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Old 11-30-2012, 08:06 PM   #21
GO.army.1969
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You may have a bad master cylinder then ??
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Old 12-01-2012, 06:00 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GO.army.1969 View Post
You may have a bad master cylinder then ??
That could be possible but the good before/bad after almost says that the master is full of air. I'd love to see how much fluid comes out with each pedal cycle. Gotta be air bound.
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Old 12-01-2012, 02:53 PM   #23
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After taking it for a ride i discoverd that the driver front and passenger rear rotor and drum were hot and the passenger front and driver rear were ice cold.
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Old 12-01-2012, 04:03 PM   #24
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That would match the "dual diagonal" nature of the system, It's set up that way so you have 1 front & 1 rear if there is a leak in one half of the hydraulics.

Is the driver front the one you replaced?
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Old 12-01-2012, 05:00 PM   #25
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no i replaced the passenger side front caliper.
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Old 12-02-2012, 11:53 AM   #26
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OOPS - I should have said pass. front....

SO, the one not working right IS the one you replaced....

At this point in a PITA, if it was in front of me I'd start re-checking everything to rule out any "simple" or "stupid' problem before giving up & replacing the master cyl.. (As one prev. poster mentioned, they CAN give up from the exercise of bleeding them but that is more common for older cars)

Possible issues:

Leak at any connection disturbed in the replacement process.

Replacement caliper "jamming up" in some manner so it flexes instead of pumping up properly to press on the pads. Look at it when someone steps on the pedal, this issue is usually obvious when you can watch it working, you'll see it flex & return to it's prev. position instead of only moving SLIGHTLY as pressure is applied. Pads can be "stuck", calipers can not move right on their pins, the list goes on....

Next "odd" one I've seen SHOULD be "obvious", but I HAVE seen it happen. The new caliper COULD be the wrong one! Believe it or not, I HAVE seen a "mirror image" situation where the new caliper was for the wrong side, and when bolted in place the inlet was on top & the bleeder screw on the bottom. This makes it virtually impossible to bleed ALL the air out of the new caliper and is ACTUALLY the most common cause for the issue you are dealing with. It bolts up fine, but just doesn't work right! And in looking for a deeper issue, the "obvious" easily gets missed.

Lastly, buying or borrowing a vacuum or pressure bleeding tool can help in making sure the system is completely bled of air.

Good Luck, let us know how it all turns out!
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Old 12-06-2012, 08:34 PM   #27
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Well its been at the dealer since Monday. They changed the wheel cylinder because they thought that was the problem and it wasn't but they are still charging me for it because they are stating that it was "bad" anyways. They had to contact ford because they could not figure out the problem and after running some test that ford told them to run they came up with the ecu/hcu for the abs being bad. The part itself is 700 dollars and they have never seen one go bad on a focus especially one with only 40k on it. The part will be in tomorrow and so far my bill is up to 1200. They said they will eat it if this isn't the problem and they have no where else to turn if its not.
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Old 12-21-2012, 07:52 PM   #28
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Well almost 3 weeks later and the car is still at the dealer and when i called for an update the other day i was rudely told to not call them they would call me. They say they are on the 3rd ecu/hcu unit for the brakes because each one they get is faulty. Don't know what my next step should be all i know is im done with this local dealership ill travel to another ford dealer for my next focus.
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Old 12-21-2012, 10:02 PM   #29
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Their technicians must be slow.
It sounds about the same as,
"I replaced the fuse three times, and each time I blew. I am out of ideas."
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Old 12-21-2012, 10:04 PM   #30
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http://www.speedwaymotors.com/SSBC-S...Kit,50352.html


This brake pressure gauge kit tells you how much pressure you are getting at each caliper. Includes adapters to 6 common fittings:
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