Rear hub ass'y replaced: Already going out <5000 miles

[sleepyboy]

Hell yea it is.

[xxMichaelAnthony]

Chilton manual says 173 ftlbs. Also the hub nut needs to be replaced after a few uses.

[whynotthinkwhynot]

I thought he/she said they did replace the hub? I'm doing that on mine in a short while, but I have disc brakes, so .. no big nut to torque, just the 4 that hold the hub on.

[zakkius]

Noted. Thanks again.

[amc49]

175-200 works just fine, the car will never know the difference in 10 pounds at torque that high.

It MUST be close on that range (I use 200) or the bearing will shell out in 5 minutes. Simply getting it 'tight' absolutely will not cut it there. The high torque guarantees the bearings are firmly locked together as one part with axle, lower torque lets the bearings wobble slightly and junk city in minutes.

I use the nut over until I feel it give while pulling up to torque, some last twice, some last more, I haven't replaced them yet because they still pull up tight.

[zakkius]

Alrighty. I'll give it another go and make sure that I torque this one properly (I don't think my friend had a torque wrench available last time). Thanks again.

[G Ford Fan]

When I take the rear drums off to check the brakes, I always tighten them down to the highest setting my torque wrench will read, which is 150 ft-lbs. Yes, the manual does say 180-200 I think. However, I have yet to have any issues on either my 2000 or my wife's 2008 and she has over 90 on her car already.

Just hand tightening them is a no-go. The spec may be more, but 150 feels PLENTY tight enough. Going with the spec won't hurt either.

Just my .02.

[elsolo]

You are also supposed to rotate the brake drum 10 times in the opposite direction while tightening the nut, to avoid damage to the bearing. (per the Ford manual)

[G Ford Fan]

Originally Posted by elsolo

You are also supposed to rotate the brake drum 10 times in the opposite direction while tightening the nut, to avoid damage to the bearing. (per the Ford manual)

the above is 100% correct and I also do just that.

I spin the drum both directions several times as I am torquing the bearing hub nut down.

This helps to seat the bearing properly and is a very important step.

[amc49]

I would consider the fact that rolling drum on the last final tighten means that you are exerting torquing force also into the rear suspension in the form of twistup load, that amount of load will be subtracted from your actual nut torque regardless of what your wrench says. Meaning you won't have full torque there....

From like 75 ft. lbs. on up I have wheel bolted on, car on ground, brakes and engine on and someone standing on brake. The only way to guarantee pretty much full torque on nut itself.