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Old 01-08-2013, 12:48 PM   #1781
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Originally Posted by mishka View Post
Hello all,
I have a 2013 DCT and that was buit in March 2012. I'm wondering if anyone has experienced any of the issues in this model.
I have put 1800 miles on it in the first three weeks (brand new car). A couple of times it has done a couple weird auto-shifts when I was in sport mode: once when I put it into sport mode it reved up to almost redline (instead of 5-6k RPM, at most, like it normally does. I was on a bit of an incline but it was still really weird. Also I have noticed that the gas pedal vibrates a bit more now than when it was brand new. Also, I drive fairly hard, but do what I can to drive normal/save gas.

Other than that (the weird shift, and the more vibrations) I haven't experienced any significant problems.

Does anyone think I should bring it into a dealership to get it checked out or am I probably okay? Should I try reseting my "shifting strategy", or whatever, that you all were talking about?

And (off-topic) when should my first oil change be?

Thanks.
If you are in sport mode and rev the engine to near its redline or downshift at a speed that would exceed the redline, the transmission will shift without your command to protect the engine. This is common with automatic/automated transmissions and may be what happened to you.

The gas pedal is not connected to the engine in the conventional sense; it just send electrical commands to the throttle. So there's no reason why it should vibrate.

You'll get many opinions on the first oil change question. Some think leaving it in until the oil life monitor tells you to change is fine. Others believe an early change at 1 -2,000 miles is good to get out manufacturing/break-in debris. I'm a member of the early-change group but have no hard evidence that suggests it is beneficial or necessary.
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Old 01-08-2013, 12:52 PM   #1782
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The gas pedal is not connected to the engine in the conventional sense; it just send electrical commands to the throttle. So there's no reason why it should vibrate.
Just because its not directly connected to the engine via a physical cable doesn't mean you won't feel vibrations through it as it is bolted to the firewall and the firewall does transmit engine vibration from the subframe through the body and into the pedal assembly.
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Old 01-08-2013, 12:57 PM   #1783
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Originally Posted by suss6052 View Post
Just because its not directly connected to the engine via a physical cable doesn't mean you won't feel vibrations through it as it is bolted to the firewall and the firewall does transmit engine vibration from the subframe through the body and into the pedal assembly.
Yeah I definitely have vibrations through my gas pedal.
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Old 01-08-2013, 05:15 PM   #1784
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Originally Posted by suss6052 View Post
It can't be a March 2012 build and be a 2013 MY, 2013 MY builds didn't start until on or after 7/23/12.

If you floor the accelerator it will repeatedly wind out to 6500 rpm or so, although that's less economical than shifting sooner than this.

Its probably ok, the four cylinder engine does shake a touch and it can be felt through the firewall and the pedal assemblies at times. Sometimes higher octane fuels can smooth it out a bit.

First oil change is up to you, you've already passed 1000 miles, some people do their first change before then, others wait until 5000, just change it before 10k miles or 1 year if you want to keep it within the owner's guide to maintain the warranty.
Hey Suss6052 - thanks for response. Well, it's definitely a 2013 so I must be mistaken about the build date. Where can I find the build date - on the window sticker? And when would you change the oil for first time base on my driving habits I described (I drive it pretty hard imo). Thanks.
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Old 01-08-2013, 05:21 PM   #1785
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dan50 View Post
If you are in sport mode and rev the engine to near its redline or downshift at a speed that would exceed the redline, the transmission will shift without your command to protect the engine. This is common with automatic/automated transmissions and may be what happened to you.

The gas pedal is not connected to the engine in the conventional sense; it just send electrical commands to the throttle. So there's no reason why it should vibrate.

You'll get many opinions on the first oil change question. Some think leaving it in until the oil life monitor tells you to change is fine. Others believe an early change at 1 -2,000 miles is good to get out manufacturing/break-in debris. I'm a member of the early-change group but have no hard evidence that suggests it is beneficial or necessary.
Hey Dan50 - thanks for response. Well here's what happened: I was on a slight incline and I was at less than 3k rpm (I was in 5th gear I believe) and when I put it into sport mode it nearly redlined when it downshifted.. then it auto-shifted up to protect itself like you said. It has never nearly redlined (when put to sport mode) like this before - I've gone to sport mode on an incline previously and it didn't rev nearly that high, maybe 6k rpm at the most.
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Old 01-08-2013, 05:32 PM   #1786
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mishka View Post
Hey Dan50 - thanks for response. Well here's what happened: I was on a slight incline and I was at less than 3k rpm (I was in 5th gear I believe) and when I put it into sport mode it nearly redlined when it downshifted.. then it auto-shifted up to protect itself like you said. It has never nearly redlined (when put to sport mode) like this before - I've gone to sport mode on an incline previously and it didn't rev nearly that high, maybe 6k rpm at the most.
That is a bit odd as the upshift was the transmission correcting itself for the downshift. Well, they say self-awareness is a virtue though I'm not sure that applies to DCTs.

There have been reports here of DCTs doing odd things, but they usually only happen once or go away when the car is restarted. I guess I wouldn't worry about it, but if it occurs again it might be worth a trip to the dealer. At least you'll get a blank stare from the service writer for your trouble...
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Old 01-08-2013, 05:44 PM   #1787
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Apparently, it is. My Focus vibrates and shudders more than any car I've ever owned. And I've owned some real junkers in my day.

Funny thing is, it didn't vibrate and shudder until after a Ford dealership worked on it.

But Ford doesn't care... they 'fixed it', so they now feel entitled to dismiss my concerns and label me a crank.

A couple words of advice to anyone considering contacting Ford 'customer service' on this forum: don't bother. Worse than a waste of time for me... it's been an insulting and frustrating waste of time. They are more interested in keeping dealerships from making 'unnecessary' warranty repairs than in making customers happy.
sorry to hear your experience, man.

From what I read, it varies from dealership to dealership. I guess I am lucky that I did not complain at all. Actually, I did not really have a problem with the clutch. I thought it would be just an update thing. Yet, the dealer took the whole thing apart and found no leak, but a crack on the clutch. So, they decided to replace it. I am waiting for the car now, and hoping that it will make it better (though it was already smooth before).
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Old 01-08-2013, 05:47 PM   #1788
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mishka View Post
Hey Suss6052 - thanks for response. Well, it's definitely a 2013 so I must be mistaken about the build date. Where can I find the build date - on the window sticker? And when would you change the oil for first time base on my driving habits I described (I drive it pretty hard imo). Thanks.


On the bottom of the sticker on the LH door jamb, or to go to www.etis.ford.com and look it up based on the VIN.

On my car it was built 1201204235001, this decodes to 4/23/12, and the 5001 was an internal plant tracking code.

If you drive hard an earlier first change may be warranted.
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Old 01-08-2013, 06:13 PM   #1789
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Originally Posted by suss6052 View Post


On the bottom of the sticker on the LH door jamb, or to go to www.etis.ford.com and look it up based on the VIN.

On my car it was built 1201204235001, this decodes to 4/23/12, and the 5001 was an internal plant tracking code.

If you drive hard an earlier first change may be warranted.
Suss6052 this is my number 1201210226676 . Does that mean it was built in 10/22/12? If so it is indeed a 2013 :) Thanks.
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Old 01-08-2013, 06:18 PM   #1790
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Suss6052 this is my number 1201210226676 . Does that mean it was built in 10/22/12? If so it is indeed a 2013 :) Thanks.
Yes, 1201210226676 would be produced on 10/22/12 at least per the door jamb sticker.

Usually the door jamb sticker and www.etis.ford.com agree, however sometimes the car might not be built exactly on the date shown on the sticker. In this case it probably was.
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