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Old 11-30-2012, 12:15 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by mitchv View Post
Stock wiring and anything over head unit power scares me. You could run your 12 gauge speaker wire from the amplifier right up to the door jam, tap into the factory wiring, then on the otherside inside the door tap into the factory wiring and run your 12 gauge into the speaker. That way your run of wire would consist mostly of 12 gauge and only a couple inches of stock factory wiring. That would be safe to run 95wpc on and that way you dont have to drill into a brand new 2012.
That is exactly what I did. I've ran close to 300wpc to my front stage this way.

Thanks for chiming in Mitch.
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Old 11-30-2012, 10:17 AM   #32
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In my head that would create a bottleneck at the stock wire? Freemind, you are really running 300 watts RMS this way? If that is the case then maybe I am worrying for nothing.
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Old 11-30-2012, 12:18 PM   #33
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In my head that would create a bottleneck at the stock wire? Freemind, you are really running 300 watts RMS this way? If that is the case then maybe I am worrying for nothing.
Yes I was using one of my old Carvers. That said, there is only about 1 ft. of the OEM wire inline. Yes it does cause more resistance but, it was just fine. Currently I am using the same wire setup on 123 RMS/side.
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Old 11-30-2012, 05:10 PM   #34
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In my head that would create a bottleneck at the stock wire? Freemind, you are really running 300 watts RMS this way? If that is the case then maybe I am worrying for nothing.
not really a bottleneck, Dont think of electricity as a flowing liquid, the wire droping in size like that just increases the resistance a wee bit, probably a hardly noticable amount. Just make sure when you splice into the stock wiring that it is a good connection inside the car and inside the door
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Old 12-01-2012, 12:43 PM   #35
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What color is the factory speaker wire inside the door? I am guessing It is black like at the factory plug that plugs into the factory speaker?
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Old 02-18-2013, 08:32 PM   #36
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Bump. Please Help! Anyone know?
Hey their, I just pulled the mulex on the passangers side it comes out from the door side but what a terd it is. mine is a gen 3 2013 hatch behind the hole the molex is in is a lott of insullation and foam it took a close hanger to get through it and a lot of force if the glove box wood come out it wood be a piece of cake but I couldn't get it out. One thing is for sure this thing is put together really well.
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Old 02-18-2013, 08:36 PM   #37
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Anyone know how to get to the molex plug from the inside of the car?
It comes out from the door side you need a small flat blade knife or screw driver to release the latches on the molex
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Old 02-18-2013, 08:42 PM   #38
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It doesn't screw apart it is a butt seal and has to be released with a flat blade screwdriver or small knife. but be carefull it is easy to break and boy what a mess!
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Old 02-18-2013, 08:54 PM   #39
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No, I ran it at 16ga.

At this point it is totally up to you.

If you do drill it, post up pics and write a tutorial. You get Rep points for that kind of stuff.
You don't have to drill it the best way to go is to use a drimmel and just cut out a small half moon just to the side of the molex for the wire to pass just to the side of the plugg. Just pull the molex out towards the door so as not to damage it. The molex plugg will come out far enough to be out of the way with out splitting the pluggs.
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Old 02-25-2013, 10:43 PM   #40
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I drilled the hole for my speaker wire, lock actuators, and accent lighting, right though the center of the plug. But it was in my 01 LX. I did the same with my 03 ZTW wagon. The LX wasn't hard as I only had a few wires going to the plug. Now power locks or windows. The wagon which had power everything I had to take alittle extra care. Easiest way to drill them is to remove them from the car. The door side is easy. The car side requires getting into the inner body behind the kick panel.

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