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Old 11-30-2012, 05:46 PM   #11
gondorian
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^This^
When you separate the ball joint it is pretty easy to get it some of the way in and think it is good to go. You have to be really sure it is all the way in before you tighten the bolt on the knuckle. You can't even judge very well by looking because the rubber boot on the ball joint covers up where it connects to the knuckle.
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Old 11-30-2012, 06:07 PM   #12
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little update. The place i got my car fixed is like a conglomerate of dealerships. like a bmw chrysler ford jeep thing combined and a dads friend works at the bmw part my car was originally fixed at the chrysler place and thats where it was towed too when this happened. My dads friend met with the head of the service dept at chrysler and he said that they didnt remove the ball joints, which is impossible to not do when you pull the engine and transmission out like they did. So my dads friend brought his mechanic over they talked about it with their mechanics and came to the conclusion it was their fault. So i got a phone call saying they will replace everything that needs to be replaced, fix the bent out front fender (ohh yea Ive got 1 "rolled" fender now). re align the car and if they have to replace my svt front shock
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Old 11-30-2012, 06:14 PM   #13
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That's great. Totally bad service manager though- apparently has no repair experience on FWD cars. I can't think of a single FWD that doesn't require the removal of axles to pull the engine.
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Old 11-30-2012, 06:50 PM   #14
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That's great news Mitch!
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Old 11-30-2012, 08:31 PM   #15
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Great you had some "pull" to get it settled without a major hassle!

Sounds like the initial response was an automatic "deny", that could have resulted in a long back & forth without your help from "cooler heads".

And yeah, if it's the right part & seated completely it CAN'T come out without the bolt coming out first. That's the "safety" in the design, even loose wouldn't let it pull out - the bolt has to be removed from the "groove" in the shaft B4 it can pull out....

Looking back to check your model year, there couldn't be a wrong joint either - since the '05 and up used a LARGER shaft for the joint, it wouldn't fit in your knuckle. If you had an '05 or newer, and an '04 or earlier ball joint was used it MIGHT give enough clearance to pull out if it was loose. Not your issue....
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Old 11-30-2012, 08:40 PM   #16
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Those bolts are also one time use bolts though many have used them more than once. I replaced them on my SVT when I did my clutch cause I didn't want that to happen (was the 3rd or 4th time they were removed and were bent). Glad to hear they are fixing it and owning up to it. It's practically impossible to get the getrag out of the car with the front sub frame on it so they had to have removed it.
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:55 PM   #17
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Mitch I just had my lft. lwer ball joint disconnected. And the fellows are right. The "Clinch" bolt was distorted and bent. Took me three seconds to forget about reinstalling it. NAPA and many part stores can order them or FMC has a service bulletin out advising their line machanics to install new. It's a no brainer. Think about your families safety.
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Old 12-03-2012, 01:00 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coldbear View Post
Mitch I just had my lft. lwer ball joint disconnected. And the fellows are right. The "Clinch" bolt was distorted and bent. Took me three seconds to forget about reinstalling it. NAPA and many part stores can order them or FMC has a service bulletin out advising their line machanics to install new. It's a no brainer. Think about your families safety.
Everytime I remove the ball joint, and I have a few times in the past, I always use a new bolt and torque it to spec. The bolts I use are completely black and thats what the car had on it before going into the shop. The bolt that was on the car when the ball joint fell out was grey So i know the shop did take the time to change the bolt they must of not had the ball joint in all the way
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