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Old 11-12-2008, 09:29 PM   #21
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Yeah, because the Mazda 323 is a god send.
Who Watches the Watchmen?
Integument is gross -- it's nothing more than a sack of guts.
Daniel San didn't let the wax dry.

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Old 11-13-2008, 04:51 PM   #22
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^^^^ hahahahahaha
Rest In Pieces 3/29/09
Need sedan parts? PM me

no more ruckus in the fucus
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Old 11-15-2008, 09:24 AM   #23
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I still have an spi
and the 323gtx has driven in over a year
I'm tired of fail cars
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Old 11-19-2008, 12:39 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Als RS8 View Post
know what your getting into its a pain without the right tools
1 cam shafts , lifters and rocker armrs-removal and installation
disconnect the negative cable from the battery
remove the air cleaner intake duct
remove the valve cover
remove the drive belt
remove the flange bolts and remove the fulcrums rocker arms, lifter guide retainer,lifter guides and lifters.Keep components in there originally installed
sequence by marking them with a piece of numbered tape or by using a
suitable sub divided box(such as an egg carton). If the lifters are not marked
with color codes, be sure to mark each lifter so you know which end faces the front of the engine, since you must reinstall the lifters so they rotate in
the same direction they originally did.
remove the ignition coil pack
remove the timeing belt
pass a rode or large screw driver through one of the holes in the cameshfaft
pulleyto lock it and unscrew the sprocket bolt. Remove the sprocket.
remove the two bolts and pull out the camshaft thrust plate.
remve the cup plug from the transaxle end of the cylinder head.
carefully withdraw the cam shaft from the transaxle end of the cylinder head
Installing the camshaft and rocker arms is the reverse as the removal
2 Torque specifications ft lbs
camshaft sprocket bolt 77

cam shaft position sensor 180 in lbs

cam shaft thrust plate to head bolts 89 in lbs

crank shaft damper bolt 88

rocker arm bolt 18


GENERAL type in line four cylinder, SOHC
engine vin code P
displacement 2.0 l (121cubic inches)
bore 3.34 inches
stroke 3.46 inches
fireing order 1342

3 yes
4 always
5 rebuilding an engine is easy if you fallow the repair maneul instructions.

Actually I am going to purchase a rebuilt head with a warranty that has new valve seats to aera specs. I was more talking about rebuilding the block. But found some scratches in the cylinder from the piston breakage. So I found a shop to bore it and assemble it for $240 labor. So maybe a little more power after a bore ! . I already purchased the pistons, rings, and bearings with intent of just doing a simple rebuild myself. So much for that. The only other parts I anticipate them replacing are like the freeze plugs and main seal. This has become more of a cost than I anticipated. The only reason I haven't gone with the suggestion of a used engine from a junk yard is because I don't want more droppage and we decided if we get it all done right and keep it this engine may last 150,000 more. So a good car for years to come. The body is in great shape so why not just keep it.

Anticipated cost -

Pistons, rings, bearings, head - exaust - intake - $250 (Spent)
Rebuilt head $300
Block bore and rebuild $300 max including feeze plugs and main seal
Maybe $60 more for water pump, oil pan, valve cover gasket.
Oh and $15 for a set of head bolts.

So total $925 for a new motor done right!

I still plan on posting pictures if I can get my son to return my camera

Thanks to everyone for your comments and support.
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Old 11-19-2008, 07:47 PM   #25
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Thanks for re posting
top of the evening to ya, aka good luck


Last edited by Als RS8; 12-15-2008 at 09:14 PM.
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Old 11-19-2008, 11:44 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by focusmcfly View Post
Some may have seen my post about the engine taking a dump on my 2.0 2000 spi focus. I decided I want to try and rebuild the engine myself. I might as well since its apart and out. I found the pistons online for under $200 and the head rebuilt with a 2 year warranty on ebay for about $300. I need to know a few things before proceeding.

1. How do you press the rods off and new pistons on ?
2. How much torque do I use when attaching the rod and bearing back on the crank? (Is there anything else I should know here as well)
3. Do I need new bearings?
4. If the cylinders look in good shape do I have to hone them?
5. Is it even wise to attempt a rebuild without experience?

Engine had less than 80,000 miles on it before valve seat fell and killed everything.

Thats about it. I have worked on cars doing various things over the years. But have never attempted a rebuild.




just a little more information on the block its self
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Old 11-12-2012, 12:43 PM   #27
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I'm rebuilding a SOHC 2.0 SPI and have less than complete faith in the specifications provided by our trusty friends at Fel-Pro. Could I get a few second opinions on the torque specifications and end sequence for the Head Bolts? I currently have them all at 44 ft/lbs and will hold sequence until a consensus of the SPI gods has been made. Thank you.
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