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Old 11-30-2012, 01:55 AM   #41
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Forgot to mention that at the end of the test, I hear a module to the left of me in the dash or behind the firewall make a whirring noise for a couple of seconds then shuts off.
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Old 11-30-2012, 05:44 AM   #42
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Same as I said earlier in the thread with the JVC stereo - there is NO interface between the Cruise Control and the stereo. The only thing I can come up with is that there is an interface between the Cruise Control and the brake switch and between the Cruise Control and the brake lights (and no illumination connection between the Focus and the Pioneer radio), so you might check those (and check fuses) if your radio might have impacted them.
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Old 11-30-2012, 08:23 AM   #43
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I know the source, it comes back as: 0 Flashes (no flash after last button is pushed): suspect circuitry or speed control steering wheel switches. I guess I will start with getting a new set of steering wheel switches. I was asking if anyone knew how to remove the airbag but i will just research it. Thanks

All fuses are good
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Old 01-03-2013, 07:06 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreyScorpion View Post
I know the source, it comes back as: 0 Flashes (no flash after last button is pushed): suspect circuitry or speed control steering wheel switches. I guess I will start with getting a new set of steering wheel switches. I was asking if anyone knew how to remove the airbag but i will just research it. Thanks

All fuses are good
If you think the steering wheel switches are bad, they can be tested with an ohm meter using the wiring diagram. All they do is momentarily close or open and apply resistors between certain wires. You will need to disconnect plug coinnection at the column before checking impedance. It can't be done with the ckt normal. Keep in mind that the switches are connected to the cruise system through the trouble-prone clock spring assembly. I would be more suspicious of that flimsy thing.
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Old 03-17-2013, 12:09 AM   #45
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Originally Posted by 6SPD_soul View Post
I just had some issues with my CC and have sorted that out, but I found there is a really slick self diagnostic procedure for the cruise control. You don't need a diagnostic scanner to do this either, just the car. From what you describe I think the cruise control servo (motor with a spool of cable that controls the throttle body for CC) is bad, but this test will tell you for sure where the problem lies. This self diagnostic test will work on all Foci from 00-05, in addition to many other Ford models in those years.

The test is basically this: you're going to be turning the ignition key on and off repeatedly and then hitting the cruise control buttons quickly in a specific sequence, and then the cruise control light will blink repeatedly, and the number of blinks tells you where the fault is. It's easy to do once you get it sorted in your head and you won't mess anything up if you don't get it right the first time.

If it's a manual, don't depress the clutch. If it's an automatic leave it in park. First, turn the ignition to the accessory/run position but don't start it. Press and hold the CC off switch and then repeatedly turn the ignition from run to off and back to run again, you should do this 3 or 4 times. End this sequence with the ignition in the run position and then let go of the off switch, and you should see your CC light blink once, which means it's ready to run the self diagnostic. If it flashes 5 times at this point then it's a faulty speed control module, which is that servo I mentioned above. Quickly after the light blinks (like a second after), you then need to hit the other cruise control buttons in this order, and you will need to hit them fairly quickly for the test to proceed:

1. On
2. Resume
3. Coast
4. Set/accel

The CC light should blink once after each button you hit. Kind of take your time hitting the buttons and it's easier to keep track of the flashes, which is important at the end because you need to count the number of flashes that come after you hit "set". There won't be an immediate flash after you hit "set", there will be a slight delay, and then will come another short series of flashes. This next part is all verbatim (except for the parenthesis) from the Ford guide I'm translating here.

0 Flashes (no flash after last button is pushed): suspect circuitry or speed control steering wheel switches.
1 Flash: Static test passed (cruise control should work)
2 Flashes: BPP (brake pedal position) switch is damaged, circuit is damaged, or the brake or clutch pedal was applied during test.
3 Flashes: Brake deactivation switch is open or circuit is damaged.
4 Flashes: Indicates the speed signal circuit is open or damaged (wheel speed sensors, ETC)
5 Flashes: Suspect circuitry or module.

So I guess try to run the test. It's pretty quick and easy once your thumbs get the button sequence down. Then you should at least have a better idea where the problem is coming from. Post back here with results, I'm curious where the problem is for you. Mine was the brake deactivation switch which I'm putting in soon.
Please sticky this, took me a bit of searching to find, extremely informative.
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Old 03-17-2013, 11:53 AM   #46
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Looks worthy of a spot in the "stickies", thanks for the suggestion!

P.S. - It's been added to the "stickies", Thanks Mikey27

Last edited by sailor; 03-17-2013 at 06:41 PM. Reason: Add
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Old 09-27-2013, 02:46 PM   #47
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Now my cruise control isn't working...I did the static test and got 1 flash, the pedal pulled. When I got to turn on the cruise it won't turn on. Any idea's?
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