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Old 12-27-2012, 01:50 PM   #21
JL330
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mac.mogul View Post
Suspension bushings are part of your suspension.

Wheel hop is 100% suspension related. You can do lots of things that will trick you into believing you have gotten rid of wheel hop, but only adjusting/tuning suspension components will have any real effect.

Tires with stiff sidewalls will succumb to wheel hop at a lower threshold than tires with a soft sidewall. Wheel hop is still possible, but your tires are now soft enough that you won't see it. The caveat to soft sidewalls is less responsive handling.

You can change to a stiffer motor mount which keeps the engine from bucking around under hard acceleration/deceleration. In a low-powered car you might not experience wheel hop after changing the motor mount, but start adding power or change to racier clutch/flywheel and you could be seeing wheel hop again even worse than before.

Wider tires actually will help to prevent wheel hop because the larger footprint keeps the tire from losing grip when the geometry of the suspension changes. The problem here is that if you're running high power and wide sticky tires on a stock suspension, you're going to break something.

The only way to get rid of wheel hop and prevent breakage is to adjust/tune your suspension components properly. Under hard acceleration, wheels on independent axles will pull towards each other so a slight amount of toe-out is beneficial.
(A RWD solid axle car like a Mustang will need aftermarket LCAs to get rid of wheel hop [driver mod helps, too])
My mustang doesn't wheel hop but it has a solid axle, not independent. I just can't hook with it and I want new LCAs to help me hook up better. I've gotten a bit more intense with the modding on my mustang than I ever will on the focus though.
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Old 12-27-2012, 05:40 PM   #22
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Smoother throttle application?It sometimes happens to me when its slick out and I am too in too much of a rush.
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Old 12-27-2012, 08:00 PM   #23
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Smoother throttle application?It sometimes happens to me when its slick out and I am too in too much of a rush.
What fun is that?
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Old 01-14-2013, 11:09 PM   #24
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I get wheel hop with TC on. sounds like I'm breaking it. first fwd car
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Old 01-15-2013, 01:34 PM   #25
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I think some people are hearing the engine bouncing around and assuming that its wheel hop. I know when I get the tires spinning and keep it pinned that you can here the stock motor mount failing. I know the MS3 RMM might help but probably won't completely eliminate the issue. From my race experience I also have endured wheel hop under acceleration with a solid rear axle. This makes me think its more of a motor mount issue then a suspension thing.
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Old 01-23-2013, 10:44 AM   #26
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Increase the spring rate and shock bump stiffness to reduce wheel hop, better tires, changing motor mounts wouldn't help at all.

I had my front and rear mounts broken on my civic that I race and still had no wheel hop issues at all.

It is the wheel hop that is causing your motor to buck back and forth.
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Old 01-26-2013, 10:23 PM   #27
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Thought I'd add my bit to the mix lol Coming recently from a tuned stage 2+ Mazdaspeed6, mounts help a LOT when it comes to launching. As mentioned before, softer stock mounts will show issues sooner. I've sheared diff mounts from having a proper suspension but stock mounts. The less your DRIVETRAIN moves/twist during hard acceleration, the less traction loss you will endure. This twisting, unleashing the beast moment will shift weight from one side of the car to another. Tires that have less traction in general, stiffer sidewalls will react to these movements faster. Look how much drag racing tires flex on a launch! Just some of my own experiences lol
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Old 01-26-2013, 10:34 PM   #28
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So yea, there are a couple different factors that affect traction loss. Reducing drivetrain movement is one of the least expensive upgrades one can do to improve putting power to your wheels and improve shifting in both manual and automatics. The MS3 rmm on my MK3 did probably put a bit more to the wheels but improved shifting on the DCT IMHO. It did improve wheel hop but driving on snow and ice now it's hard to gauge haha
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Old 01-28-2013, 07:11 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mac.mogul View Post
Wheel hop is 100% suspension... When it's too soft or poorly aligned, wheel hop happens.

Stiffen the springs, stiffen the bushings, adjust the damping, and keep a slight toe-in alignment. That'll take care of wheel hop.

Tires and engine mounts have nothing to do with it.
AGREED!!!

I have coilovers, and wide tires. The only time I get wheel hop is when I'm beating the crap out of the car. When I take the car to the track the alignment fixes the wheel hop. As in anything you have to give in one area to get in another. Do you want a car that wheel hops or one that is going to chew through tires a little faster? Do you want a car that is going to ride like your on pillows (factory height) or do you want one that is going to carve the canyons (coilovered with 2.75" drop and customer spring rates). The motor mount does nothing for wheel hop. All the rear motor mount does is when the wheels start to hop it keeps the engine from rotating when it is loaded and unloaded very quickly. The noises that most think is the car coming apart is the rear engine mount itself banging on the subframe. When the mount is replaced the engine does not move as much but the wheels will still hop under harsh driving... My thoughts "drive it like you stole it and then fix it when it breaks".
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Old 01-28-2013, 09:52 AM   #30
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Of no importance.....http://www.competitionengineering.co...s/chassis2.asp
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