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Old 11-15-2012, 06:38 AM   #1031
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For Daniel.

This is the best picture I could find but it should work alright. All I used was the general two rollers with the clip that snaps in between (obviously don't know what they are called lol). They worked fine but the biggest problem with them is that they still require another handle to open the doors. If I have side compartments again, I'm planning on trying to find another method to hold the doors shut. I just don't know what yet.

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Old 11-15-2012, 07:16 AM   #1032
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thanks. i will figure something out. making a couple compartments in my deck for access to spare/ hold jumper cables/ couple odds and ends..

getting started on it sunday...
finished in like 2 months lol.
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Old 11-15-2012, 07:19 AM   #1033
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Getting started on it sunday...
finished in like 2 months lol.
I've been saying that for over a year now and I'm still not done building. lol
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Old 11-15-2012, 08:06 AM   #1034
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still gotta finish my template to hug the hatch area well..

did you secure the rest of it down (not the side piece, but the horizontal area)?
thinking of getting a couple small L-brackets so it doesnt move around.
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Old 11-16-2012, 06:48 AM   #1035
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Yes and no. On the first build, only the sub box and the side compartment were secured to the car, but everything was all a one giant piece screwed into each other so it couldn't move. However, I don't think it would have done very well in a rollover.

On my current one (still more of an idea that reality yet), I want each section an independent piece that can be added, remove, or altered without having to remove any other parts. With that, I'll need to hook everything down independently and I'm trying to make it strong enough so that nothing will start rolling around inside the car if it goes upside down. Just a precaution that I hope to never test, but I'd rather not get killed by my own build.

I haven't figured out how to secure the bottom part down yet. Still thinking and open to ideas.
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Old 11-16-2012, 08:13 AM   #1036
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i was thinking smaller versions of

to hold it secure to the "floor" of the hatch.

and something like these to "lock" the compartment doors down..

(draw hasp from lowes)
not trying to thread jack.. just offering my thoughts to maybe help you secure yours better...


i wouldn't want to test a rollover either.. but worst case scenario, it would be good to be secured.
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Old 11-16-2012, 03:48 PM   #1037
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Don't worry about thread jacking; I like those ideas.

Are you thinking of bolting that L-clamp to the floor? If I can avoid it, I'm hoping not to put any holes in the floor but I don't know if that will be possible. The back portion can be bolted into the frame bellow the hatch, but I don't know what to do with the front part behind the seat (or where they would be if they were still in the car).

I guess it could be hooked down where the seat hinges screw into the floor.

As for latches on the floor, I've already bought some locks from Home Depot so the floor compartment can be locked down. Don't know how to do the handle yet because I'd love to keep everything flush. If I can't find anything, however, I really like the look of those hasps. I may have to look into those.
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Old 11-16-2012, 04:06 PM   #1038
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Brief update on what I've been playing with lately.



And the switch that will be running these lights. It's the second time I'm rewiring everything (long story which I may retell later lol), but this time should be the last. The top switch controls the + side while the bottom controls the - side (for the door ajar).



Tape is my friend. lol

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Old 11-16-2012, 04:32 PM   #1039
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holy tape batman!!!
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Old 11-16-2012, 04:34 PM   #1040
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this is AWESOME!



looks amazing, how many pods did you use?



so i'vve never seen a switch like this before. it's like a toggle switch, but you can also set it to turn the lights on only when the door is open? fascinating.. where did you find a switch like this? is there a name for it? you're giving me some crazy ideas man. lol


holy tape batman.. haha
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