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Old 01-03-2013, 02:17 PM   #1741
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Could you please provide more detail about the "ole's 5 hard accelerations". I read from one of the previous posts a list of "adaptive driving cycle"... (13 steps of strange things to do, which will take 20-40 mins). Shall I do that? My se is getting the clutch replaced now. Thanks!
It's not necessary for you to do the adaptive driving cycle steps for the TCM to "learn".

The number 5 (as in 5 hard accelerations) is arbitrary and has no real meaning.

The best thing is to do a lot of mixed driving with (at least) an occasional hard acceleration.
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Old 01-03-2013, 02:51 PM   #1742
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It's not necessary for you to do the adaptive driving cycle steps for the TCM to "learn".

The number 5 (as in 5 hard accelerations) is arbitrary and has no real meaning.

The best thing is to do a lot of mixed driving with (at least) an occasional hard acceleration.
Yes the 5 is arbitary, but this has worked twice for me and virtually solved the shuddering problem immediately both times. So I wouldn't brush it off so..... arbitrarily.
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Old 01-03-2013, 03:14 PM   #1743
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Thank you! I will give it a try if that happens.
The adaptive drive cycle is difficult to do given where most of us live: too many stop signs, stop lights, too far from an open highway, etc. so it's doubtful dealers even try. Probably best to just drive the car in a varied way for a few hundred miles. If shuddering develops, then you may want to try the series of hard acceleration runs.

If you really want to do the adaptive drive cycle, get way out in the country, disconnect the battery (negative gound is outside the battery compartment) for a few minutes and go for it.
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Old 01-03-2013, 03:59 PM   #1744
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Thank you guys! I do agree that it's not easy to do the adaptive cycle in my area. So, two options:

1. Drive as I normally do for ~200 miles or till it starts to act abnormal (e.g. shuddering). Then I will give it a few hard accelerations. (I prefer, as it will give the new clutch a little time to fit in.)
or 2. When I get it from the dealer, give it a few hard accelerations, e.g. arbitrarily 5 times. :)

What you guys think?
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Old 01-03-2013, 04:29 PM   #1745
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Originally Posted by cuozc View Post
Thank you guys! I do agree that it's not easy to do the adaptive cycle in my area. So, two options:

1. Drive as I normally do for ~200 miles or till it starts to act abnormal (e.g. shuddering). Then I will give it a few hard accelerations. (I prefer, as it will give the new clutch a little time to fit in.)
or 2. When I get it from the dealer, give it a few hard accelerations, e.g. arbitrarily 5 times. :)

What you guys think?
Yep, no need to try to fix what ain't broken. Only if shuddering or another malady develops try the hard accels or other suggestions.
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Old 01-03-2013, 04:32 PM   #1746
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Yes the 5 is arbitary, but this has worked twice for me and virtually solved the shuddering problem immediately both times. So I wouldn't brush it off so..... arbitrarily.
My main point was that varying amounts of acceleration (including full accel) on a regular basis works best (rather than accelerating hard only after the shuddering starts).

I haven't experienced shuddering since the car was new (in June 2011).

I do believe that more people would be happy with their DCT if they put their foot to the floor on a regular basis.
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Old 01-03-2013, 04:35 PM   #1747
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My main point was that varying the acceleration (including full accel and everywhere in between) on a regular basis works best (rather than accelerating hard only after the shuddering starts).
What is your definition of "best"? And what are you basing that on? I just said that doing the full throttle accels worked perfect for me. Twice. And I didn't do anything else. I assume it also worked for those that recommended it to me last Spring. So it's pretty much a proven result.
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Old 01-03-2013, 04:53 PM   #1748
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What is your definition of "best"?
Best means always trouble free (i.e. smooth clutch engagement with no shuddering).



Quote:
Originally Posted by kam327 View Post
And what are you basing that on?
Having an IDS, being able to reset the adaptive learning, and being able to monitor virtually every parameter of the transmission and clutch operation has taught me a lot about how the DCT really works.
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Old 01-03-2013, 04:59 PM   #1749
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Best means always trouble free (i.e. smooth clutch engagement with no shuddering).

Having an IDS, being able to reset the adaptive learning, and being able to monitor virtually every parameter of the transmission and clutch operation has taught me a lot about how the DCT really works.
Fair enough, guess I just like to provide advice based on direct results I've actually gotten.
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Old 01-03-2013, 05:08 PM   #1750
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I've got a little over 27,000 miles on my car now and today took it to the dealer to have them look at both an ever worsening tansmission shuddering issue and what I think is an upper strut mount on the driver's side that might be loose.

In test drive they were not able to duplicate the problems, but at my request, they removed the aero cover that's under the engine to inspect the tranny bell housing for leaks. I remember seeing a few spots of fluid seepage there when performing the oil change about 5,000miles ago, but it was not anything that "jumped out" at me as a problem. Evidently, upon inspection, they discovered a more substantial seep / leak.

So, the car was worked on all day and will be ready tomorrow mid morning some time (interestingly, they had the transmission seal as well as clutches in stock). I'll make the trip back to the dealer (about 72 miles one way) to get my nugget back. I'm both very excited to discover shifting improvements as well as appreciative for Darling Ford's receptiveness to my chief complaint. As far as the strut clunk, it is intermittent and might have been an ice chunk stuck somewhere up in there (but I doubt it). I'll keep you posted.

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