37 PM   #8
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You mean pressed, floating have clips in the pistons...........floating means BOTH the piston and rod are slipfit.
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Old 01-09-2013, 05:42 PM   #9
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oops yeah
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Old 01-09-2013, 11:47 PM   #10
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Yeah, the wrist pin is pressed in on these ones. No clip.

So what do you guys think ? The fact the wrist pin moves like that, judging by the pictures in post #2, definitely some damage to the pin, but how would I know if my rod is salvagable ?
Press the new piston in and see ?
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