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Old 01-04-2013, 09:32 PM   #21
Lscman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cri33 View Post
http://www.ehow.com/way_5626116_step...oor-latch.html

This seems like a good guide even though there are no pics. :(

The latch mechanism (that operates the rod) and the actuator come out together.

You could even go to the site where Ford mechanics tell you how to do it but that costs $29.00. Pick your poison.
I reviewed the Ford shop manual procedure because my mind was fogged. You may want to buy a $35 used service manual on ebay because it would resolve the mystery. I would never try to service my own car without mfr literature. I don't have the time to waste plus trial and error mistakes can be costly. Oh, about that $29 fee for a mechanic to tell you wnat to do....let me pop that bubble. It's really just some kid in India with unlimited subscription access to on-line repair info. Few of these folks are mechanics. They just cut and paste 5 pages of a 1000 page factory manual for you to read. You already had that summary info. If you have paypal I'll do it for $28 or read below.

The Ford factory shop manual procedure is far more complex and detailed than the procedure on the internet and includes many good pics with descriptions for each part and subassembly. The large black plastic frame assembly called a "security shield" spanning from the bottom to the outer door handle will need to be removed before the latch can be pulled. This anti-tamper hardware keeps idiots with coathangers from breaking into your car and it's shielding your view and thwarting disassembly. You can remove it as a complete subassembly with latch or pull the shield first. Ford tells you to pull the shield first so try that. The complete assembly removal approach is only possible if you've done a few and can work blind. The shield is held to the back of the latch assembly with two very small torx bolts and it's held at the outer door handle and bottom of the door with tabs or screws. Believe it or not, these two torx on the back of the latch are each different size, I'd guess T15 or T20. With shield off, you will then be able to see how to disconnect the two rods.

Now you can see stuff that's hidden which includes the rod between latch and lock cylinder and the rod between latch and outer door handle. Both rods need disconnected inside door at top near outer handle. Now the latch assembly is free, ready to remove.

In case it's not clear, the "actuator" as you called it is simply the inner door handle that you pull on to open the door or lock it and it's associated cable that extends thru the door cavity to the latch. The actuator parts are installed and removed from the door with the latch attached, as a complete system. The actuator cable can be connected or disconnected from the latch assembly once removed from the door.

Also don't forget to connect and disconnect the electrical connector during R&R job if you have power locks.
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Old 01-04-2013, 10:11 PM   #22
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Remove front power lock actuator+ latch mechanism

Now I know what the plastic shield is for. I am going to take another look at the inside of the door and if there is a plastic shield I will just take it in and let the garage do it. I also forgot about the rod that locks the door though I do see the rod that operates the latch. it would be easy to do without an inner door skin but it becomes much more difficult when much of the inside of the door is covered with the sheet metal. Sounds like it is worth the $100 for the shop to do it but the part is $200+ so the total cost is around $300. Ouch. If I could get a new part for $100 I would do that. But I checked OE parts from different web sources and they are around $180. Not that much different from what the garage wants. Either way an expensive repair unless you are able to diy. I am willing to do it if I think I can do it right and save money but I can afford to just take it in....but this sounds more involved than I would like.
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Old 01-05-2013, 05:23 PM   #23
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Power Doorlock problems

I got the whole assembly loose, breaking a black part in the process. Cheap plastic. I also managed to tear a little weatherstripping but I guess that can be mended. Removing the door handle loosens everything up.

But the rod hangs everything up and I don't see any way to remove it while it is in there although I guess it is possible to bend the rod at the top so it can be unhooked from the level mechanism. Maybe that is what I have to do but I need a pair of small vice grips to do it. If it will bend flat to an L I can hook it and probably pull the latch assembly out. But if it breaks then I have to buy a rod too. I also could not figure out how to disconnect the cable from the inside latch. It seems too tight to just undo. I could see how to do it but could not get enough slack in the cable to remove it.

I may just take it in to the garage and let them do it. I think my mechanical ability is pretty fair and I may eventually fix it but how much damage do I do in the meantime. Knowing when to stop and say enough is part of being smart although I never claimed to be bright. It also doesn't help to be working in sort of dark conditions where you have to use a flashlight to look inside. Guess its time to say Uncle.
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Old 01-05-2013, 06:10 PM   #24
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Door actuator problems

Can anyone recommend a good sealant to use on (torn) weatherstipping? Not a whole lot but I would feel better if I could use a recommended one instead of trial and error on this. Don't want water finding its way into the car!
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Old 01-05-2013, 06:13 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cri33 View Post
Can anyone recommend a good sealant to use on (torn) weatherstipping? Not a whole lot but I would feel better if I could use a recommended one instead of trial and error on this. Don't want water finding its way into the car!
I used black rtv on mine , it did the job for me , but theres prolly better stuff out there

Sent from my SPH-D710BST using FF Mobile
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Old 01-05-2013, 06:19 PM   #26
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torn weatherstripping

Thanks..might try that. Guess the smart thing to do would have been to remove THE ENTIRE WATERSHIELD but that would been too smart. Huh.
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Old 01-05-2013, 06:43 PM   #27
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Forget the silicone, the correct stuff to use is 3M strip caulk.
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Old 01-05-2013, 06:53 PM   #28
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Torn weatherstripping

Strip caulking for torn weatherstripping?
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Old 01-05-2013, 07:30 PM   #29
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It's what I would use to reattach a watershield to the door behind the door panel.
If I tore a watershield, I would just use it as a template and cut out a new one, like when I redo the upholstery on an old car.

If it's the soft black rubber weatherstripping, I use the 3M black weatherstrip adhesive to glue it back together and fill the tears and gaps. Lay a piece of wet Saran Wrap over the patch, close the door carefully, come back in the morning and remove the Saran wrap.
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Old 01-05-2013, 07:57 PM   #30
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torn weatherstripping and weatherstripping

My common sense tells me to take it to the garage and let them do it. No telling what else is going to go wrong on this project. I don't even have the assembly out of the car yet. My heart tells me I can do it but that is just my own pride. Sometimes its wiser to let common sense push pride into the background. This may be one of those times. While they are at it they can take care of the weatherstripping. I am sure they know what to use.
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